IFSC 2018 (Read 57076 times)

GraemeA · May 23, 2018, 03:32:06 pm

Quote from: Fiend on May 23, 2018, 12:14:37 pm

Cheers. I think later on on that problem, one climber pulled on and then just tapped the right hand 2 tape hold with his hand and got called down, and another climber did the same but firmly pressed the same hold with his hand, obviously that was the "hands must be in control" rule in effect. I never knew about the pulling leeway in general though.

Mr Kruder touched with the right hand. He got pulled off, so to speak, and protested saying "I touched it", I told him "Yes but you didn't use it". He didn't complain nor did his team.

Fiend · June 03, 2018, 10:25:55 pm

Just watched Women's from Japan. Good production values (lighting, filming, etc) and the half wood holds on the last problem were a thing of beauty. Good set, W2 in particular, also W4. Good separation too. I wish W3 had been slightly easier because it looked so cool when Akiyo progressed on it, would be nice to see some later moves.

Akiyo is crazy good at the moment. Burl as well as precision. Hope Stasa's back is okay.

M's later.

danm · June 04, 2018, 12:10:18 pm

Michaela was on good form wasn't she? One matched hold away from the finals.....so close!

GraemeA · June 04, 2018, 01:37:05 pm

Quote from: danm on June 04, 2018, 12:10:18 pm

Michaela was on good form wasn't she? One matched hold away from the finals.....so close!

She spent the next couple of hours wandering around screaming "2 seconds" at all and sundry, in that mad, manic but nice Micky kind of way

Will Hunt · June 04, 2018, 01:52:12 pm

Graeme, this has absolutely nothing to do with competition climbing. I just wanted to say thank you. I think this is the first time, in perhaps the last decade, that I've seen someone say "wandering" instead of "wondering" and it has lifted my spirits.

jwi · June 04, 2018, 05:23:30 pm

Mens comp was fantastic. Great finish on the last problem.

Danny · June 04, 2018, 07:36:17 pm

Great comp. Really cool all round.

Steve R · June 05, 2018, 07:23:43 pm

Yeah men's comp was brilliant. Thought Khazanov's commentary was great too, normally end up watching essentially on mute but he really added to it with a lot of genuine enthusiasm. Seemed to mention his own recent win a lot (fair enough I suppose!) but compensated well with some adroitly delivered Boscoe nonsense slap downs.

Sasquatch · June 05, 2018, 08:09:39 pm

Men's was brilliant. Great to see so much shakeup and lack of total dominance by anyone. Obv the Japanese team has amazing depth, but in the finals we've seen so much great variation.

I think that's part of why the women's feel a bit flat. Akiyo is on another level with the rest of the field, Miho is shortly behind, then everyone else. It seems like if Janja was doing all of the comps, maybe it would be a two horse race.

bigironhorse · June 06, 2018, 07:02:22 am

Mens final was probably the best final ive ever watched, really great.

Quote from: Steve R on June 05, 2018, 07:23:43 pm

some adroitly delivered Boscoe nonsense slap downs.

Percy did a good job in the semis too!

Durbs · June 06, 2018, 01:58:48 pm

Great Men's comp - Good Women's comp.

Alex was a great co-commentator - great technical contributions, but the enthusiasm he brought was what's been missing from some of the previous broadcasts. That's why I always liked Finn (Was it Finn?), cheering and whooping with the crowd, with occasional bias.

Anyway - great stuff. Men's problems were ace, I still feel Alexsey would've won loads more on 4+, he always seems to solve things a fraction too late and then drops the last move.

Women's was fun, but still feel the season overall is a little flat with Janja not doing all and Shauna off the boil. Good problems mind.

Fiend · June 07, 2018, 01:08:47 pm

Quote from: jwi on June 04, 2018, 05:23:30 pm

Mens comp was fantastic. Great finish on the last problem.

This! Last two on M4 had me actually gasping with excitement. Good set of dramatic, aesthetic problems to lead to that finish.

I liked the co-commentator too, refreshing direct and fun.

There were a few moments, obviously, where 4+ was still missed.

Fiend · June 07, 2018, 01:10:42 pm

P.S. Still really liking IFSC and these competitions. So good and so inspiring having them to watch.

P.P.S. Why don't they have low-noise fans (the mechanical cooling kind not groupies with thundersticks!) pointing at the stage for better conditions??

gme · June 09, 2018, 11:11:01 pm

Totally unwatchable feed. Looks like the US could do with asking China for a bit of tech help.

highrepute · June 10, 2018, 10:30:06 am

It was jittery towards the end of the men's comp but fine all through the women's for me.

Puccio looking like a more complete climber here than I've seen before from her. Coming out to that last problem that no one had done, knowing if she did it she'd win and flashing it was incredible. Great stuff.

Sasquatch · June 11, 2018, 02:51:14 am

Stream issues aside. Competitors and setters all were amazing again.

Danny · June 11, 2018, 09:16:36 am

Another good comp. Puccio flashing the last problem to win was an amazing moment. This season has been really good overall.

fatneck · June 11, 2018, 10:13:29 am

Only just finished watching the Tokyo round - what a finish!!!! Super stoked for Gabri and Alex's commentary was great! Will get round to watching the Vail round this week...

Fiend · June 20, 2018, 09:38:33 pm

Just caught up on Vail, wow that had some great moments in. More consistent balance of boulders, good blend of styles, nice to see some proper BURL mixed in with the nu-skool. Some of the different methods for hard moves were ace too, always good viewing. And of course the Pooch on W4, I got some palpitations on that! Ws was especially exciting with the competing.

There's a non-skipping catch-up stream here : https://www.olympicchannel.com/en/playback/finals-ifsc-world-cup-boulder-vail/

Graeme, my usual technical question this week is: W2, the swing into the dyno, it looked like Fanny was bumping against the left arete of that alcove, which seemed to be taped off. Did I see that right, and if so is that legit??

Also have the camera man and wayne's world cable dude been beaten with sticks yet??

Fiend · June 20, 2018, 09:39:39 pm

Basically my response to this week, like most weeks is:

, really liking this season.

Fiend · June 27, 2018, 07:58:38 pm

Wait a minute the season is over

Lead soonish tho....

joel182 · June 28, 2018, 03:08:14 pm

Quote from: Fiend on June 27, 2018, 07:58:38 pm

Wait a minute the season is over Lead soonish tho....

One more round - Munich in August? Still, a break of 2 months and a bunch of lead comps in the middle makes it seem very much out of season...

SA Chris · June 28, 2018, 04:26:15 pm

Quote from: Fiend on June 20, 2018, 09:38:33 pm

Also have the camera man and wayne's world cable dude been beaten with sticks yet??

Yep, they were really annoying at first, but seemed to back off a bit later in the competition.

Fiend · June 29, 2018, 02:49:48 pm

Cheers Joel. Odd having that long a delay. Still, nice there's more.

Fiend · July 05, 2018, 08:30:36 pm

In the absence of the usual guru, does anyone have any answer to my question a few posts above about Fanny swinging her body into what looked like a taped off area before a sideways dyno? A friend suggested it would have been clear to the judges that it was impossible to get any benefit from touching that area with her body, still seems a bit of a grey area....