IFSC 2018

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Doug

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Jul 20, 2012
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2018 IFSC Bouldering World Cup provisional calendar:
Day Date Venue Country
Friday 14 Apr 2018 Meiringen Switzerland
Saturday 22 Apr 2018 Moscow Russia
Saturday 06 May 2018 Chongqing China
Saturday 13 May 2018 Tai'an China
Saturday 03 Jun 2018 Hachioji, Tokyo Japan
Friday 09 Jun 2018 Vail USA! USA! USA!
Friday 18 Aug 2018 Munich Germany


In addition there's:
Day Date Event Venue Country
Saturday 11 Mar 2018 CWIF Sheffield UK
Saturday 11 Mar 2018 Asia Cup Hong Kong Hong Kong
Saturday 18 Mar 2018 Studio Bloc Masters 202018 Pfungstadt Germany
Saturday 08 Apr 2018 FISE World Series Hiroshima Japan
Saturday 20 May 2018 Rock Ljubljana 202018 Ljubljana Slovenia
Saturday 16 Sep 2018 IFSC World Championships Innsbruck Austria
Friday 22 Sep 2018 Adidas Rockstars Stuttgart Germany

Will Shauna recover from another finger injury to match Sandrine Levet and Anna Stöhr's achievements by being bouldering WC champion for three consecutive years?

Will Jongchon Chon hold on to his crown?

What young guns will break on to the scene, and will everyone enter in to more lead comps as Olympic training?

Place your bets.
 
Also zone/bonus total is worth more than top attempts.
Which I can kind of understand; Climnber A with 3T 4B beats Climber B with 3T 3B even though B flashed all theirs where A seiged.
Makes the bonus/zone worth more - though will need some more thoughtful route-setting, as often the bonus and the top get done together.

Still want 4+ back though...
 
Doug said:
2018 IFSC Bouldering World Cup provisional calendar:
Day Date Venue Country
Friday 14 Apr 2018 Meiringen Switzerland
Saturday 22 Apr 2018 Moscow Russia
Saturday 06 May 2018 Chongqing China
Saturday 13 May 2018 Tai'an China
Saturday 03 Jun 2018 Hachioji, Tokyo Japan
Friday 09 Jun 2018 Vail USA! USA! USA!
Friday 18 Aug 2018 Munich Germany


In addition there's:
Day Date Event Venue Country
Saturday 11 Mar 2018 CWIF Sheffield UK
Saturday 11 Mar 2018 Asia Cup Hong Kong Hong Kong
Saturday 18 Mar 2018 Studio Bloc Masters 202018 Pfungstadt Germany
Saturday 08 Apr 2018 FISE World Series Hiroshima Japan
Saturday 20 May 2018 Rock Ljubljana 202018 Ljubljana Slovenia
Saturday 16 Sep 2018 IFSC World Championships Innsbruck Austria
Friday 22 Sep 2018 Adidas Rockstars Stuttgart Germany

Yours Days/Dates are all out by one ;)
 
Durbs said:
Also zone/bonus total is worth more than top attempts.
Which I can kind of understand; Climnber A with 3T 4B beats Climber B with 3T 3B even though B flashed all theirs where A seiged.
Makes the bonus/zone worth more - though will need some more thoughtful route-setting, as often the bonus and the top get done together.

Still want 4+ back though...

Will be interesting to see how this turns out. I've often felt like bonuses should come before attempts on tops.

Agree on the 4+
 
Agree on agreeing on the 4+

Still hyped for some serious competition viewing over gin / coffee depending when.
 
bigironhorse said:
What is all this "zone" bollocks? What was wrong with "bonus"?

Thinking about it, it's actually more accurate... As "bonus" tends to imply something extra, which is worth more, so they got the top "and the bonus" sounds better than just getting the top - which it technically was, but 90% of the time you had to get the bonus to get the top so for new viewers *cough Olympic viewers* it makes more sense.

Not sure why "zone" though... Think it's always been called this in the American comps?
 
Meiringen Starter List up (though not finalised yet).

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!type=starters&comp=7128

Great to see Pooch entering.
Megos and Jan which is cool. No Rustam though.

A stronger/larger US team than normal? Olympics momentum building do you think?
 
Durbs said:
Meiringen Starter List up (though not finalised yet).

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!type=starters&comp=7128

Great to see Pooch entering.
Megos and Jan which is cool. No Rustam though.

A stronger/larger US team than normal? Olympics momentum building do you think?
Have we got a large British contingent planned for this year's world cups do you know?
 
UK squad now submitted:

Women:
COXSEY Shauna
CRANE Leah
SLANEY Hannah (Who crushed at Studio Bloc Masters)
PHILLIPS Emily
WOOD Jennifer
TOOTHILL Holly

Men:
COUSINS Matthew
ROBERTS Aidan
PHILLIPS Nathan
BARRANS David
LANDMAN Tyler 8)
AYRTON Max


No Anna Stoher though - think she mentioned retiring last year from the full circuit?
 
What happened in the mens qualifier? 17 athletes topped all boulders in the first group, while 2 tops and 4 zones was enough to qualify from the second. Weird.
 
Thought the split format for the finals was rubbish. Three hours long, lots of glitches on the stream, still a bunch of camera blunders, and it really drags out the boulders on which the climbers aren't making much progress.
 
joel182 said:
Thought the split format for the finals was rubbish. Three hours long, lots of glitches on the stream, still a bunch of camera blunders, and it really drags out the boulders on which the climbers aren't making much progress.

Agree on the split format, much better to have them side by side and split screen when necessary. Thought it was a great comp overall, maybe the finals was a bit too easy for the women but the mens comp was spot on.
 
jwi said:
What happened in the mens qualifier? 17 athletes topped all boulders in the first group, while 2 tops and 4 zones was enough to qualify from the second. Weird.

Yeah this is weird. Do they climb the same problems in two different sessions? Could a massive difference in conditions cause the disparity? Or do they climb approximate replicas of each problem in one big session? Also how are they split in to groups? Must be by previous results I guess to have an even spread of climbers in each group.
 
Split is done from the World Ranking, which is based on events (World Cups + World Champs) from the last 365 days.

Group 1 = 1, 4, 5, 8, 9, 12, 13, 16, 17 etc

Group 2 = 2, 3, 6, 7, 10, 11, 14, 15 etc

Where possible the groups climb on similar terrain eg in Meiringen there was 1 slab for each group, 1 prow for each group, 1 40 degree for each group.
 


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