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IFSC 2018 (Read 56178 times)

Doug

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IFSC 2018
January 22, 2018, 06:37:45 pm
2018 IFSC Bouldering World Cup provisional calendar:
Day     Date         Venue     Country   
Friday  14 Apr 2018  Meiringen Switzerland
Saturday  22 Apr 2018  Moscow Russia
Saturday  06 May 2018  Chongqing China
Saturday  13 May 2018  Tai'an China
Saturday  03 Jun 2018  Hachioji, Tokyo Japan
Friday  09 Jun 2018  Vail USA! USA! USA!
Friday  18 Aug 2018  Munich Germany


In addition there's:
Day  Date  Event  Venue  Country
Saturday  11 Mar 2018  CWIF  Sheffield UK
Saturday  11 Mar 2018  Asia Cup  Hong Kong Hong Kong
Saturday  18 Mar 2018  Studio Bloc Masters 202018  Pfungstadt Germany
Saturday  08 Apr 2018  FISE World Series  Hiroshima Japan
Saturday  20 May 2018  Rock Ljubljana 202018  Ljubljana Slovenia
Saturday  16 Sep 2018  IFSC World Championships   Innsbruck Austria
Friday  22 Sep 2018  Adidas Rockstars  Stuttgart Germany

Will Shauna recover from another finger injury to match Sandrine Levet and Anna Stöhr's achievements by being bouldering WC champion for three consecutive years?

Will Jongchon Chon hold on to his crown?

What young guns will break on to the scene, and will everyone enter in to more lead comps as Olympic training?

Place your bets.

bigironhorse

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#1 Re: IFSC 2018
March 12, 2018, 07:00:50 am
What is all this "zone" bollocks? What was wrong with "bonus"?

Durbs

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#2 Re: IFSC 2018
March 12, 2018, 09:24:36 am
Also zone/bonus total is worth more than top attempts.
Which I can kind of understand; Climnber A with 3T 4B beats Climber B with 3T 3B even though B flashed all theirs where A seiged.
Makes the bonus/zone worth more - though will need some more thoughtful route-setting, as often the bonus and the top get done together.

Still want 4+ back though...

Durbs

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#3 Re: IFSC 2018
March 12, 2018, 09:32:30 am
2018 IFSC Bouldering World Cup provisional calendar:
Day     Date         Venue     Country   
Friday  14 Apr 2018  Meiringen Switzerland
Saturday  22 Apr 2018  Moscow Russia
Saturday  06 May 2018  Chongqing China
Saturday  13 May 2018  Tai'an China
Saturday  03 Jun 2018  Hachioji, Tokyo Japan
Friday  09 Jun 2018  Vail USA! USA! USA!
Friday  18 Aug 2018  Munich Germany


In addition there's:
Day  Date  Event  Venue  Country
Saturday  11 Mar 2018  CWIF  Sheffield UK
Saturday  11 Mar 2018  Asia Cup  Hong Kong Hong Kong
Saturday  18 Mar 2018  Studio Bloc Masters 202018  Pfungstadt Germany
Saturday  08 Apr 2018  FISE World Series  Hiroshima Japan
Saturday  20 May 2018  Rock Ljubljana 202018  Ljubljana Slovenia
Saturday  16 Sep 2018  IFSC World Championships   Innsbruck Austria
Friday  22 Sep 2018  Adidas Rockstars  Stuttgart Germany

Yours Days/Dates are all out by one ;)

bigironhorse

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#4 Re: IFSC 2018
March 12, 2018, 08:28:16 pm
Also zone/bonus total is worth more than top attempts.
Which I can kind of understand; Climnber A with 3T 4B beats Climber B with 3T 3B even though B flashed all theirs where A seiged.
Makes the bonus/zone worth more - though will need some more thoughtful route-setting, as often the bonus and the top get done together.

Still want 4+ back though...

Will be interesting to see how this turns out. I've often felt like bonuses should come before attempts on tops.

Agree on the 4+

Fiend

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#5 Re: IFSC 2018
March 12, 2018, 09:51:37 pm
Agree on agreeing on the 4+

Still hyped for some serious competition viewing over gin / coffee depending when.

Durbs

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#6 Re: IFSC 2018
March 23, 2018, 11:49:42 am
What is all this "zone" bollocks? What was wrong with "bonus"?

Thinking about it, it's actually more accurate... As "bonus" tends to imply something extra, which is worth more, so they got the top "and the bonus" sounds better than just getting the top - which it technically was, but 90% of the time you had to get the bonus to get the top so for new viewers *cough Olympic viewers* it makes more sense.

Not sure why "zone" though... Think it's always been called this in the American comps?

Durbs

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#7 Re: IFSC 2018
March 28, 2018, 09:24:25 am
Meiringen Starter List up (though not finalised yet).

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!type=starters&comp=7128

Great to see Pooch entering.
Megos and Jan which is cool. No Rustam though.

A stronger/larger US team than normal? Olympics momentum building do you think?

Coops_13

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#8 Re: IFSC 2018
March 28, 2018, 10:27:30 am
Meiringen Starter List up (though not finalised yet).

http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/world-competition/calendar#!type=starters&comp=7128

Great to see Pooch entering.
Megos and Jan which is cool. No Rustam though.

A stronger/larger US team than normal? Olympics momentum building do you think?
Have we got a large British contingent planned for this year's world cups do you know?

Durbs

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#9 Re: IFSC 2018
March 28, 2018, 05:17:30 pm
Not a clue...

Durbs

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#10 Re: IFSC 2018
April 04, 2018, 04:59:30 pm
UK squad now submitted:

Women:
COXSEY Shauna
CRANE Leah
SLANEY Hannah (Who crushed at Studio Bloc Masters)
PHILLIPS Emily
WOOD Jennifer
TOOTHILL Holly

Men:
COUSINS Matthew   
ROBERTS Aidan
PHILLIPS Nathan
BARRANS David
LANDMAN Tyler  8)
AYRTON Max


No Anna Stoher though - think she mentioned retiring last year from the full circuit?

fatneck

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#11 Re: IFSC 2018
April 10, 2018, 02:21:13 pm
Psyched!!

jwi

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#12 Re: IFSC 2018
April 13, 2018, 03:11:21 pm
What happened in the mens qualifier? 17 athletes topped all boulders in the first group, while 2 tops and 4 zones was enough to qualify from the second. Weird.

Duma

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#13 Re: IFSC 2018
April 14, 2018, 11:55:02 am
Yeah looked a bit unbalanced.

Anyone else stuck at work watching semis or are you all out in the sunshine?

Duma

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#14 Re: IFSC 2018
April 14, 2018, 12:13:39 pm
Jessica Pilz must be gutted!

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#15 Re: IFSC 2018
April 14, 2018, 11:27:01 pm
Thought the split format for the finals was rubbish. Three hours long, lots of glitches on the stream, still a bunch of camera blunders, and it really drags out the boulders on which the climbers aren't making much progress.

bigironhorse

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#16 Re: IFSC 2018
April 15, 2018, 11:20:46 am
Thought the split format for the finals was rubbish. Three hours long, lots of glitches on the stream, still a bunch of camera blunders, and it really drags out the boulders on which the climbers aren't making much progress.

Agree on the split format, much better to have them side by side and split screen when necessary. Thought it was a great comp overall, maybe the finals was a bit too easy for the women but the mens comp was spot on.

bigironhorse

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#17 Re: IFSC 2018
April 15, 2018, 11:24:38 am
What happened in the mens qualifier? 17 athletes topped all boulders in the first group, while 2 tops and 4 zones was enough to qualify from the second. Weird.

Yeah this is weird. Do they climb the same problems in two different sessions? Could a massive difference in conditions cause the disparity? Or do they climb approximate replicas of each problem in one big session? Also how are they split in to groups? Must be by previous results I guess to have an even spread of climbers in each group.

Duma

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#18 Re: IFSC 2018
April 15, 2018, 01:53:30 pm
they climb different problems

groups are split by ranking, odd and even I think

GraemeA

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#19 Re: IFSC 2018
April 16, 2018, 12:41:12 pm
Split is done from the World Ranking, which is based on events (World Cups + World Champs) from the last 365 days.

Group 1 = 1, 4, 5, 8, 9, 12, 13, 16, 17 etc

Group 2 = 2, 3, 6, 7, 10, 11, 14, 15 etc

Where possible the groups climb on similar terrain eg in Meiringen there was 1 slab for each group, 1 prow for each group, 1 40 degree for each group.

Danny

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#20 Re: IFSC 2018
April 16, 2018, 09:03:46 pm
I think the non-split screen format is better. IIRC, a few folk weren't happy when it was split screen.
I don't like too much in the way of jumping all over the place style problems, but M3 did provide some cracking moments. Overall: great start to the season. Good work all involved.

r-man

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#21 Re: IFSC 2018
April 16, 2018, 09:38:25 pm
When the screen was split  into 4 boxes for the qualis it was hard to watch - I think that was the main complaint.

A screen split into two halves is fine. Climbing is vertical and thin, it suits split screen perfectly.

Danny

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#22 Re: IFSC 2018
April 16, 2018, 11:02:08 pm
Misremembered on my part perhaps. I do prefer one at a time though.

jwi

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#23 Re: IFSC 2018
April 17, 2018, 08:05:04 am
I much prefer one climber at the time.

Durbs

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#24 Re: IFSC 2018
April 17, 2018, 09:20:27 am
I'm torn - I preferred being able to focus on one route; both in term of camerawork but also commentary.

However 3.5 - 4 hours is a lot to watch, even skipping the intro and observations (there was barely any gap between the men and women's comp), not just for the stream but for the audience too?

Wicked to see Jernej get a gold - well deserved, and also great seeing Jakob smash M4. Manu - hah! What a show, but got to be tough for him, Chon didn't seem to be firing on all cylinders.


Women's was a bit too easy, they still got separation, but lacked a little bit of drama. Commentary said it was set slightly soft to make a good show, which seems risky. It must be hard enough getting them hard-but-not-too-hard, to then make them slightly soft was always going to be risky.
All women except Shauna looked on fire, and getting into the finals when you're way off form is still some achievement. I still think Janja isn't quite at the dominating level, Miho and Fanny looked great. Shame Janja isn't doing the full season, and nor Shauna (is anyone?).

Overall, thought the production was great, though suspect some of this was down to the venue.
Why can't clocks work properly?

Oh, and there was lots of tutting from me at the photographer getting up in Akiyo's face on the slab...

 

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