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Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero (Read 13881 times)

Yossarian

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#25 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 23, 2018, 09:19:01 am
STG - Slim down
MTG - 7A / 7b+ / E3+
LTG - tbc

Monday - Wall. Decided to do ‘fun’ session on problems rather than training. Surprised myself (and the CrossFit brigade) on various things.
Tues-Friday - Loads of last minute work and day in London
Saturday - 45 board and circuit board
Sunday - Cooking and eating
Weight 101.3 - 101.0kg - Fasting still going well, but gorged on Taiwanese junk food in London and then ate too much pasta / baked bread over the weekend.
Need to get back out running this week and drop down to 90something kg.
Swanage trip postponed till mid Feb, so when the rain stops aiming to get out anywhere for some bouldering instead.

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#26 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 23, 2018, 11:40:28 am
S: Almscliff - dry! Warmed up repeating Dolphin Belly Slap, tried some of the moves on Exorcist SuperShort. Went down and crushed Underhand 7B+ first proper go. Third session, pretty psyched but no vid of the screaming unfortunately. Retroflashed Crusis then did Virgin Traverse link into Crusis (new problem on UKC so why not...). Then went back up to DWR area and managed to stick the next move on Exorcist SS (with bicycle, uncrossing hands and slapping out left). Could be one to try again in future... Finished up doing some more eliminates under the Crucifix

Underhand extension is the obvious next step from here, Shirley?

Minute mark / hold / added weight / seconds
1/18mm/16kg/10
4/18/20/10
7/18/36/10
10/18/36/10
13/14/16/10
16/14/20/10
19/14/36/10
22/14/40/10 (this was the good one)
25/14/40/6
28/14/36/10

Boom! impressive numbers. I did something similar the other day and managed 10sec +30kg on the BM2000 bottom L/R edges but I don't know what mm they are.

I'm sure it's out there on the internet somewhere but I can't find it. Which BM edges are the 18mm and 14mm edges?

I've  got a BM1000 what mm have I got? how does that compare to BM2000. Thanks.

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#27 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 23, 2018, 11:51:04 am

Boom! impressive numbers. I did something similar the other day and managed 10sec +30kg on the BM2000 bottom L/R edges but I don't know what mm they are.

I'm sure it's out there on the internet somewhere but I can't find it. Which BM edges are the 18mm and 14mm edges?

I've  got a BM1000 what mm have I got? how does that compare to BM2000. Thanks.

Thanks!

The bottom edges on BM2000 are 14mm, just like the top small holds on the BM1000. There's a bit of debate over this, but I think the BM1000 actually has slightly smaller holds than the BM2000. Crazy, I know.

The bottom edges on BM1000 are 18mm.

(All my hangs were on the BM1000 in the works that has a phone holder.)

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#28 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 23, 2018, 11:54:50 am
S: Almscliff - dry! Warmed up repeating Dolphin Belly Slap, tried some of the moves on Exorcist SuperShort. Went down and crushed Underhand 7B+ first proper go. Third session, pretty psyched but no vid of the screaming unfortunately. Retroflashed Crusis then did Virgin Traverse link into Crusis (new problem on UKC so why not...). Then went back up to DWR area and managed to stick the next move on Exorcist SS (with bicycle, uncrossing hands and slapping out left). Could be one to try again in future... Finished up doing some more eliminates under the Crucifix
Underhand extension is the obvious next step from here, Shirley?
Yeah idk, always thought it looked a bit kak, but I suppose an eliminate super short version of a lip shuffle is probably the same...

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#29 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 23, 2018, 11:58:25 am
If you can do Underhand neatly and you have the PE to do Crusis (which I've always found quite knackering if you don't get the sit bit right) then you can definitely do Underhand Extension.
Spend a little time dialling the first bit so you can do it efficiently without cutting loose and then just make sure that you're familiar with the end sequence.

It's obviously marred by being a weird extension, but it manages to be a really decent way to finish the problem. Plus, if you ignore the 7Cs that are blatantly not actually 7C, it's about as cheap a 7C as you'll find.

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#30 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 23, 2018, 12:20:51 pm
Colt and FIne Art varying degrees of damp

How was Dark Art looking?

TMI for powerclub maybe?

Definitely not TMI. That said, and not to criticise or anything, but jeepers your fingers sound strong for the grade you're climbing/aiming for!! Perhaps time to address some other weaknesses? For comparison, I'm climbing/aiming to climb 8A boulders and the best I've managed on a 13mm edge is 27.5kg for 8 seconds. My fingers have always been one of my weak links but still.

Anyway:

STG - 5 problems, in no particular order; Zoo York, Chiasmata, Frank, Dark Art & Crazy Legs Crome. Get stronger legs for skiing at the end of Jan
MTG - high 7s not my normal style on grit, Lager3 & Ben's Groove Sit in particular
LTG - so much to do, so little time

M - Depot 50 session. Aimed for variety and did lots of roughly 80% of max style problems.
T - lunch superset squats and bench press, mainly 5x 3r @ 60kg on both
W - lunch hangboard session. Explored doing one arm hangs with assistance attached to a harness. Felt utterly nails. Best I could do was 9 seconds on a 15mm edge with 27.5kg assistance. Also did some two arm weighted hangs and achieved my above noted max., so not a bad session.
T - Depot, did the second half of a hard yellow, then worked beta on the start and did all the moves. Then another 50 board session, more volume first then attempts on my project. Also had brief goes on one of 36Cs problems on very small holds. Got nowhere!
F - rest
S - Depot 50 session. Finally climbed the easy version of my project, which is a sort of Zoo York simulator. Felt properly strong on it.
S - rest

Good week but a bit knackered now. I think next time I'm on one arm hangs I'll try holding the assistance with the other hand, see what difference that makes.

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#31 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 23, 2018, 12:23:51 pm

Boom! impressive numbers. I did something similar the other day and managed 10sec +30kg on the BM2000 bottom L/R edges but I don't know what mm they are.

I'm sure it's out there on the internet somewhere but I can't find it. Which BM edges are the 18mm and 14mm edges?

I've  got a BM1000 what mm have I got? how does that compare to BM2000. Thanks.

Thanks!

The bottom edges on BM2000 are 14mm, just like the top small holds on the BM1000. There's a bit of debate over this, but I think the BM1000 actually has slightly smaller holds than the BM2000. Crazy, I know.

The bottom edges on BM1000 are 18mm.

(All my hangs were on the BM1000 in the works that has a phone holder.)

I'm sure I read the top edges on the 1000 were 12mm, and the bottom 2000 were 14mm. Pretty sure I saw that on a picture with edge dimensions a year ago. Could be my imagination though.

nai

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#32 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 23, 2018, 01:40:10 pm

How was Dark Art looking?


Couldn't say for sure but when I arrived Fine Art footholds under the roof were wet, when I left they were merely damp.  Last Friday everything was totally dry, seems to change day to day.  Probably be back Thursday or Friday this week so will check it out properly.

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#33 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 23, 2018, 01:42:44 pm
Probably be back Thursday or Friday this week so will check it out properly.

Thanks. Sweet, hoping to go Thursday after work so if you're there before then could you give an update?!

nai

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#34 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 23, 2018, 01:47:21 pm
Yep, will do.

nai

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#35 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 23, 2018, 01:55:49 pm
you have the PE to do Crusis

~10 moves might be a relatively long problem (although four of them are matches) but I'm not sure it could be classed as PE.

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#36 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 23, 2018, 02:37:37 pm
Thats cos you go chuffing.
To someone who just boulders its a stamina plod

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#37 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 23, 2018, 05:38:02 pm
Probably be back Thursday or Friday this week so will check it out properly.

Thanks. Sweet, hoping to go Thursday after work so if you're there before then could you give an update?!

Everything was completely soaked today  :( could’t find a dry hold - humid+++

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#38 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 23, 2018, 09:53:44 pm
not to criticise or anything, but jeepers your fingers sound strong for the grade you're climbing/aiming for!! Perhaps time to address some other weaknesses?

Thanks Bradders. You’re not the first person to make that observation! It’s useful to hear how strong other people are who climb the harder grades. I wish a number could be put on your strengths so I could see how I really line up.

I think of it like this, I have a ton of weaknesses to work on, like anterior pelvic tilt, inward shoulder rotation the flexibility of a crowbar and truly horrible technique. Sometimes I try to work on those issues but it’s a bit of a grind and who really knows where that path goes.

Meanwhile the thing I want to climb is 7C+ lime and is fingery. I could turn up there with the least anteriorly rotated pelvis in the world but if I’ve got weak fingers I’m not getting up it. I’ve fallen off the top hold a bunch of times when I was in better shape so the aim is to get back into that shape and not fuck it up next time.

So far this year I’ve put just two and a half hours into finger boarding so it’s a decent time investment.  Plus....I really like it!

I tell myself that after I’ve got up the project I will take a good hard look at what I need to address to get up Tsunami. But first things first.

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#39 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 24, 2018, 08:29:47 am

I have a ton of weaknesses to work on like...truly horrible technique.

Meanwhile the thing I want to climb is 7C+ lime...

But first things first.


I'm definitely no expert in climbing lime sport but you may want to rethink what that "first thing" is.

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#40 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 24, 2018, 09:57:30 pm
STG - get back to 7A
MTG - 7B
LTG - 7C

Preferably all lancs problems

M - nowt
T - BUK
W - Fingerboard/pull up sesh, ab ripper x core session
T - BUK, good sesh, V5 flash, happy with that
F - Nowt
S - Nowt
S - 7k run... Mast race was cancelled annoyingly although conditions would have been atrocious,

Not a bad week, was supposed to have the race on Sunday which was why I had a pretty lazy week, but in the end it was cancelled... Good climbing week, feel like the fitness will come off I keep working at it.
« Last Edit: January 24, 2018, 10:10:57 pm by rginns »

nai

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#41 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 25, 2018, 10:51:33 am
Probably be back Thursday or Friday this week so will check it out properly.

Thanks. Sweet, hoping to go Thursday after work so if you're there before then could you give an update?!

Sorry Bradders, nipper's off school ill so I won't make it there today, Can't imagine it's anything but perfect yhough

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#42 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 25, 2018, 01:21:52 pm
Weight: 66.7kg

STG: Train more regularly, climb outdoors more
MTG: Sub-90 min half marathon (March), sub 41min 10k and sub 20min 5k in training, 7A something
LTG: TBC


M: Board session.
T: Core and knee strengthening exercises. Planks/squats/leg raises/hip abductions etc.
W: Run. 8.5km.
T: Rest.
F: Run. 5km followed by 8x hill sprints.
S: Rest.
S: 20.7km at 4:40/km pace.

Long run was good, explored a bit so added a few more traffic-free miles to my road-avoiding route. Knee was ok. Hill sprints and strengthening exercises seem to have the niggle under control.

Enjoyed the first board session for a while. Need to do more. Think I will flip my training focus to bouldering once I've done the half marathon.

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#43 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 26, 2018, 08:34:16 am
Sorry Bradders, nipper's off school ill so I won't make it there today, Can't imagine it's anything but perfect yhough

No worries, didn't go myself in the end showers put me off. Going to go this evening instead.

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#44 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 26, 2018, 08:45:39 am
Sorry Bradders, nipper's off school ill so I won't make it there today, Can't imagine it's anything but perfect yhough

No worries, didn't go myself in the end showers put me off. Going to go this evening instead.

Are you having lantern session there bradders? Might be interested in joining you. Never really fancied it after dark there on my own.

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#45 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 26, 2018, 10:35:38 pm
Are you having lantern session there bradders? Might be interested in joining you. Never really fancied it after dark there on my own.

Sorry only just seen this, didn't go once again! Found out Zoo York was dry so went to try that instead. Would have been a lamp session though yeah I've always found it okay, just a little spooky  :)

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#46 Re: Lakas Klab 412 15th - 21st Enero
January 28, 2018, 10:32:56 am
Also had brief goes on one of 36Cs problems on very small holds. Got nowhere!

This the one going up the left-hand side? You'll soon be launching off those holds once you've pulled on them a few times :)

 

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