[Fiend]

1. Move away from Scotland ASAP as it's a fucking rubbish place to be as a climber long term (again). - WIP

2. Climb the Clatteringshaws Loch dam with an RC car before I go. - Planned

3. Buy more death metal vests (got Napalm Death and Cattle Decapitation so far, Behemoth on order). - Meagre success. Got a Belpehgor one too, deadlifted 170kg in it.

4. Climb more routes in the Lleyn definitive guide (again). - On hold due to health.

5. Tick off some more folks from UKB and FB (tomtom and fatneck amongst others) - On hold due to health.

6. Be even more fussy about climbing conditions. - On hold due to health.

7. Keep using anti-hydral (still). - Meagre success, skin is okay.

8. Spend the first 3 months of the year climbing on gritstone (again). - Cancelled due to health.

9. Climb more funky routes South Lakes, North Wales, South West. - On hold due to health.

10. TBA (again)

Complete pile of shit so far. Main goals are very reluctantly revised to:

Heal gut.

Stay relatively sane whilst gut is healing.

Stay active / keep hand in climbing-wise whilst coping with above.

Be able to eat pizza / croissants / beer by end of year.

Move.

[36chambers]

BOOM!
https://www.climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/ally-smith-completes-major-kilnsey-project.html

Other objectives also looking good too

Good work btw

Was the successful attempt around 1:00 pm on Saturday? I should have paid more attention to how you were getting on

[nai]

Half-term report:

Don't get broken just as the season is kicking off.

It's taking a lot of maintenance but keeping on top of it

Finish off some routes that are dragging on as WIPs. e.g. Aberration, Toys, Prow, Sissy, Raindogs.

Not been anywhere near any of them but it's a Cornice summer so that's ok

Actually get to the Cornice and try Powerplant

Not only try but do 

Do more trad.
Think I'm on the same number of days out as last year so far but as I've addressed some of the goal routes so it's been a success.  I'll leave it amber though, despite the main aim being completed there are still a number of things to go at and I dont want to slip back into being a grade chasing sport whore.
 
Keep reminding myself that it's something we do for fun

Climbing regularly with some nice folk this year, great scenes every session at the Cornice so it's been a lot of fun. Amber still, see above re grade chasing....

[Andy F]

1) Try and sort my head out. A work in progress
2) Massively reduce my booze intake (which will help point 1)1 beer in 4 weeks [
3) Get out and climb more.

Been out lots more, nothing major done yet, but big improvements

[Fiend]

Mega-uber-psyche life-affirming goal tickage HYPE....

2. Climb the Clatteringshaws Loch dam with an RC car before I go. - TICKED

....NOT  . But it was fun:



On the plus side I did a nice little route at Gillercombe the other evening which was sort of making use of the droughtwave.

[Wood FT]

Half time.

- Develop a new route
= nope, need to get the kayak out to salvage this one.

- 8a+, 7c os, E6, 7c+ dws
= nope, 7b+ onsights and 7c flash but the 7c os attempts felt a long way off. 8a+ probably too much for me this year. Never mind E6, the E1 I did a few weeks ago felt heroic enough. Still hold hope on the dws tick with Soft Cell and/or Journey to Eternia

- Swear less
= I’d like to think so.

- Maintain positive life trajectory
= Yes, good stuff here.

- Stay in touch with family more
= Hi Mum.

[monkoffunk]

Bouldering goals

Boulder 7B+ - more specifically Liquid Sunshine. DONE

Put some serious effort into some blocy Portland 7Bs. Climb more at the Bill. Force Majuere at bill, probably only 7A+ though. Didn’t really try any of the other short 7Bs. Something to return to soon.

At least try to pull onto something around 7C, Ope in Hell/Riders on the Storm, to see how far off I am. Pulled some moves on Riders on the Storm. Hopefully put in some serious effort next year.

Go to font at least once. Tick something off my font wish list 7A+ or harder. Went to font. Terrible conditions. Bunch of 7As but nothing from the project list.

Sport goals

Climb 8a. I've been saying I want to do this before I'm 30 (December 2018) for a while without much progress.
Aim to complete Fighting Torque by May. Didn’t do, but realised how much it is down to lack of trying, which I guess should have been obvious. Early part of the year I was out of shape due to exams. Did some focused training in September/October and then 5 sessions on Fighting Torque in November/December including one to figure out moves again (and then again after I pulled off crux hold). Can now do all the moves easily from the rope, and came off failing to stick last hard move on redpoint. It’s close! Will go next year.

Lifestyle

To make the above more than just a pipe dream:

1. Return to strict nutrition plan post Christmas. On and off but on when I needed to be for results. Very easy to cut booze when revising, becoming more what I want to do rather than have to.
2. Mindset. Read Jerry's book. Start climbing positively; no more self fulfilling prophecy! I’m better at this, but long way to go.
3. Sleep hygiene. Needs more work

Training

1. Increased session number with reduced volume per session. Towards end of year sessions were focused on what I needed for goals and made demonstrable progress. Psyched for next year.
2. Finger board Again, focused supplementary sessions more recently. Making progress.

Other stuff:

Get married! Couldn’t have gone better really!
Sit RCOA exams. Hard to believe but passed both parts first time. Very weak and out of shape after first bit. After second felt stronger than ever, so can find that balance after all!

Here is my year update.

Over the year I distilled the waffle above down to:

1. 8a
2. 7B+
3. Pass exams
4. Get married

(In no particular order.)

3 out of 4 isn’t too bad!

I’m really close to 8a now, but more importantly I’m really enjoying the route and redpoint process. No more climbing til new year for me, so it will have to wait, but it’s going to happen next year for sure!

[TobyD]

8a or 8a+ rp in Spain in March. ≥7c onsight.

Do a ≥ font 7b on anything other than grit or font sandstone

Get back on some Yorkshire projects

Fit in several decent trad trips in the summer

Ride my bike more

Read more.

Finish a Guardian crossword

Haha I just thought to check this thread as well. Pretty much failure on every count... Although I did onsight 7c in France in October, and onsight a lot of 7b+. Managed 7c+ in the UK. Probably rode my bike less, but ran a lot. Finished a few good books. No trad whatsoever. One session on the groove in April and not been to Malham since. Gone off the guardian crossword, I prefer the Times one at the moment. Still a couple of weeks left though...

[tommytwotone]

[Removed]

[tommytwotone]

In fact, while I'm here...bit of a rollover from last year (and probably the one before):


STG: fix knacked shoulder (current assumption / diagnosis is rotator cuff tear)
LTG: a new Font 7anything, anywhere

I'd also like to revisit a previous goal and get round to doing Long John's Slab, which is a long time ambition from when I started climbing - my first ever trip out (c.1996) was to Froggatt and remember seeing someone cruise it solo and thought "I'd like to be able to do that one day".

Well bloody hell.

Turn out my STG wasn't that short - took a good 6 months to get back to climbing and moving normally again, but I think I'm out of the rehab phase and back into light training / conditioning now.

Pulled my LTG out of the bag by doing Phil's Wall at Shipley which was a total surprise. TBH the biggest limiting factor on this goal has been opportunity rather than enthusiasm. I did well with some post-physio evening sessions in the Peak over summer, but pretty sure I've managed < 10 outdoor sessions this year.

Long John's still remains an ambition. That said I've got some time off over Xmas so there's an outside chance I could pop down and do it.

[tommytwotone]

Finish a Guardian crossword

 Gone off the guardian crossword, I prefer the Times one at the moment. Still a couple of weeks left though...

I've managed a lifetime best this year of (I think) 4 or 5, including one of the annoying alphabetical "fit the answers into the grid" ones.

If you want to do a Guardian one, I personally find Paul's the easiest, but also with some of the rude / smuttiest clues too, maybe I'm just on the right wavelength!

My personal method is to get the paper on a Saturday early doors, have a quick pass while feeding the kids etc which normally garners a few answers, but then leave it on the kitchen side to ponder throughout the day, which tends to result in chipping a few more off. I then have a concerted effort after the kids have gone down (and once I've opened a beer usually).

I've been trying for completion by midnight on a Saturday but that's a rarity - normally it takes me the rest of the week to mop up the remaining answers.

I'm lucky that an ex-colleague is a cryptic crossword don so we normally have a good WhatsApp post mortem midweek where he is good at coaching / hinting me towards the answers but without just telling me!

[cheque]

Still a couple of weeks left though...

  All still to play for!

Long John's still remains an ambition. That said I've got some time off over Xmas so there's an outside chance I could pop down and do it.

Get in touch if you do Tom. Probably not a good idea for me to try it but I'd be psyched to meet up and photograph you on it. 

[Fiend]

1. Move away from Scotland ASAP as it's a fucking rubbish place to be as a climber long term (again). - WIP

2. Climb the Clatteringshaws Loch dam with an RC car before I go. - Planned

3. Buy more death metal vests (got Napalm Death and Cattle Decapitation so far, Behemoth on order). - Meagre success. Got a Belpehgor one too, deadlifted 170kg in it.

4. Climb more routes in the Lleyn definitive guide (again). - On hold due to health.

5. Tick off some more folks from UKB and FB (tomtom and fatneck amongst others) - On hold due to health.

6. Be even more fussy about climbing conditions. - On hold due to health.

7. Keep using anti-hydral (still). - Meagre success, skin is okay.

8. Spend the first 3 months of the year climbing on gritstone (again). - Cancelled due to health.

9. Climb more funky routes South Lakes, North Wales, South West. - On hold due to health.

10. TBA (again)

Complete pile of shit so far. Main goals are very reluctantly revised to:

Heal gut. - maybe halfway there overall

Stay relatively sane whilst gut is healing. - yes thanks to drugs

Stay active / keep hand in climbing-wise whilst coping with above. - finally got there in the end and had a good autumn thank fuck.

Be able to eat pizza / croissants / beer by end of year. - rofl not a fucking hope

Move. - still stupidly cunting slow WIP but there is some progress

Whatever.

[Will Hunt]

Finish a Guardian crossword

 Gone off the guardian crossword, I prefer the Times one at the moment. Still a couple of weeks left though...

I've managed a lifetime best this year of (I think) 4 or 5, including one of the annoying alphabetical "fit the answers into the grid" ones.

If you want to do a Guardian one, I personally find Paul's the easiest, but also with some of the rude / smuttiest clues too, maybe I'm just on the right wavelength!

My personal method is to get the paper on a Saturday early doors, have a quick pass while feeding the kids etc which normally garners a few answers, but then leave it on the kitchen side to ponder throughout the day, which tends to result in chipping a few more off. I then have a concerted effort after the kids have gone down (and once I've opened a beer usually).

I've been trying for completion by midnight on a Saturday but that's a rarity - normally it takes me the rest of the week to mop up the remaining answers.

I'm lucky that an ex-colleague is a cryptic crossword don so we normally have a good WhatsApp post mortem midweek where he is good at coaching / hinting me towards the answers but without just telling me!

My weekly diet consists of the Everyman, the Guardian quiptic, and the Monday Guardian - so basically those which are generally considered the easiest. I've been fairly consistently completing the Everyman, though it sometimes takes most of the week, sometimes it's done by Sunday lunchtime. The quiptic normally goes without too much trouble and the Monday one depends on the setter.
Paul is good. His clues make sense and he normally throws some giveaways in there to get you started. I wouldn't expect to finish one though.
There is a crossword thread buried on here somewhere. Perhaps the enthusiasts should resurrect it?

[moose]

I try the Guardian cryptic most days (depending on if I am on site visits) and find it a pretty variable beast.  I normally finish it or get pretty close but some days it's a complete non-starter, as certain setters have very different attitudes to "fairness", which  can be frustrating.  A pet hate is having almost every clue linked to a single huge "master" clue that often relies on culturally specific knowledge (a poetry quote, famous epigram, or an opera reference).  For me the Times crossword is more of a steady average - perhaps lacks the flair and humour of the best Guardian puzzles but is firm and generally fairer.

[Andy F]

1) Try and sort my head out.
2) Massively reduce my booze intake (which will help point 1)
3) Get out and climb more.

1) Success in many areas. New job, reduced meds, much happier
2) Mostly successful, but still a work in progress.
3) color=green]Big success. First 8a route for 4 years, lots of new crags visited, a good few new 7b+'s done. Not bouldered much but still managed to flash 7A+ and get other 7a/+ done very quickly when out. Not really tried anything hard, so that's an aim for next year.[[/color]

Big shout to Toby for being a real support (with honourable mentions to Ian P, Tim B and the Lancs crowd for always being there when needed. And when not)

[Wil]

Nice one Andy.   

[TobyD]

1) Try and sort my head out.
2) Massively reduce my booze intake (which will help point 1)
3) Get out and climb more.

1) Success in many areas. New job, reduced meds, much happier
2) Mostly successful, but still a work in progress.
3) color=green]Big success. First 8a route for 4 years, lots of new crags visited, a good few new 7b+'s done. Not bouldered much but still managed to flash 7A+ and get other 7a/+ done very quickly when out. Not really tried anything hard, so that's an aim for next year.[[/color]

Big shout to Toby for being a real support (with honourable mentions to Ian P, Tim B and the Lancs crowd for always being there when needed. And when not)

A good year for you Andy, well done. Always a pleasure to share belays / heckles with you! I'd be surprised if Liverpool's recent performance hadn't affected your booze intake somewhat... Although maybe you don't need any at all to feel good if you're beating ManU!

[Bradders]

Glorious failure for me this year; I did at least try to get them all done!

1. Get an overseas trip booked.
2. Climb 7C on the Leeds Depot 50' board.
3.  This is Yorkshire tick list. get another two or three of the harder ones done in 2018.
4. high 7s on grit that aren't my normal style. Lager3, Ben's Groove Sit and Underworld
5. Climb 8A on UK lime and in Wales.

1. Done, albeit not in 2018 - two trips booked for 2019. Enjoyed visits to Scotland and Cornwall this year at least; as keen to return to both as I am to go abroad.

2. nope. Although I have now done most of the moves on one of them, so there's hope!

3. nope. Two sessions on Sole Fusion and got pretty close. Three sessions on Zoo York in Jan/Feb before walking away knowing I wasn't good enough yet. Otherwise, apart from a very brief go on Pixie Tits and pulling onto Ben's Sit once or twice whilst trying other things, I didn't try any others.

4. yeah, going to give myself a tick for this one. Another three sessions on Lager to no avail, however I did manage Razor quickly which was very satisfying, plus did a few other anti-style things like Baby Spice, Stu's LH, DWR LH, The Flakes, Underpants, Ebola, all the stand start classics on the Bowderstone ladder face, etc. All of which I would have previously categorised as being outside of my skill set.

5. nope. Put a lot of time into Iron Man at Trowbarrow, getting really close in the spring just before it got stupid hot. Back on it once in Autumn and hadn't gone backwards but still no tick. A solitary session on central Peak lime mid-heatwave was deeply unpleasant and I didn't return. Still haven't even climbed in Wales.

[spidermonkey09]

Still haven't even climbed in Wales.[/color]

Thats shocking! Have you bought the big guide? Buying that and flicking through it would have to be psych inducing.

[Ally Smith]

2018:
- Kilnsey roof project
    - If impractical (weather is a possible limiting factor): Net reduction in number of bolted, but uncompleted projects
- Get married

I've had a stonker of a year - I never thought I would have my most successful climbing year in the same year as moving house twice and getting married!?!

- Kilnsey roof project - did the deed thanks to the extended summer season - as reported elsewhere "The Pirate" 8c- ish 
- Net reduction in number of bolted projects - another success, but only just - bolted 2, climbed 3 (The Pirate, 8c, Kilnsey; Bullheart, 8b/+, Cheedale; El Regalo del Diablo, 8b, Devil's Gorge)
- We had an amazing wedding day 2 weekends ago  - the day itself flew by at amazing rate of knots and the honeymoon in Mauritius was sublime

[Coops_13]

1. 7C
2. Do at least 50 problems >= 7B
3. Do some finger strength training

1. YYFY. Jack the Chipper and Supernova in Magic Wood in June. Probably need to get sub-80kg again if I'm to do another...

2. This was never going to happen... Managed 22 >= 7B which was pretty good

3. A phase of one-arm max hangs and now in a phase of two-arm max hangs which are going well!

[nai]

Don't get broken just as the season is kicking off.

It's taking a lot of maintenance but keeping on top of it

Kept on top of the knots and niggles wich was the aim but tore my hamstring (being a grade chasing whore) just as Autumn kicked off and then my Sub Scap as consequence of that.

Finish off some routes that are dragging on as WIPs. e.g. Aberration, Toys, Prow, Sissy, Raindogs.

Not been anywhere near any of them but it's a Cornice summer so that's ok

Didn't climb anywhere but the Cornice all summer, and trips north were to Kilnsey, so didn't do these. However, I did tick off all the extensions on the River section which I'd wanted to do. Initially a bit glum to find them hard but glad to see everyone else did too and they've been upgraded.

Actually get to the Cornice and try Powerplant

Not only try but do 

Do more trad.
Didn'd do any more days out after June but I'll call this a success, I did Resurrection which was the aim no.1 and came oh so close to  Flaky Wall which was no.2. Would have done more if I hadn't trolleyed myself.
 
Keep reminding myself that it's something we do for fun

Was going so well until I went chasing success at Griffs.

[Bradders]

Thats shocking! Have you bought the big guide? Buying that and flicking through it would have to be psych inducing.

Ha, funny story; I bought the guide the day it came out and my dog promptly ate the back cover and last quarter or so of the pages. Only book he's ever done it to as well 

Thing is I climb by myself a lot and it always seems unjustifiable to drive all that way on my own, especially when there's so much to do locally. That said, I've been up to the Lakes a lot this year so I really ought to change it up next year.

[Will Hunt]

did a few other anti-style things like Baby Spice, Stu's LH, DWR LH, The Flakes, Underpants, Ebola, all the stand start classics on the Bowderstone ladder face, etc. All of which I would have previously categorised as being outside of my skill set.

Whoa whoa whoa. If all of those are your anti-style, then what is your style?