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Aims for 2018 (Read 49471 times)

Bradders

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#150 Re: Aims for 2018
December 20, 2018, 12:52:20 pm
Whoa whoa whoa. If all of those are your anti-style, then what is your style?

Compression between good holds - Queen Kong, Sideliner, Jason's,  Chiasmata, Vicious Streak to name a few all done in the last year or so.

I am, or at least was, terrible (when compared to my abilities on compression problems) on small crimps, techy walls/aretes and board style problems and I've definitely improved in all those styles this year.

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#151 Re: Aims for 2018
December 20, 2018, 01:51:12 pm
Whoa whoa whoa. If all of those are your anti-style, then what is your style?

Compression between good holds - Queen Kong, Sideliner, Jason's,  Chiasmata, Vicious Streak to name a few all done in the last year or so.

I am, or at least was, terrible (when compared to my abilities on compression problems) on small crimps, techy walls/aretes and board style problems and I've definitely improved in all those styles this year.


Lets never go climbing together.

Bradders

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#152 Re: Aims for 2018
December 20, 2018, 02:38:31 pm
Lets never go climbing together.

Forever alone  :wavecry: :boohoo:

Wood FT

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#153 Re: Aims for 2018
December 20, 2018, 05:54:42 pm

Half time. Full time

- Develop a new route
= nope, need to get the kayak out to salvage this one. Nope, though I know what I'll try next summer, probably need stronger people to try it first....  maybe they'll drop off the top like the French chap at the cornice.

- 8a+, 7c os, E6, 7c+ dws
= nope, 7b+ onsights and 7c flash but the 7c os attempts felt a long way off. 8a+ probably too much for me this year. Never mind E6, the E1 I did a few weeks ago felt heroic enough. Still hold hope on the dws tick with Soft Cell and/or Journey to Eternia
Great time climbing but didn't achieve any of these goals, happy to get my first 7b+ onsight in the UK at Trow Gill though. Have been on GBH and psyched to get going on it next year. Had a go up Soft Cell (Berry Head) but got lost trying to get established in the roof, far far away from the hard climbing. Need a crew. Will leave re-telling the trad escapades for another thread. 

- Swear less
= I’d like to think so.
Definitely, swearing is like having a pint of Jaipur to me now.

- Maintain positive life trajectory
= Yes, good stuff here.
Continued and ongoing.

- Stay in touch with family more
= Hi Mum.
Sort of a tick, now at family home for xmas, day one nearly over....

Set high aims and didn't achieve them, but I've had a great year of climbing in the end with lots of goals ticked, looking forward to next year and trying hard.

Will Hunt

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#154 Re: Aims for 2018
December 20, 2018, 06:15:47 pm
Which was the Trow onsight? Love that place.

Wood FT

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#155 Re: Aims for 2018
December 20, 2018, 06:22:03 pm
Pursuit of Excellence

Andy F

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#156 Re: Aims for 2018
December 20, 2018, 10:07:49 pm
Pursuit of Excellence

Good effort. That was my first 7b+ onsight, cracking route.

Wood FT

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#157 Re: Aims for 2018
December 20, 2018, 11:12:07 pm
Pursuit of Excellence

Good effort. That was my first 7b+ onsight, cracking route.

Thanks, really enjoyed the crag

36chambers

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#158 Re: Aims for 2018
December 21, 2018, 02:43:06 pm
1. 7C
2. Do at least 50 problems >= 7B
3. Do some finger strength training

1. YYFY. Jack the Chipper and Supernova in Magic Wood in June. Probably need to get sub-80kg again if I'm to do another...

2. This was never going to happen... Managed 22 >= 7B which was pretty good

3. A phase of one-arm max hangs and now in a phase of two-arm max hangs which are going well!

Kudos Coops, good work :beer2:

SA Chris

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#159 Re: Aims for 2018
December 21, 2018, 03:56:54 pm
Was going to review and see how badly I failed this year, but it seems I failed to even make a list to fail on.

Anyway, positives for the year;

Climbed quite hard

Done some great running

Not got injured

Still got job (although this could be regarded as a fail).

36chambers

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#160 Re: Aims for 2018
December 21, 2018, 07:17:19 pm
Forgot to add mine

15 proper (and independent) 7C+s and above. Probably too overambitious, but isn't that the point.

Effectively half way through the year now.

8 down and so far they've all been corkers ;D

Nothing more to add, but overall happy with what I got up and what I got to try. Climbing was put on the back burner for the latter part of the year whilst I finished my PhD, which is the real tick of 2018 (here's to hoping the psychological distress it has caused me over the last 2 years isn't long lasting).

Footwork

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#161 Re: Aims for 2018
December 21, 2018, 09:03:53 pm
Not done these yet

Climbing aims

- 8A on the blocs again
- 3 routes off the sport bucket list
- E6 in any style


Non climbing aims

- Write more often
- remain gainfully employed post qualification
- do up the house

Tough year climbing wise for me. Felt strong now and again but didn't have the time/ weather windows to put stuff to bed.

Climbing

No 8A's this year but did climb Sweet Dreams Sit and Corridors Of Power. The latter being bloody good. Lots of projects left unfinished. No sport or trad  :tumble:

Non Climbing

Writing started ok but then fell well off the radar. The house has a way to go but I'm pleased with how it looks (It's now got central heating again) and it certainly feels like home!

Best thing I did this year was qualify as a lawyer. I even got a bottle of 10 Year Glen Grant for Christmas. Winning!
« Last Edit: December 21, 2018, 09:13:21 pm by Footwork »

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#162 Re: Aims for 2018
December 21, 2018, 10:52:49 pm
Climbing

[1] Have a good'un in Leonadio in January.  Hopefully bag some decent on-sights and "in-a-day RPs", but mainly just enjoy the sun and revive my spirits.

Partial success; I didn't exactly tear-it-up grade-wise but had fun; just nice to feel the sun on my skin.

[2] Boulder outdoors a few times before the routes season begins (perhaps finally bag Ju Ju Club).  Only climbing indoors in the UK all winter would be a bit obscene, even by my eroded standards.

Largely defeated by wetness and cold; can only recall ticking two problems, Barry Kingsize SS (Crookrise) and  Fertile Delta SS (C-y-L).   Shame really as I had felt pretty strong by my terrible standards

[3] Spring & Autumn: decent progress on Predator (RPing seems overly ambitious in my current state).

Fail: too unfit in Spring, too fatigued and jaded by Autumn; I've decided to give up on the route (at least for a season).  Regardless of Predator's classic status, I have to admit that haven't enjoyed the time spent on it; for me, every move feels awkward and unpleasant. Life is too short to work something I dread trying.

[4] Summer: tick or at least come damn close on Showtime, or at maybe Stolen-Time if seepage / hold breakage dictates.

Tick. Did Showtime pretty early in the season, whilst still feeling half-fit.  One of those incredible out-of-body ascents where you are not properly conscious, just in a mental maelstrom of the intricacies of the route and abject terror of a mistake.  I remember horrible long seconds spent contemplating quick-draws swinging in the wind and desperately hoping I would catch and clip them, without fumbling or being hit in the face.  The intensity of that twenty minutes, and the gibbering euphoria whilst being lowered, was ample justification for so many weeks of frustration and effort.  The only regret is that the rest of the season (which was most of it) was an anti-climax; I lacked impetus and felt like I was going through the motions.

[5] Have more than a token visit to a UK crag other than Malham / Kilnsey (work Supercool, project something in the Peak or at Chapel).

Tick.  The hot summer forced me to climb at crags other than Malham and Kilnsey, mainly the Hollywood Bowl and Gordale.  I gave up working Supercool when I realised that, like Predator, I just don't enjoy the moves.  But I had great fun making fast work of lots of 2 / 3-star classics: Pierrepoint, Defcon, Last Man, Cave Route RH, Divine Brown, Sunset Boulevard, Illywacker.  In-a-day-RPs: my favourite type of climbing: hard enough to feel worthwhile but enough of an effort to be satisfying.

[6] Maintain midweek training efforts: periodic hangboard regimes to top-up finger strength, plus woodie sessions for power.

Tick.... plus TRX sessions in a likely doomed effort to remedy my appalling upper body conditioning... keeping up some midweek action doesn't feel like an achievement though - just inertia.

"Life"
[1] Less booze; eat better.

Drank more but did eat better.  So I am still at risk of liver failure.... and heavier into the bargain!

[2] Less aimless web browsing: be more efficient at work (less needless long evenings in the office), read more at home.

FAIL

[3] Don't let work get on top of me (can be combined with [6] above - make time for mid-week woodie sessions, if only for psychic self-defence, rather than "training" reasons).

FAIL I've perhaps managed to make time for more mid-week fun, but that's been more to do with the intermittent nature of work, than my own attitude. When the work load has increased, I've been unable to resist becoming tired and stressed with no feeling of agency

shark

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#163 Re: Aims for 2018
December 22, 2018, 07:05:52 pm
-The Oak

Failed. Badly. Didn't even get past the horn in the Autumn  >:(

-Get a corporate sponsor for the GB teams

 :worms:

-Learn to dance with Sonia

Yes. We've stuck at this.

-Boulder with the boys lots

A fair amount but it was quite an effort to drag them outside at times



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#164 Re: Aims for 2018
December 30, 2018, 06:43:32 pm
1. Advanced Training

Total victory. Career high point / life goal achieved in August. Have sprayed about it more than enough on the forum so will leave it at that.

...a long way behind / supporting
2. Get down below 64kgs and stay there
Got below 64 once or twice but not consistently. Don’t have to be that light for projects - was a few kg heavier for AT - but it does make everything a lot easier. In theory the easiest of all targets - all you have to do is not put so much food in your gob - but there’s always a short term trade off

3. Achieve the "simple" kettlebell standard (32kgs 100 swings and 10 get ups in 16 minutes)
24kg consistently now but 32kg is a lot to Turkish Get Up - it’s a lot even just to swing!

4. 100 fingerboard sessions / achieve a bodyweight 1 hand 20mm hang / 2 hand +50kg 14mm hang
Was going really well by April - managed a legit 5s bw hang off the bottom middle BM2k and an 8s +48kg hang off the smalls on BM1k around March. But kept getting discouraged to really hammer the fingerboard and sort of knew I should be doing something else. That’s fine but never really figured out what that something else would be.

5. Sub-20 graves parkrun
21:09 one week in April and then a 20:04 somewhere flat the next week. Then hamstring injury. This one was harder than I thought and I had to prioritise bouldering.

6. Put my phone away and go to bed earlier
nope

Yossarian

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#165 Re: Aims for 2018
December 30, 2018, 06:53:34 pm
Start year with decent regime, get down to a vaguely slimline 80something kg. Cut out / down booze consumption. Sort out diet and stop fetishising insanely large chunks of meat.

No booze all year (apart from a can of Flat Tire that I thought was alcohol free). Weight has crept back up ovewr the past couple of months, but still just in the 80s.

And then:
1 arm pull-up
1-4-7

A way off the former, quite close to the latter.

Climbing:
Try to get outside throughout the year rather than training for distant holidays.
25 days climbing outside - wonder if I can double that for 2019?

Abandon (for the time being) alpine rock aspirations and nice idea but tricky in execution type adventures, and concentrate on a nice and simple variety of routes along the lines of:

Boulder - some decent ticks in the 7A to 7B+ range
Sport - 7a - 7b+ then reboot Project 8a
Trad - E3 would be nice, E5 would be excellent. I’d be very happy to tick Ocean Boulevard at Swanage and Kafoozalem at Bosigran.


A distinct lack of ticking - to be addressed in 2019.

Trad and sport on the south coast, and further afield if possible. Family trip to Font, and something else Euro in the summer. Also to be addressed.

Non-climbing:
Contribute more to family life by finishing various work in progress rooms, starting with the (nearly three-year-old) kitchen project My wife has not left me yet, so I think the amount of effort I put into finishing the house was marginally above the critical threshold.
Write a book for people other than children Hopefully about to start one though.
Read more fiction / read more female authors Started Albertine Sarrazin's Astragal.
Discover a new species Carrying this over to 2020/21
Buy a motorbike I need to sell some bicycles first.

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#166 Re: Aims for 2018
December 31, 2018, 10:25:34 am
My film should be out of the way soon so 2018 is potentially an exciting year.

Finished film. Had “exciting” year.

Do more trad

Did less trad, at lower grades than when I first started climbing.

Not be shown up when my mates come over from the US

Couldn’t climb with them. Not going to colour this red though as I managed to not let my state at the time spoil their trip. Such a good week.

Onsight sport 7a, redpoint 7b (and ideally) 7b+

Onsighted a 7a on toprope in Spain- a poor effort in a way (chose to toprope as everyone else had packed up for the day and I didn’t want to keep them waiting by spending ages trying to get the draws out :slap: ) but also the first time I’d onsighted or flashed that grade in any circumstances. The other aims will have to wait.

Equal or better 2017’s total of 98 days on rock

Only 13 days rock climbing. A “career” low, for obvious reasons. For the first time I also decided that my time this winter would be better spent on training and rehabilitation rather than trying to get out on rock all the time.

Drastically improve on 2017’s total of one solitary climbing trip to not-really-very-exotic Dorset

Only one trip again, but it was abroad and, strictly speaking, it was more than a month long.

Keep making music, take more, better photos and come up with an idea for another big ambitious climbing film

Didn’t make any more music after finishing the film in March but I have improved my photography I think. Got two new film projects in the early stages, neither massively ambitious though.

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#167 Re: Aims for 2018
December 31, 2018, 11:13:34 am
Loving the photos Mike! Top shots, apart from the one of my shiny bonce 😂

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#168 Re: Aims for 2018
December 31, 2018, 01:28:03 pm

Better state my aims for the year too...

Off down under at the end of the month And have three main things I want to do.in order of difficulty;

Totem Pole - pretty doable. Tick! Didn’t do the top pitch clean but it was a mega adventurous day, with a big sea (got wet swinging over to the base) and leading it all. Also only third day of route climbing of the year and third day in Australia so connies were slightly against me. Met Paul Pritchard

Archimedes Principle - might not onsight it but shouldn’t be too stressful to redpoint? Ground up second go. Not the amazing experience I wanted as someone else was there and had put the gear in (badly!) still an amazing route and being at the top as the sunset was pretty amazing!

Serpentine - at my limit but hopefully with enough time I hopefully have a chance Fucking get in! One of the best pitches I’ve ever done and an amazing climbing experience

U.K. aims

E6 - ideally onsight but ground up would be acceptable - lord/cad/suicide blonde being obvious contenders.

 Did two softies; reproduction at high tor and on reflection at the burren. Also did some chunky E5s

UK 8a? Big chat with this one as I’ll obviously get distracted by trad climbing. Defcon 3 and Zoolook are the two I like the look of. Really want to do Cave left also

Pahahaha! Barely did any serious sport climbing in the U.K. this year

Boulder 7A+/B more consistently. This winter has been a total shambles bouldering wise so it would be good to improve this discipline again. Problems on the hitlist include - art of white hat wearing, Ulysses or bust, spare rib, scary canary, chip shop brawl

Might have done had we had better connies or if I had been able to have made the most of better connies away from the peak. Had someone amazing to hang out with in Sheffield so not too bothered.

Think a trip to Font in October instead of a route climbing trip would help this as would trying to sustain a fingerboard program. Onde de choc and rubis sur l’ongle being 2things I’d like to do out there. Hopefully can ride out one weak winter. 2 years of being weak might be bad for my climbing...? Had a fun font trip where I got some good 7As done but nothing harder

Good luck everybody - hope you all have a great year!

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#169 Re: Aims for 2018
December 31, 2018, 02:12:54 pm
I always like this thread, some people have done some great stuff.

Ended 2017 falling over and twatting (more severe than a tweak) middle finger. Got my act together by April and had some good trips resulting in a quick 7b (Siurana) and ticking over at E2/3 (Pembroke). Shortly after, mental and physical health dropped off a cliff. Combined stresses resulted in a good old fashioned frozen shoulder and not much climbing for the rest of the year. Hiking up Mt. Fuji (3776m) in a not-shabby 3.5 hours was a nice distraction in my time off from climbing. Perhaps I’ll become a mountaineer in my old age.


Classic Pembroke E5 (Ships That Pass in the Night, Darkness at Noon).

A couple of good Pembroke trips and one not-so-good. Followed an E4 without too much difficulty but not close to trying an E5.


Damai Sentosa on Dragon’s Horns, Tioman Island (a candidate for an updated Parois de légende). First reserve: one of the long routes at Bukit Takun.

Wasn't fit enough or with an experienced enough team to try Damai Sentosa but did Naga instead which was the highpoint of the year for rock climbing.


7b+ (The Jimi Hendrix Experience? Bird of Paradise/Paradise Lost? Suggestions welcome!).

7b after minimal practice suggests this wouldn't have been unrealistic in April but didn't realise this was the highpoint of the year and never tried one.


Trip to Gogarth, Fairhead, or Lundy.

Climb a route outdoors with the lad.


None of the above.

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#170 Re: Aims for 2018
January 01, 2019, 07:32:10 pm
I think it's a two year update from me... however my aims remained as my finger didn't properly sort itself out.

Get back to onsighting 7a
More than 30 7's in 2018

~10 onsight and others mostly second go

do zippatrocity

Do another proper trad trip with cracks
Onsight amazing 11c thin hands
12a fingers second go
12b thin hands roof onsight


Onsight 7b in Spain
See above

Dws more 7a in Mallorca
Done 2017

My main aim was to build a base for my finger problem and I aimed to do lots of 7a's and 3 7b+'s
Achieved:
1 7c
4 7b+
30+ 7a's

Happy


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#171 Re: Aims for 2018
January 01, 2019, 08:56:58 pm
7C

Nope, but did a few 7B's and a 7B+ and had a good session on Jerry's Roof all in the first 6 months. If life hadn't got in the way it might have happened.

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#172 Re: Aims for 2018
January 01, 2019, 10:08:15 pm
Life

1. Move house, settle eldest daughter into new primary school & middle one pre-school, & achieve general happy home.

2. Get promotion at existing work or new (better paid!) job.


Pretty good on this front.  Settled into the new house near where I grew-up, which is great for being near my parents (aka the grandparents), and finally got a promotion at work.

General fitness

3. Sort out current elbow nigggles, get weight down under at least 11st 5lb & stay injury free.

Had the first 3 months of the year off climbing due to tennis elbow in my left arm, got it sorted then within a month of starting climbing again I got tennis elbow in my right arm - carried on climbing but it limited training for another 4 months.  Lost any motivation not to drink beer & eat crap as a result, so have been 1/2 st over target weight all year as well.  These factors, combined with unexpected family commitments, have severely limited climbing this year.

On the plus side, elbows are now much better (if not quite 100%) so gonna put this in orange.

Climbing

4. Get one weekend trip outside SW.  Pembroke or Gogarth hopefully.

Total fail due to family stuff.

5. Do lots of SW trad in the E4 to E5/6 range.  Would be great to o/s E5 on granite as I always find it hard.

Need to compile a proper ticklist, but off the top of my head any of the following would be good:

Kafoozalem;
The West Face;
Deja Vu;
Lazarus;
International Kidney Dealer;
Oceans;
Kellan Arête;
King’s Arete;
Il Duce;
Interspace;
Sirens’s Cry;
Demolition.

Due to the reasons above I didn't do as much tradding as I would like.  Managed a handful of decent E4s, but the only route on the list which I tried was The West Face and I fell off it, although I still really enjoyed it.

 

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