[jwi]

The entire Parois de Légende is now available as a pdf from Bodet & Petit's website

https://vagabondsdelaverticale.wordpress.com/books/

Arnaud Petit is writing on his facebook: (loosely translated)

A Christmas gift for those who are looking for the book Parois de légende... People are often asking me how to get hold of it – it is no longer available and there will not be a second print, we offer you access to the content in pdf on our web site. In hope of a calm and beautiful holiday season.

[duncan]

Shame there will be no revised version.  AP was talking about doing one eighteen months ago with new content to replace the Saharan routes. I guess it’s a lot of work and perhaps they feel it’s time for someone else to take it on. There have been a couple of recent efforts along similar lines but both very Eurocentric and fell well short of what could be done. 

[jwi]

A good thing about PdL is that, apart from impeccable route choices (in Europe and around the Mediterranean sea at least), the topos and pitch descriptions are spot on  – usually better than the area guide book. I still hope for a future extended version. AP seems still keen to gather info about more multipitch crags around the world.

[Paul B]

Do you take no second print to mean no future publication?

I was hassling him for an English version via social media less than 18 months ago and he said it was coming.

I was bought "Rock Around the World" for Christmas and despite not having scrutinised it the first flick got me totally psyched.

[Neil F]

Did anyone download this, and if so, would you be able to let me have a copy (perhaps via weTransfer, if its a very big file)?

I saw the original post, but was abroad at the time without access to a big dataplan - so couldn't download it.

When I remembered about it today and went to Arnaud and Steph's website to download it, I just found a message saying the publisher has stopped them offering the download (though given that the original offer was made on Xmas day, lots of folk did probably download it before the publisher put a stop to the fun).

Thanks, Neil

[sdm]

I've got a copy, I'll send you a Google drive link.

[petejh]

Also have a copy if you need one. Best free download ever!

[galpinos]

Could I add my name to the list of people who missed the download offer and would like a copy?

[Turboman]

Still available to download at...

http://naokiarima.com.br/parois-de-legende/

[Neil F]

Thanks for the replies, and particularly to sdm for making his download available to me this morning.

Looking forward to getting inspired....!

Neil

[jwi]

I have my copy somewhere in my apartment 6h away, and the said pdf on a network drive that I for some reason cannot access anymore. Does anyone still have a copy they could send? The pages with Dévoluy suffices.

[nic mullin]

Have PM'd you.

[sdm]

Beat me to it. I've also pmed you a link (if pms are working?)

[jwi]

Have PM'd you.

thanks!

[jwi]

Beat me to it. I've also pmed you a link (if pms are working?)

nic's pm is working, but not yours... very strange? but no sweat, I have the relevant pages!

[sdm]

Weird

[petejh]

Would be interested to hear how you find Devoluy jwi. We climbed at the sport crag on Le Gicon a few years ago and remember looking across at that huge main wall and thinking it'd looked ace.

[HaeMeS]

Would be interested to hear how you find Devoluy jwi. We climbed at the sport crag on Le Gicon a few years ago and remember looking across at that huge main wall and thinking it'd looked ace.

I've done 4 routes (Lucifer, Dernière, Paix, and the short one) on the west facing main wall and 1 on the north facing wall (Balade). The quality of the climbing and rock isn't exceptional, but I like setting, the accessibility and the fact that a wall this big is located next to the road. And the climbing with the horizontal silica bands is special for sure, and quite pumpy as well.

I hope to be back for more (either Elsa, lMdlM, or Miroir Tectonique) next week. The route we did on the north face was the most adventurous (before the rebolting) of the lot, but the quality of the rock was mostly average. The traversing 14th length of Dernière I'll always remember. Brilliant exposure and at 7a a bit too hard to cruise comfortably for me at the time. Sweet memories of a breaking hold and resulting big lob into the void below .

Bruno Beatrix went back in 2015, 2016 and 2018 and put up three new routes on the west facing wall Patate d'espace, Humeurs Vagabondes and MT. lMdlM by another team on the north face is new as well:

https://sud-ascension.com/nouvelle-escalade-a-la-grande-roche-gillardes-devoluy/
https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/1211350/fr/les-gillardes-petite-roche-miroir-tectonique

[petejh]

Great info! 

[jwi]

Would be interested to hear how you find Devoluy jwi. We climbed at the sport crag on Le Gicon a few years ago and remember looking across at that huge main wall and thinking it'd looked ace.

Me and my better half did this today: https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54706/fr/les-gillardes-petite-roche-sous-la-griffe-de-lucifer
Apart from the first pitch, the rock was excellent all the way. Most pitches vertical. Pitch 4 to pitch 11 were all very good. Quite far between the bolts: "either be strong or be zen" as we were told. I am way more tired now than I thought I'd be.

[petejh]

Very envious! I love that area. Stayed in a nice campsite just down the valley on the D937, near  Veynes. Close to Ceuse, Devoluy, Orpierre. Had a great time.

I remember some impressive huge faces on Sommet de Plaine or Raz de Bec.. do you know if there are routes on those?

I need more long adventurous rock climbs in big mountains in my life

[MischaHY]

Could someone possibly PM me a drive link? Would love to have a look at this. 

[jwi]

I remember some impressive huge faces on Sommet de Plaine or Raz de Bec.. do you know if there are routes on those?

The most impressive wall around those peaks is surely Pic de Bure (the impressive pillar visible from the motorway approaching Gap/Céüse from the south). René Desmaison put up the classic route that every aspiring climber has done at some point https://www.camptocamp.org/routes/54479/fr/pic-de-bure-pilier-e-ou-voie-desmaison (My wife says its good, but that it involves a lot of hiking in and out making it a long day).

I think it is fair to assume that every steep face in the alps has a route.

[RogerG]

me too please! would love a download link
thanks

[nic mullin]

I've PM'd you both - let me know if they haven't arrived

[MischaHY]

Cheers fella   

[jwi]

I hope to be back for more (either Elsa, lMdlM, or Miroir Tectonique) next week.

Miroir Tectonique was good! As it is new there were loose holds a bit through the entire routes, but lots of shiny bolts.

The route starts 50 m to the right of the common first pitch of Elsa and Lucifer.


The first pitch is easily identified by the large roofs that caps the 2nd pitch. Start on the plumb line of the left edge of the roof.


The 5th pitch in particular had very good climbing. Steep and sustained.


Hauling a bag works well. Pitch 10 ended with a traverse that required a small trick.


Pitch 12 was particularly loose, my wife broke no holds on the lead, I broke one hand hold and two feet. But the climbing is easy enough that it is possible to stay on for anyone having the slightest chance on freeing the crux pitch.


I fell on the last move of the crux pitch 13, after breaking another foothold. Oh well, if I would have had margin I would have been fine, but I didn't. The top part of the route doesn't get into the sun until almost 4pm, but we were pretty slow. Well hot in the sun.

Brillant decent on alpine meadows. Pic de Bure in the background.


I found no topo online, but the descriptions on camp to camp sufficed. The route doesn't cross any other route so just follow the bolts... Regardless, I made a topo, so now there's no excuse....

[Caoimhghin]

Hi guys !
Just discovered this forum, I would love to take a look at the bible/book. Could someone please PM me a download link? Thanks !

[jwi]

Soon we no longer need to circulate the pdfs. A new edition of Parois de Legende, with some additions should be in the stores in May sometime.

https://www.facebook.com/marion.blanchard.71216/posts/2422585944574979

[submaximal gains]

Hi guys !
Just discovered this forum, I would love to take a look at the bible/book. Could someone please PM me a download link? Thanks !

I'll send you a link

[duncan]

Soon we no longer need to circulate the pdfs. A new edition of Parois de Legende, with some additions should be in the stores in May sometime.

https://www.facebook.com/marion.blanchard.71216/posts/2422585944574979

Excellent. Any idea what has changed? I presume the Saharan crags have been retired and my suggestion of Hoy didn't make the cut!

[jwi]

I saw that Stetind was included in the print proofs. I've heard that they will exclude crags with routes that cannot be accessed in the foreseeable future

[Paul B]

Excellent. Any idea what has changed? I presume the Saharan crags have been retired and my suggestion of Hoy didn't make the cut!

I hope there's an English version.

[jwi]

That probably depends on finding a publisher willing to translate and print an english version. I have the impression that this is rarely done in the UK or US? In Spain or France you can find all the best-selling anglophone titles on climbing in translation.

[duncan]

Soon we no longer need to circulate the pdfs. A new edition of Parois de Legende, with some additions should be in the stores in May sometime.

https://www.facebook.com/marion.blanchard.71216/posts/2422585944574979

Excellent. Any idea what has changed? I presume the Saharan crags have been retired and my suggestion of Hoy didn't make the cut!

The index pages, four in total here give the full run-down. On brief inspection, there are new chapters on Norway, Greece and Oman, the Turkish routes are all different, there are small changes to the USA chapter and Wadi Rum has a greater selection. Mali, Algeria and Namibia are out. My running total is now 23 routes.

That probably depends on finding a publisher willing to translate and print an english version. I have the impression that this is rarely done in the UK or US? In Spain or France you can find all the best-selling anglophone titles on climbing in translation.

Adventure Books / Vertebrate would be the obvious UK choice. They have had several books translated recently: Science of Climbing Training, Mt Blanc Lines, Mont Blanc - The Finest Routes. I'd have thought there was a market but I Am Not A Publisher.

[jwi]

puh... I got a few routes added and none removed from my ticklist.

To be fair, I don't think Parois de Legende has been translated to Spanish, despite that every Spanish multipitch enthusiast that I know is well aware of the book.

Funny enough, if I count correctly using the new selection, I have also a running total of 23 routes!