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Lattice Tall/Short (Read 569 times)

Fultonius

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Lattice Tall/Short
December 15, 2017, 04:47:35 pm
Quote
This builds on earlier points by TT, PJH and Danny regarding lattice testing...

I've not convinced about the climbing is easier for the tall conclusion from the lattice data - and I'm a short climber so could do with the excuse.

It could easily be argued the opposite way - the lattice tests are easier for the short.

I found this an interesting topic and would love some more information and clarification form Tom.


I didn't take it as them saying "climb grade x" is easier for the tall, just that the average person who climbs grade x and is shorter will have higher levels of relative1 finger strength compared to a taller person who can also climb grade x.

They didn't mention anything about the relative difficulty or ease of getting that finger strength!   I.e. who knows, maybe shorties gain finger strength more easily than tall people, so while they "need" more, they don't have to work any harder to make the grade?  :shrug:

Also, they did say taller people need relatively stronger cores. I know for sure that it's harder for taller people to *get* stronger cores. Not many 6 footers doing front levers at my gym, tonnes of shorties doing them though...


What I understood the key thing to take away was - be careful when comparing yourself to others, and following other's training plans etc. I have relatively strong fingers for a taller guy, but on steep ground cannot use that strength well. (i.e. my basic fingerboard finger strength is quite high for the grades I climb, but I flail around on crimps on 35*+)  This new information has made me think that I should focus more on shoulder girdle strength (a weakness of mine) and core strength (active/dynamic) and not worry too much about dangling off a fingerboard.

Might do an assessment....

SA Chris

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#1 Re: Lattice Tall/Short
December 15, 2017, 05:04:32 pm
Unless reach is an advantage, height is a disadvantage?

More height means more weight, less core strength, longer levers and every hand and foothold will be proportionately smaller to a larger finger or toe.

In real terms variations of move / choices of holds etc mean things often balance out on the swing / roundabout principle, but on a lattice board it must be a clear disadvantage.

remus

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#2 Re: Lattice Tall/Short
December 15, 2017, 05:17:50 pm

I found this an interesting topic and would love some more information and clarification form Tom.

I didn't take it as them saying "climb grade x" is easier for the tall, just that the average person who climbs grade x and is shorter will have higher levels of relative1 finger strength compared to a taller person who can also climb grade x.

On the money there.

Quote
They didn't mention anything about the relative difficulty or ease of getting that finger strength!   I.e. who knows, maybe shorties gain finger strength more easily than tall people, so while they "need" more, they don't have to work any harder to make the grade?  :shrug:

Correct again. The effectiveness of particular training regimes is a very interesting topic but also incredibly difficult to study, there's just so many variables that come in to play when people are following exercises.

Quote
What I understood the key thing to take away was - be careful when comparing yourself to others, and following other's training plans etc. I have relatively strong fingers for a taller guy, but on steep ground cannot use that strength well. (i.e. my basic fingerboard finger strength is quite high for the grades I climb, but I flail around on crimps on 35*+)  This new information has made me think that I should focus more on shoulder girdle strength (a weakness of mine) and core strength (active/dynamic) and not worry too much about dangling off a fingerboard.

This is probably the most important point. You need to look at where your weaknesses (relative to the things you want to do) are and work on those, not whatever your mate at the wall happens to be doing at the moment. Of course identifying those weaknesses isn't always easy! If only there was some sort of quantitative assessment protocol designed to find these weaknesses  ;D

alx

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#3 Re: Lattice Tall/Short
December 15, 2017, 06:23:36 pm
Zumba?