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Endurance sessions (Read 2816 times)

ianw

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Endurance sessions
December 22, 2017, 09:26:17 am
I have a short trip to Spain booked for the 17th January. I want to redpoint a 30 metre 7a+ over the 4 days I am there.

I currently climb around V5 and train at BUK where we have a good mixture of 10-14 move boulder problems, 14 move circuits on a 15 degree board 6a + - 6c+ and longer circuits on a steeper 25 degree board, (7a+ - 9a).

I currently climb 4 times per week, with sessions lasting 2 hours.

My question then is how many of the 4 weekly sessions should I devote to training endurance and what would your session look like?

Thanks in advance.

mrjonathanr

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#1 Re: Endurance sessions
December 22, 2017, 01:47:55 pm
According to Matt Fitzgerald (http://racingweight.com -both books are quite an interesting read) elite endurance athletes train at 80/20% low/high intensity- and all other endurance athletes should too.

In other words most endurance athletes do too little low intensity training. That said application to a more strength based sport like climbing isn’t straightforward, but should give food for thought.

4x4 boulder problems are good for not pumping out on the crux IMO, pure stamina for not wilting before the chains.

Others with more expertise will be along to comment shortly no doubt.

Fultonius

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#2 Re: Endurance sessions
December 22, 2017, 05:32:12 pm
I'd say you're perhaps a little late in asking it...but that's where we're at.

If it were me I'd do:

Week1 - Session 1: Warm up 20 mins of continuous light climbing. 20-30 move circuit at around onsight level or just below, equal time on the wall as off. 8 laps.
Session 2: Warm up 20 mins of continuous light climbing. 15 move hard boulder, 2-3 mins rest, repeat 4 times. rest 10, do same again.

Pretty much repeat this for 3 weeks, with maybe half a session a week of bouldering.

Then just chill and go on holiday.

Where in Spain are you going, do you have a particular route in mind? Is it cruxy, continuous, any rests?  Have you climbed 7a+ before?  Doing a limit redpoint over 4 days can be tricky as you'll have no chance of rest, so you'll have to manage fatigue/recovery well.

Sidehaas

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#3 Re: Endurance sessions
December 22, 2017, 07:04:29 pm
I made really good improvements in 3-4 weeks once by doing foot on campus (FoC) training on my fingerboard (ie just up and down between the top and bottom holds) to failure 3x per week. Each session was a warm-up 8-9ish reps; each rep should be timed FoC to failure followed by a rest time equal to your previous 'climbing' time.  I continued until the times plateaued. The whole session only took about 40 minutes. It was the most pumped I've ever been.
In theory this is aeropow training. It was for 15-20m routes rather than 30m and I might have already had a decent long term aerocap base, but it certainly worked really well. Given the time you have,  this is what I'd recommend.
Si

ghisino

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#4 Re: Endurance sessions
December 22, 2017, 11:55:31 pm
I would do it as follows:

1st session after your weekly rest: bouldering as usual.

2nd session: trying a "circuit project". Ideally a link up of two 25-move circuits of similar difficulty, traversing with good holds in between the two. You should be falling in the last quarter of the link up, and "redpoint" it in two sessions. Rest 10 min in between reps, at least 6 tries.

3rd session
Many easier circuits with short rests, and/or continuous climbing for 10/15 minutes (never getting on the ground, always moving). Adjust volume and intensity based on the fatigue you get from the previous session.

4th session :
Same as 2nd session, or 4x4.


During the last week:
1st session :4/5 repeats of your "best" circuit link ups. Massive rest times.

2nd session
Easy and lazy session. Focus more on the climbing pace, hold type and movement styles that you expect to find on your 7a+, than on difficulty.

3rd session
Bouldering. Stop when you feel that you are fully warmed up and ready to hit the peak of your session's performance. Mega resting times.

ianw

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#5 Re: Endurance sessions
December 24, 2017, 08:17:30 am
Thanks for all your replys. Loads to be thinking about and putting into practice over the coming weeks. Thanks for your help!

Teaboy

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#6 Re: Endurance sessions
December 24, 2017, 10:54:32 am
I know little about training g hut can tell you that if you can do either the red or green circuits on the easier circuit board at BUK you will be capable of getting up a 7a+ at Siurana. A good one to go on is the first pitch of Costa Panic

 

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