Cheers Andy. I should have been clearer RE the last one - I'm not claiming sitter to Blair Witch as new, I know its been done before (by Adam Wood / Ferret of this parish on original FA), I was just letting folk know I'd cleaned it up! I admit my original post isn't clear on this.
Un-named Font 7a+ ishClimbs the arete of Crozzle Slab on its left hand side from a sit start, finishing up the beckoning hanging crack in the middle of the face. This is a pretty good problem, well worth doing. Needs a couple of pads to pack out the landing, and one to start off unless you're a giant. I know there is a problem called Bristol Stool 5 which does something on the wall from a stand maybe using the crack as a gaston but I couldn't make head nor tail of it! Anyone know anything? Vid:
Nice one. I've tried this off and on for a while - mostly chickened out due to not having pads (when trying it with DT90) or just being a bit soft when trying it on my own with inadequate pads. I had decided it was about 7B on a cold day, but couldn't string it together - I wanted to stick more to the arete to start with - maybe this will go too at some point
Quote from: Nigel on October 19, 2017, 02:40:54 pmCheers Andy. I should have been clearer RE the last one - I'm not claiming sitter to Blair Witch as new, I know its been done before (by Adam Wood / Ferret of this parish on original FA), I was just letting folk know I'd cleaned it up! I admit my original post isn't clear on this.Yeah I think this is how I climbed it, but it might have been matched on the right hand hold. Good little problem, shame it is always so green, effort cleaning it. I think if it was regularly climbed it would stay OK, but the location limits its popularity a bit.
Some possible new problems at Stanage Plantation I did the other day. I'm not going to name anything yet as I'll see what retroclaims come out - some of these may well have been done before. Equally a couple of them may be worth forgetting! However most are worthwhile, so here's the info:Two Legged Stool Font 7a+ ishClimbs the arete of Crozzle Slab on its left hand side from a sit start, finishing up the beckoning hanging crack in the middle of the face. This is a pretty good problem, well worth doing. Needs a couple of pads to pack out the landing, and one to start off unless you're a giant. I know there is a problem called Bristol Stool 5 which does something on the wall from a stand maybe using the crack as a gaston but I couldn't make head nor tail of it! Anyone know anything? Vid:Heronic Dive Font 6b ishBetween the Hourglass Boulder and the Lone Boulder there are 3 boulders about 5m right of the higher path. This climbs the arete of the middle boulder from a sit start via nice holds. Worthwhile. Vid:March of the Tin Soldiers Font 6a ishJust to the right of the last problem and round the corner is a problem starting up flakes and into a mantle finish. It's alright, though short-lived. Prob done before. Vid (including orientation change!):Deaf Fur Land Font 5 ishOn the next boulder left is a short overhang. Starting from the back overcome this either via palming to reach slopes, or via an arching dyno. Fun. Prob done before. Pic:https://imgur.com/99AcsquToupee Font 5 ishWedge thing on the walk up to Gothic Armpit area. Actually a good problem but spoilt by proximity to cracks and epic heather top out. Probably destined to be forgotten but vid here if you fancy it:Yelp! Font 6b ishBasically a direct start to the pocket on the route Big Screams. A stiff pull from a two finger pocket via the big slopey one then you're up. Good moves and rock but again short-lived. Vid:Corbyn Wizard Affair Font 7a ishOn the Blair Witch boulder down in the trees, a traverse of the block starting on an obvious jug on left then squeezing rightwards past the tree (crux!) to a roll up finish. Good climbing but the tree is a pain, especially if you're fat.Finally I cleaned up Blair Witch and did it from a sitter on the block. Really good and worth seeking out, around about 7a from the sit. Vid: