[Nigel]

Some possible new problems at Stanage Plantation I did the other day. I'm not going to name anything yet as I'll see what retroclaims come out - some of these may well have been done before. Equally a couple of them may be worth forgetting! However most are worthwhile, so here's the info:

Un-named Font 7a+ ish
Climbs the arete of Crozzle Slab on its left hand side from a sit start, finishing up the beckoning hanging crack in the middle of the face. This is a pretty good problem, well worth doing. Needs a couple of pads to pack out the landing, and one to start off unless you're a giant. I know there is a problem called Bristol Stool 5 which does something on the wall from a stand maybe using the crack as a gaston but I couldn't make head nor tail of it! Anyone know anything? Vid:




Un-named Font 6b ish
Between the Hourglass Boulder and the Lone Boulder there are 3 boulders about 5m right of the higher path. This climbs the arete of the middle boulder from a sit start via nice holds. Worthwhile. Vid:




Un-named Font 6a ish
Just to the right of the last problem and round the corner is a problem starting up flakes and into a mantle finish. It's alright, though short-lived. Prob done before. Vid (including orientation change!):




Un-named Font 5 ish
On the next boulder left is a short overhang. Starting from the back overcome this either via palming to reach slopes, or via an arching dyno. Fun. Prob done before. Pic:

https://imgur.com/99Acsqu


Un-named Font 5 ish
Wedge thing on the walk up to Gothic Armpit area. Actually a good problem but spoilt by proximity to cracks and epic heather top out. Probably destined to be forgotten but vid here if you fancy it:




Un-named Font 6b ish
Basically a direct start to the pocket on the route Big Screams. A stiff pull from a two finger pocket via the big slopey one then you're up. Good moves and rock but again short-lived. Vid:




Un-named Font 7a ish
On the Blair Witch boulder down in the trees, a traverse of the block starting on an obvious jug on left then squeezing rightwards past the tree (crux!) to a roll up finish. Good climbing but the tree is a pain, especially if you're fat.




Finally I cleaned up Blair Witch and did it from a sitter on the block. Really good and worth seeking out, around about 7a from the sit. Vid:

[BAndy]

I'm pretty sure I did Blair Witch from sitting as it seemed a bit too short to miss the extra move. I'm not trying to retroclaim though as I suspect it was done from sitting before I got there. Good problem.

The other problem on that block looks good. I think I did some kind of mantel through the traverse but certainly didn't do the traverse itself.

[Nigel]

Cheers Andy. I should have been clearer RE the last one - I'm not claiming sitter to Blair Witch as new, I know its been done before (by Adam Wood / Ferret of this parish on original FA), I was just letting folk know I'd cleaned it up! I admit my original post isn't clear on this.

[bigironhorse]

Good stuff. 7A Traverse looks great, is it easy to find?

[dave]

Great to see that headband again. Lovely stuff.

[Nigel]

Yeah its easy to find. Walk up Plantation path from car park. Once through the first gate there is a boulder just left of the path. Turn 90 degrees left off the path here and head in that line for about 150m passing a few smaller boulders on the way. The Blair Witch boulder is in the bottom SW corner of the plantation of trees. Alternatively from Plantation boulders head down path through the main path gate (not the new one direct to business boulder etc) and drop down into trees by the stream. Head straight down hill, you'll come across boulder just before lower edge of plantation.

[Monolith]

Nice work Nige! These look ace.

[Wood FT]

Super stylin’

Prolific, trav one looks like font

[ferret]

Cheers Andy. I should have been clearer RE the last one - I'm not claiming sitter to Blair Witch as new, I know its been done before (by Adam Wood / Ferret of this parish on original FA), I was just letting folk know I'd cleaned it up! I admit my original post isn't clear on this.

Yeah I think this is how I climbed it, but it might have been matched on the right hand hold. Good little problem, shame it is always so green, effort cleaning it. I think if it was regularly climbed it would stay OK, but the location limits its popularity a bit.

[lagerstarfish]

Un-named Font 7a+ ish
Climbs the arete of Crozzle Slab on its left hand side from a sit start, finishing up the beckoning hanging crack in the middle of the face. This is a pretty good problem, well worth doing. Needs a couple of pads to pack out the landing, and one to start off unless you're a giant. I know there is a problem called Bristol Stool 5 which does something on the wall from a stand maybe using the crack as a gaston but I couldn't make head nor tail of it! Anyone know anything? Vid:

Nice one. I've tried this off and on for a while - mostly chickened out due to not having pads (when trying it with DT90) or just being a bit soft when trying it on my own with inadequate pads. I had decided it was about 7B on a cold day, but couldn't string it together - I wanted to stick more to the arete to start with - maybe this will go too at some point

[Nigel]

Nice one. I've tried this off and on for a while - mostly chickened out due to not having pads (when trying it with DT90) or just being a bit soft when trying it on my own with inadequate pads. I had decided it was about 7B on a cold day, but couldn't string it together - I wanted to stick more to the arete to start with - maybe this will go too at some point

Nice one, I thought someone must have tried this before, too obvious a line not to have! I suspect you'd have more joy with decent padding, it makes a hell of a difference. I've got a taco Black Diamond one which is great for bridging gaps between blocks like there are under this as it is very keen to stay as a taco even when "open"! Means you can put a pad flat on top and then the landing is sound.

You might be right about it being 7b, I like to be conservative with FA's though as better sequences always get found. Time will tell. My original plan was to climb the arete on its left, which I did do the moves on from a sitter, but the way I was trying it I realised that my left hand was waving past the crack on its way back to the arete so it made sense to use it i.e. made arete only feel eliminate. Obviously midgets will not reach it, although I'm 5'9" with same in reach so most should be able to. Also the finish is arguably easier getting the two lip edges and rocking back right around the arete but this seemed less satisfying and independent than finishing up the crack so I opted for that way. I guess if you think of it as "start sitting to finish up crack, anything allowed" rather than "arete on left" the concept is clear. Good luck if you get on it again.

[Nigel]

Cheers Andy. I should have been clearer RE the last one - I'm not claiming sitter to Blair Witch as new, I know its been done before (by Adam Wood / Ferret of this parish on original FA), I was just letting folk know I'd cleaned it up! I admit my original post isn't clear on this.

Yeah I think this is how I climbed it, but it might have been matched on the right hand hold. Good little problem, shame it is always so green, effort cleaning it. I think if it was regularly climbed it would stay OK, but the location limits its popularity a bit.

Ay up mate, just noticed your reply, somehow missed it earlier! Hope you're well over there. Great problem this, I'll keep pointing people in its direction and doing it periodically myself to keep it clean. Deserves traffic.

[cowboyhat]

This whole thread is a showcase for some alternate sartorial stylings available to the 21st century renaissance boulderer.

[Nigel]

When I posted originally I thought there might be some retro claims so didn't name the new problems. I'm going away soon so thought I'd better do it while I remember. Names in quote below. Anyone done any of these yet? Or the new things at Higgar?

Some possible new problems at Stanage Plantation I did the other day. I'm not going to name anything yet as I'll see what retroclaims come out - some of these may well have been done before. Equally a couple of them may be worth forgetting! However most are worthwhile, so here's the info:

Two Legged Stool Font 7a+ ish
Climbs the arete of Crozzle Slab on its left hand side from a sit start, finishing up the beckoning hanging crack in the middle of the face. This is a pretty good problem, well worth doing. Needs a couple of pads to pack out the landing, and one to start off unless you're a giant. I know there is a problem called Bristol Stool 5 which does something on the wall from a stand maybe using the crack as a gaston but I couldn't make head nor tail of it! Anyone know anything? Vid:




Heronic Dive Font 6b ish
Between the Hourglass Boulder and the Lone Boulder there are 3 boulders about 5m right of the higher path. This climbs the arete of the middle boulder from a sit start via nice holds. Worthwhile. Vid:




March of the Tin Soldiers Font 6a ish
Just to the right of the last problem and round the corner is a problem starting up flakes and into a mantle finish. It's alright, though short-lived. Prob done before. Vid (including orientation change!):




Deaf Fur Land Font 5 ish
On the next boulder left is a short overhang. Starting from the back overcome this either via palming to reach slopes, or via an arching dyno. Fun. Prob done before. Pic:

https://imgur.com/99Acsqu


Toupee Font 5 ish
Wedge thing on the walk up to Gothic Armpit area. Actually a good problem but spoilt by proximity to cracks and epic heather top out. Probably destined to be forgotten but vid here if you fancy it:




Yelp! Font 6b ish
Basically a direct start to the pocket on the route Big Screams. A stiff pull from a two finger pocket via the big slopey one then you're up. Good moves and rock but again short-lived. Vid:




Corbyn Wizard Affair Font 7a ish
On the Blair Witch boulder down in the trees, a traverse of the block starting on an obvious jug on left then squeezing rightwards past the tree (crux!) to a roll up finish. Good climbing but the tree is a pain, especially if you're fat.




Finally I cleaned up Blair Witch and did it from a sitter on the block. Really good and worth seeking out, around about 7a from the sit. Vid: