[Reprobate_Rob]

Mirf's was in a fucking disgraceful state yesterday evening - chalk caked into every single hold on the entire block. Journey to the centre, Mirf's, Burly, the lot. Didn't look like many of them had actually been used either. Tick marks all over the place.

Also discovered that the flake in the roof for Ned's thing - Girthy McMirfy is no longer attached. It'd been left at the back of the roof, by the start to Mirf's in 2/3 pieces. I've no idea whether it's glueable, but it's there if anyone is interested. Girthy won't be possible without it I don't think (not that I'd be anywhere near doing it myself).

I cleaned the chalky mess up as best I could, and the rain coming will probably finish the job but it really winds me up the state this block is so often left in 

[Mirf]

 

[Ru]

Sounds like someone tried to climb it whilst it was wet.

[rainbow]

I’m as guilty as the next person for not removing tick marks/excessive chalk on holds. We all need to make more of an effort with this. I’ve not been up that way since last Oct so don’t know state of play with the hold on Burly McFreewilly. If anyone is up that way before Sun could they make sure said hold is tucked in one of the deep breaks at the start of Mirfs. I’ll prob have a look at it Sun and put it back on with epoxy and plenty of sand to make it blend in. If everybody is ok with that.

[dave]

Went back here today, last time I went was 2.5 yrs ago. There seems to have been a decent crimp/edge appear on the topout of Mirf's Roof, directly above the rounded double-handed rung hold. What's the deal with that? Almost looked like it had been chipped and then stabilised. Seems to have made the topout substantially easier than it was before.

[dave]

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

[tomtom]

Anyone? Anyone? Bueller?

Sorry mate - been winding back the clock on my ferrari...

[Bonjoy]

Did you get any pics Dave? I've probably got some old shots to compare against. You sure it's not just foothold wear on massively soft pockets? I tried stabilising the one used for a heelhook on Burly McMirfy a couple of years back but remember thinking it  was unlikely to last.

[Reprobate_Rob]

The edge Dave's on about is right at the top of the exit to Mirfs, above all the pockets. It's been around a couple of years now. Looked to me like a slice of rock had sheared off when stood on whilst topping out, leaving a little edge. Unfortunately does make the top a bit easier, but the ongoing erosion of the big sandy pockets probably balances things out.

[Bonjoy]

Okay cheers. I do remember the top having some thin flaky bits. I hope the pockets (crucially ones used for feet on the topout)are getting a regular bit of superglue, if not they'll be fully blown out in no time at all.

[dave]

The main pocket (that you have with LH on Mirfs and that folk are heelhooking on that copout version of Burly McMirfy) has an ugly black rim of thick glue, i.e. looks like putty not superglue. The pocket just left of it, smaller, which might be a handhold used by some on the 8a traverse, looks like it's getting worn too.

[rainbow]

I haven’t been up there since May, think I know which hold onto you mean. Long before the guidebook came out, an small edge appeared which exposed softer rock, I guess this has been brushed and brushed making it larger as folk now use it to top out.
The black glue on the pocket lower is actually black volcanic sand mixed with a tiny about of Churnet sand. This isn’t the long term solution for that hold. It’s easy to apply the epoxy to form a hold in the same size and shape before it eroded. The big dilemma was/is how to colour match it. If we just sprinkle Churnet sand onto epoxy this would create a really good likeness during the dry summer months, add chalk and it would be hard to tell the difference. My main concern was the winter months, that block darkens quite dramatically during that period. If it was just the sand that would stand out so much against the dark wet block during the winter. I figured if I used the black volcanic sand, during the wet periods that would look the most natural, and let everyone’s chalk camouflaged it during the summer. I had planned to leave it this winter and see the likeness and maybe in the spring next year redo it to make it the correct shape and shade by adding more local sand and/or red brick sand.
Apologies to anyone who thinks it looks ugly, thought it would be prudent to do something while there was still a hold there.I haven’t been up there since May, think I know which hold onto you mean. Long before the guidebook came out, an small edge appeared which exposed softer rock, I guess this has been brushed and brushed making it larger as folk now use it to top out.
The black glue on the pocket lower is actually black volcanic sand mixed with a tiny about of Churnet sand. This isn’t the long term solution for that hold. It’s easy to apply the epoxy to form a hold in the same size and shape before it eroded. The big dilemma was/is how to colour match it. If we just sprinkle Churnet sand onto epoxy this would create a really good likeness during the dry summer months, add chalk and it would be hard to tell the difference. My main concern was the winter months, that block darkens quite dramatically during that period. If it was just the sand that would stand out so much against the dark wet block during the winter. I figured if I used the black volcanic sand, during the wet periods that would look the most natural, and let everyone’s chalk camouflaged it during the summer. I had planned to leave it this winter and see the likeness and maybe in the spring next year redo it to make it the correct shape and shade by adding more local sand and/or red brick sand.
Apologies to anyone who thinks it looks ugly, thought it would be prudent to do something while there was still a hold there

[webbo]

Groundhog Day

[dave]

TBH when I say ugly I mean it kinda sticks out a bit, but clearly less ugly than just letting the hold go to shit. Not having a go cos I think it's great that someone has taken an interest enough to do something about it.

During winter isn't the whole thing just too damp to climb anyway, especially lower down?

[rainbow]

Underneath the roof stays pretty dry all winter. The headwall and top out stays damp and dirty. Nowhere near as bad as I made out in the guide. The clearance work the FC did, helped out massively with that. With all the tree cover during that wet year of 2012, it only dried out for two weeks of the entire year.
I wanted it to blend in during the winter so no non climbers would spot it. Landowners etc. I'll keep an eye on it and hopefully I can sort something out by next spring.

[Coops_13]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread...

Thinking of giving Mirf's a go this weekend but a mate had heard footholds have broken meaning it's not possible. There's been a couple of recent ascents on UKC so just wanted to check if any locals had more recent info?