[Pantontino]

I've always been torn between chasing new lines, new crags and fresh experiences...and consolidating my 'CV', so to speak, with classic test pieces.

I  guess I find it difficult to maintain a focus on one or the other. If I do too much exploratory stuff, a nagging voice in my head tells me I'm getting weak, losing my edge. Yet if I get stuck into a long term repeat project, such as Jerry's Roof, which is currently occupying my thoughts, I keep looking across the valley at all the unclimbed lines, wondering if I should be doing something else instead?

I try to get the mix right, but mostly end up confused.

Anybody else thus afflicted?

[Fiend]

Probably not an issue for the average V3 climbing living next to the Peak District  :wink:

[c.j.d.]

Now Now Simon, I'm sure it won't take that much longer!  I know what you mean though - I've spent the whole summer repeating things, and sadly pulling on plastic, when, really, I should be doing what i love best - new ascents, and lets face it - there is some gems to be had at the moment!  See you at the roof!

[Terrace Ghost]

the only thing that occupies my mind is gash.

[Bonjoy]

Know what you mean Pant's, am tangled with Mecca at the moment but would much rather be getting out trying projects on grit. It get's to a point where you just want rid of a climb but you don't want to throw away all the work you've put in :roll: . Eee well, just got to keep plugging away.

[Bubba]

How's Mecca going?

[Bonjoy]

Pretty good really. Went on it today, got to the undercuts at the top of the groove three times on redpoint. 'It's just very sustained' and eats the skin on your left hand. Just need to get there feeling good with some good conditions and it should go.

[Bubba]

:  Should start cooling down a bit now so hopefully you can bag in time for the bouldering season....

[Fingers of a Martyr]

isn't mecca 8c?  :shock:

[Bubba]

8b+....but then there's always the Mecca Extension at 8c when you can do Mecca easily  

Bonjoy ain't no slouch  :worthy:

[Fingers of a Martyr]

:shock: machine  :shock:

[Bubba]

Mecca pics:

[Fingers of a Martyr]

which ones bonjoy? :wink:  

okay off topic again but did anyone else go  :?  :?:   when they read ghost terrace's comment about 'gash'? what was that about?

[Bubba]

That'll be Steve mac and Zippy on Mecca - I've only ever watched John Welford on that route and it looked insanely hard.

I had no idea what the gash comment was about either  :?

Anyway, dragging this back on topic....if there's first ascents to be done then that's definitely what I prefer. I used to love unearthing Wye Valley routes and climbing them afresh - nothing quite like it; a bit of creativity in a way; but then I suppose it's too easy to get obsessed by the whole new route fever and end up like Gary Gibson. Not dissing the Gibson, he's created an incredible amount of routes (though he did nearly drop a TV sized block on my head once  :evil: )....but I wonder if by being so single-minded you miss out on a lot of classic climbing that's been done before and by others?

[Terrace Ghost]

sorry about that rude comment.  hope everybody had a good day climbing, i went to Earl and the conditions were bon.

[Bubba]

No worries terrace  :wink:

I might have to resize your avatar mind....

[dave]

for the benefit of FOAM

gash either means one of 2 things:

1. rubbish/crap/useless/shite
2. punani

i think he meant the latter.

[Greg C]

Must be nice to do a first ascent! Everything round are way was done 20 years ago by John The Gardener :roll:

[Paz]

but I wonder if by being so single-minded you miss out on a lot of classic climbing that's been done before and by others?

I wonder about that too, but to put up some new routes you need to know where existing ones (don't) go, and I heard Gary liked to do the Bancroft/Allen grit classics.  I dare say he and people like Martin Crocker or Pete Oxley have done shit loads of classic routes already.  There's video footage of MC repeating a stunning line at Pembroke - it's Gary's.  GG and MC have been climbing longer than I've been alive.  What were you up to in the late 70s?  

Even if they haven't made the effort to clear up all of scotland or the lake district, but there's weather issues and if you have to ab down to clean a route there it might as well be your own new one!  I think the list of popular classic E5's and 6s (not just things that get 3 stars in the guide) is maybe a lot less than the total number of routes of that grade.  There's a comparision of one of Martin's E6s on Cader Idris and the similar Lord OTF in the Meirionydd guide that suggests the appropriate approach for each route because of this.

[SA Chris]

isn't mecca 8c?  :shock:

But that's outdoor climbing with ropes, which we don't want you to show an interest in at the moment.

[Doylo]

fuck the grit jon, get it done  :wink: You don't wanna have to start from scratch next year :!:
I is in yosemite, nice granite and problems but loads of hommes and stupid laws. Land of the free my arse.