Training for slabs (Read 3416 times)


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#25 Re: Training for slabs
November 10, 2017, 05:58:56 pm
Keep your heels low and still, wear the right shoes for the job
Can't think of any great training, just practise and messing around bouldering on easy slabs, Although one thing I sometimes do as a warm up is put one foot on a knee height rock and bounce onto it without flicking off your toes on the lower foot, or really digging with the high foot. Just try and float up from your knees/hip/core and try on various heights and from different angles, piroueting onto it etc. Obviously you look like a complete twat as you do this. But as slabs get thinner it's quite important to be able to move your weight onto your higher foot without stomping onto it or sharply pushing/flicking off the lower foot causing it to slip

Dan Cheetham

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#26 Re: Training for slabs
November 11, 2017, 08:46:54 pm
I've never been able to get the heels low thing to work for me, don't know why as it makes sense but I always end up trying to stand on my tip toes. Remember Richie Patta saying keep your heels low on a day out to Caley about 20yrs ago. Still can't do it now.

nik at work

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#27 Re: Training for slabs
November 11, 2017, 09:51:43 pm
I'm with Johnny on this, I just think its difficult hard to mimic really poor foothold - though the fact Nik thinks it can work should make us think again, given his abilities. I don't even know if its that important to have strong legs.
Andy you charmer  :-[

May be it works, maybe it doesn't :shrug: I can't imagine it does any harm.


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#28 Re: Training for slabs
November 12, 2017, 12:40:50 pm
 Currently in Font for a month with a tweaked ACL and a crocked shoulder, so easy slabs seem to be the order of the day - having knees that don't wobble would seem to be the single most important thing to me.
Hopping onto the better left knee is so much easier than the right one, I have strong calves from work but that's no use if the knees make circles everyone you move. Pistol squats are decades in the past for me but if I had good knees, that's what I'd be training after Font.


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#29 Re: Training for slabs
November 23, 2017, 01:54:28 pm
I remember reading/hearing about a mini wooden (sandpaper?) slab training set up that Ben Heason used. I assume it was to build up calf muscle endurance. Crossed my mind to make one, when I was into grit slabs, but never bothered.


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#30 Re: Training for slabs
March 13, 2018, 10:33:26 am
Just found this great image

in this great article celebrating 20 years since Hard Grit was released.


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#31 Re: Training for slabs
March 13, 2018, 12:22:30 pm
Fantastic article!