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[Peak] [Dovestones Tor] [Squawk Buttress] [Stuff] (Read 1524 times)

cofe

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Me and Dave did a couple of new things on Squawk Buttress during a fun session up Derwent late summer. Thought I'd write up what I know on the block - good, steep, positive climbing, in a Howshaw style of summer grit. A line on the big jutting prow above this lot seems like an obvious project for the bendy-legged, 8c-climbing fat lad or one of his peers.



1. 6a+ Good arete from sitting, must have been done before. Slightly dabby start, but on jugs. Great finish.

2. Ultralight Beam 6c+ Sit start in the middle of the buttress and move up past a RH flake crimp and a thin undercut to join and finish left along Squawk Traverse. FA Me, August 2017.

3. Kestrel Manoeuvres in the Dark 7b Sit start right and take the pinch of the next problem with one's right hand and rock left past a tricky foot move to gain and finish along Squawk Traverse. FA Dave, August 2017.

4. Squawk Traverse Direct 7a Sit start, take the pinch with the left and make a fun throw to jugs. Finish left along the traverse.

5. Squawk Traverse 6c Stand start from the lowest jug and head up and then left to the obvious line below the roof. Follow this left, finishing up 1 without using any blocks for feet.

6. Squawk 6b The original. As for the previous problem but keep heading up the high wall.

Dave on problem 1/the finish to the others:



Dave on Ultralight Beam:


 

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