[ghisino]

for a very specific project, i am looking for a shoe with very specific attributes.

list:

-relatively wide and round/square but very low toe box (flattish toes even if you size small, no way to have them really curled)

-high camber, i.e. downturn in the middle of the shoe (arch rather than toes)

-no laces or velcros at the front of the shoe.

-at least moderately stiff.


any ideas???

[jshaw]

Maybe the old evolv optimus prime?

[abarro81]

If this is for toe hooks I reckon you've got the wrong criteria. .

[ghisino]

not really for toe hooks.

i'm more after a steep crack climbing shoe that can still be half decent at heel hooking and pushing on small footholds on a 45deg wall.

semi-tight moccs (half size smaller than the ideal crack size) are my current best compromise for the job. Ok heel, just brilliant on the toe jams. they really suck on those small footholds though.

 

[dave]

Wildcard suggestion - barefoot, or with feet taped up? Works for that Font crusty guy.

[Danny]

5.10 pitons.

[Nutty]

La Sportiva Skwama? Might not meet the flattish toes requirement, but would seem to meet everything else? Supposed to be good for crack climbing according to outdoor gear lab (not used them myself): https://www.outdoorgearlab.com/reviews/climbing/climbing-shoes/la-sportiva-skwama

[sxrxg]

Red Chili Nacho might fit the bill if you can find a pair (they are a discontinued model - I recently had to buy some from Poland to replace my aging ones!). They are similar to a 5:10 Mocc with rubber over the toes and a thin fibre glass mid-sole for better edging. Even when sized small the flat toe box doesn't allow the toes to get too curled up.

There is a review available here: https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/06/23/red-chili-nacho-climbing-gear-review/

[benpritch]

La sportiva TC Pros? https://www.lasportiva.com/en/tc-pro

[ghisino]

La sportiva TC Pros? https://www.lasportiva.com/en/tc-pro

not really convinced about the high top for this specific case.

one shoe was thinking about is arrowheads, as i liked worn out, unlaced quantums (the old purple ones) on one  remotely similar occasion (sadly i don't have them anymore). 

[Mushin]

scarpa vapor (lace) or katana lace.

or maybe those new sportivas, otaki or the lace version

[Drew]

Scarpa Maestro?

[andy_e]

Hijacking this thread for my own benefit, sorry.

I'm after a Dragon replacement. I have annoying narrow heels that dragons fitted pefectly, and the laces mean that I can tighten up properly around my narrow feet. Generally, the Scarpa toe box is too wide. So, are there any narrow-footed lace-ups that go quite soft?

[spidermonkey09]

I have been using Ladies Miura lace ups for the last year on the limestone, and since they lost their initial stiffness, for bouldering on the grit. I also have narrow feet and don't like velcro for this reason, and I don't get on with Scarpas. They are far and away the best shoe I have ever worn. This may be down to the fact they actually fit my foot properly (years of wearing ill fitting blancos and comfy trad shoes which were, in hindsight, too big), but it feels like the heel is extremely solid in them. I fully intend to buy them as long as they make them, although irritatingly they've just changed the colour to a grim green/pink combo.

That said, they aren't a like for like replacement for dragons as they aren't downturned and will take a while to soften up. Might be worth a look though as a workhorse shoe, even if not suited to hard bouldering probably.

[andy_e]

Hmm, interesting, thanks. I should have stated that I think I need the downturn to keep the heel on as tight as possible, as well as for use on steep rock.

The Scarpa Chimeras were recommended to me as they're narrow, downturned lace-ups, but I'm reluctant to wear something that looks like the inside of a clown's underwear drawer.

[Bradders]

I've just bought a pair of Chimeras. Yet to use them on rock as I'm still breaking them in but have found them to be brilliant on steep plastic so far. The Drago would be a very similar, albeit slightly softer, alternative if you can't bear the design (I think the Chimeras are just as garish as any others though really).

[nik at work]

What size do you take Andy?
I have a pair of pretty much mint dragons at a size that I am unlikely to be able to ever justify cramming my arthritic feet into. I suspect they might be 7.5 or 8 but that is pure speculation on my part. However if they could potentially be used to extend your transition period I'll check the sizing.

[andy_e]

Ach nein, I'm size nine! Thanks for the offer though (unless you check and they're bigger than you remember, in which case I'll have them!)

[sxrxg]

Have you tried the evolv oracle? Downturned lace up that has been recently released. Not used them myself so not sure of the fit/stiffness.

[andy_e]

As anyone down the Leeds Depot can attest, I'm not a fan of the Nexxos so I'm reluctant to give them a try, but Evolv have worked for me in the past, so maybe I should!

[jamesturnbull97]

Have you tried the evolv oracle? Downturned lace up that has been recently released. Not used them myself so not sure of the fit/stiffness.

I danger of sounding bias I really like the new Oracles. The fit is definitely wider than a dragon, they have a much bigger toe box then the dragons. Out of the box they are stiffer but will soften up quickly.

[Andy F]

What you need is something with the Stix V2 toe, an Instinct heel and single velcro strap.

But it doesn't exist because Scarpa don't fucking make it 

[weakdave]

I have neve tried them but Tenaya shoes are usually narrow. What about the Tarifa? I only know one person that has used them but they liked them

[Sasquatch]

I'm not completely "in the know" on this, but I understand the former head of design at five ten has now started a company called un parallel up, and I think this is basically the dragon...

https://www.unparallelsports.com/product/sirius/