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Angela Eiter becomes the first woman to climb 9b (Read 29828 times)

Kingy

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Sticking his head over the parapet there!  :P

sdm

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Looks like Angela Eiter has added a ~9b first ascent of Madame Ching in Austria:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CI2u1jVnCEt/?igshid=11bqyi2h4fhoe

She doesn't commit to a grade but said it was as hard as Planta de Shiva.

There's footage on over-caffeinated sugary drink company's website (link in her bio).

DAVETHOMAS90

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Looks like Angela Eiter has added a ~9b first ascent of Madame Ching in Austria:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CI2u1jVnCEt/?igshid=11bqyi2h4fhoe

She doesn't commit to a grade but said it was as hard as Planta de Shiva.

There's footage on over-caffeinated sugary drink company's website (link in her bio).

What's her L-sit score?

Bradders

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Fantastic for her.

Would be interesting to see an update of the list in the first page of this thread, on people who've climbed 9b. If this is her second I imagine that puts her in an absolutely tiny group of people who've done more than one?

Wood FT

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grotty looking rock, I respect that.

JohnM

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Looks like Angela Eiter has added a ~9b first ascent of Madame Ching in Austria:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CI2u1jVnCEt/?igshid=11bqyi2h4fhoe

She doesn't commit to a grade but said it was as hard as Planta de Shiva.

There's footage on over-caffeinated sugary drink company's website (link in her bio).

She looks ill in that video.

remus

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Would be interesting to see an update of the list in the first page of this thread, on people who've climbed 9b. If this is her second I imagine that puts her in an absolutely tiny group of people who've done more than one?

Word up to jwi as this is largely based on his list https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=29904.0

Adam Ondra, 9c, Silence
Alex Megos, 9c, Bibliographie
Stefano Ghisolfi, 9b+, Change, Perfecto Mundo
Chris Sharma, 9b+, La Dura Dura
Jakob Schubert, 9b+, Perfecto Mundo
Sébastien Bouin, 9b, Mamichula, La Rage d'Adam, Move, The Dream, Les Yeux Plus Gros que l'Antre
Sachi Amma, 9b, Fight or Flight, Stoking the Fire, Soul Mate
Dani Andrada, 9b, Ali Hulk (extension sit start), Delincuente Natural (extension)
Angela Eiter, 9b, Madame Ching, La Planta de Shiva
Jonathan Siegrest, 9b, La Planta de Shiva, Jumbo Love
Jorge Díaz-Rullo, 9b, Ali Hulk (extension total sit start), La Planta de Shiva
Jonatan Flor, 9b, Ali Hulk (extension total sit start), La Planta de Shiva
Magnus Midtbø, 9b, Ali Hulk (extension sit start)
Ethan Pringle, 9b, Jumbo Love
Steve McClure, 9b, Rainman
Daniel Woods, 9b, La Capella
Matty Hong, 9b, Fight or Flight
Pirmin Bertle, 9b, La Barrière
Piotr Schab, 9b, Fight or Flight
Jonathan Guadalcázar, 9b, Ataxia Hiperextension
Hugo Parmentier, 9b, Eagle-4
Will Bosi, 9b, La Capella
Alessandro Zeni, 9b, Cryptography
Laura Rogora, 9b, Ali Hulk (extension total sit start)
Dani Fuertes, 9b, Ali Hulk (extension total sit start)
Hyunbin Min, 9b, Soul Rock Dance
Dave Graham, 9b, Ali Hulk (extension total sit start)
Julia Chanourdie, 9b, Eagle-4

remus

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And for the bonus point, this is (pretty close to) all 9bs that have been climbed. In case we had forgotten what a beast Adam is, he's done more 9bs than the rest of the top 4 combined.

Adam Ondra, Move, Fight or Flight, First Round, First Minute, Iron Curtain, La Capella, La Planta de Shiva, Lapsus, Mamichula, Move Hard, Neanderthal, One Slap, Queen Line, Robin úd, Stoking the Fire, Disbelief, Chaxiraxi, Eagle-4, C.R.S., Golpe de Estado
Chris Sharma, Fight or Flight, First Round, First Minute, Jumbo Love, Neanderthal, Stoking the Fire, Golpe de Estado
Stefano Ghisolfi, First Round, First Minute, La Capella, Lapsus, One Slap, Queen Line, Stoking the Fire
Sébastien Bouin, La Rage d'Adam, Move, Mamichula, The Dream, Les Yeux Plus Gros que l'Antre
Jakob Schubert, Fight or Flight, La Planta de Shiva, Neanderthal, Stoking the Fire
Sachi Amma, Fight or Flight, Soul Mate, Stoking the Fire
Dani Andrada, Ali Hulk (extension sit start), Delincuente Natural (extension)
Alex Megos, Fight Club, First Round, First Minute
Angela Eiter, La Planta de Shiva, Madame Ching
Jonathan Siegrest, Jumbo Love, La Planta de Shiva
Jorge Díaz-Rullo, Ali Hulk (extension total sit start), La Planta de Shiva
Jonatan Flor, Ali Hulk (extension total sit start), La Planta de Shiva
Magnus Midtbø, Ali Hulk (extension sit start)
Ethan Pringle, Jumbo Love
Steve McClure, Rainman
Daniel Woods, La Capella
Matty Hong, Fight or Flight
Pirmin Bertle, La Barrière
Piotr Schab, Fight or Flight
Jonathan Guadalcázar, Ataxia Hiperextension
Hugo Parmentier, Eagle-4
Will Bosi, La Capella
Alessandro Zeni, Cryptography
Laura Rogora, Ali Hulk (extension total sit start)
Dani Fuertes, Ali Hulk (extension total sit start)
Dave Graham, Ali Hulk (extension total sit start)
Hyunbin Min, Soul Rock Dance
Julia Chanourdie, Eagle-4

Doylo

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Looks like Angela Eiter has added a ~9b first ascent of Madame Ching in Austria:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CI2u1jVnCEt/?igshid=11bqyi2h4fhoe

She doesn't commit to a grade but said it was as hard as Planta de Shiva.

There's footage on over-caffeinated sugary drink company's website (link in her bio).

She looks ill in that video.

That’ll be the over-caffeinated sugary drink company. Lovely stuff .
https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/red-bull-side-effects#side-effects

Needs to get some cheese n chip butties, pilchards and spam in her. 

Duma

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I really don't understand how the fuck the sit/boulder starts count.

Interesting to see what others grade it - if you're as tiny as Eiter it must be a nightmare trying to put a number on things, I don't blame her for being reluctant!

Fiend

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I really don't understand how the fuck the sit/boulder starts count.

Nuke it from the list!!

John M good point. But you're very light right, and understand the demands for power-weight ratio? Obviously taken to extremes in this case.

JohnM

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I really don't understand how the fuck the sit/boulder starts count.

Nuke it from the list!!

John M good point. But you're very light right, and understand the demands for power-weight ratio? Obviously taken to extremes in this case.

I am not particularly light. I know that power to weight ratio makes a massive difference though. I just see a lot of posts from various coaches and training companies saying that you shouldn't and don't need to get too light to climb hard but wonder if young girls/women will look a such a video put out by over-caffeinated sugary drink company and decide otherwise.

Doylo

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I really don't understand how the fuck the sit/boulder starts count.
.

Nuke it from the list!!

John M good point. But you're very light right, and understand the demands for power-weight ratio? Obviously taken to extremes in this case.

It’s a good watch if slow death by malnutrition while moving up a rock is your thing

gme

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Shes always looked like that so its not a new thing. Whilst it really does not look healthy it is possible she is naturally tiny and just lost a few exrta lbs for the route just like gresham and Macleod preach to everyone they need to do.

Steve Mc always looks ill and emaciated to me compared to normal people but i dont think he is.

gme

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And in relation to the list i dont think the ali hulk things should be on there. Proper bobbins and also look overgraded with pads.

Doylo

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My brother in law has always looked 25 stone. Doesn’t make it healthy .

DAVETHOMAS90

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Looks like Angela Eiter has added a ~9b first ascent of Madame Ching in Austria:

https://www.instagram.com/p/CI2u1jVnCEt/?igshid=11bqyi2h4fhoe

She doesn't commit to a grade but said it was as hard as Planta de Shiva.

There's footage on over-caffeinated sugary drink company's website (link in her bio).

What's her L-sit score?

Seriously, fantastic and inspiring  :2thumbsup:

Shes always looked like that so its not a new thing. Whilst it really does not look healthy it is possible she is naturally tiny and just lost a few exrta lbs for the route just like gresham and Macleod preach to everyone they need to do.

Steve Mc always looks ill and emaciated to me compared to normal people but i dont think he is.

Agreed. Have to say, I didn't think she looked particularly unhealthy. I can imagine it would be difficult to perform at a very high level without good nutrition, but good to flag up the concerns.

Thanks for the list Remus/Jwi.  :thumbsup:

gme

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My comment isn't written very well. I think she looks really unhealthy, to thin and much older than she is (34).

However i am not saying she is malnourished, as implied by others, just that she looks it.

moose

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My comment isn't written very well. I think she looks really unhealthy, to thin and much older than she is (34).

The first thing I did after watching the video was Google her age - the skin tone around her eyes and neck makes her look older than she is.  Mind you, that could be a life spent outdoors in sunny places rather than anything to do with nutrition.

Doylo

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I’m glad I live here then if that’s what sun does to you. She looks like death warmed up. If my daughter ever gets into climbing when she’s older there’s no way I’d show her that.

JohnM

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Anyone who thinks she looks even close to being healthy must live in a separate reality to me. I found it difficult to watch from that perspective. Having said that I realise that high performance sport doesn't always equal healthy. She hasn't always looked like that either if you look at her older pictures. I also couldn't believe she was younger than me which I also realise is a nasty thing to say and basically just commenting on someone else looks.

petejh

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I can't see this thread ending well!  :worms:

Just watched her film. For what my views on female looks are worth (not much), I think she looks like many other women you might meet in alpine regions who are 'lifers' and have spent large portions of their lives up high. No idea of her background - if she'd spent her life in a low-lying area out of harsh sun and mostly going indoors then I'd probably think differently. The alpine sun is harsh on skin, if she's been going up in the mountains for 15-20 years then mid thirties is when it starts to show in some people. I'm assuming here she probably enjoys all aspects of being active in the high mountains - running, climbing, skiing, alpinism, hiking and she obviously enjoys taking this to the extremes of performance. She's obviously trimmed to the bone and muscular - you can't get muscles like that avoiding nutritious food - and in the shape of her life as a climber. Not sure I see that physique as 'unhealthy', just a result of her lifestyle and it probably fluctuates. It's undoubtedly a look that doesn't conform to the traditional norm of feminine beauty but I'm not convinced anything about it is any more or less 'unhealthy' than other elite athletes. Also have to remember she's a mid-thirties adult with adult agency not a teenager.

I think we could find the same lean haggard bodies and faces among many 'mountain lifer' guys all over the world and they'd be described as 'craggy' or 'weather-beaten' without concern for their health. It's certainly not a look you get from spending a life in Wetherspoons!

She'll probably be jogging up mountains in her 60s when average people are growing their bellies on the sofa.

 

Fiend

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Word up to jwi as this is largely based on his list https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=29904.0

Adam Ondra, 9c, Silence
Alex Megos, 9c, Bibliographie
Stefano Ghisolfi, 9b+, Change, Perfecto Mundo
Chris Sharma, 9b+, La Dura Dura
Jakob Schubert, 9b+, Perfecto Mundo
Sébastien Bouin, 9b, Mamichula, La Rage d'Adam, Move, The Dream, Les Yeux Plus Gros que l'Antre
Sachi Amma, 9b, Fight or Flight, Stoking the Fire, Soul Mate
Dani Andrada, 9b, Delincuente Natural (extension)
Angela Eiter, 9b, Madame Ching, La Planta de Shiva
Jonathan Siegrest, 9b, La Planta de Shiva, Jumbo Love
Jorge Díaz-Rullo, 9b, La Planta de Shiva
Jonatan Flor, 9b, La Planta de Shiva
Ethan Pringle, 9b, Jumbo Love
Steve McClure, 9b, Rainman
Daniel Woods, 9b, La Capella
Matty Hong, 9b, Fight or Flight
Pirmin Bertle, 9b, La Barrière
Piotr Schab, 9b, Fight or Flight
Jonathan Guadalcázar, 9b, Ataxia Hiperextension
Hugo Parmentier, 9b, Eagle-4
Will Bosi, 9b, La Capella
Alessandro Zeni, 9b, Cryptography
Hyunbin Min, 9b, Soul Rock Dance
Julia Chanourdie, 9b, Eagle-4

Tidied up a bit...

Pete isn't the possible, theoretical, hypothetical issue less about looking outdoorsy and well-weathered, and more about implicitly highlighting extreme weight watching and nutrition tinkering and eating disorders as a path to success (of course some people do that explicitly, but at least the Dmac/Gresh interview was full of disclaimers ;))

« Last Edit: December 17, 2020, 07:27:21 pm by Fiend »

Oldmanmatt

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I can't see this thread ending well!  :worms:

Just watched her film. For what my views on female looks are worth (not much), I think she looks like many other women you might meet in alpine regions who are 'lifers' and have spent large portions of their lives up high. No idea of her background - if she'd spent her life in a low-lying area out of harsh sun and mostly going indoors then I'd probably think differently. The alpine sun is harsh on skin, if she's been going up in the mountains for 15-20 years then mid thirties is when it starts to show in some people. I'm assuming here she probably enjoys all aspects of being active in the high mountains - running, climbing, skiing, alpinism, hiking and she obviously enjoys taking this to the extremes of performance. She's obviously trimmed to the bone and muscular - you can't get muscles like that avoiding nutritious food - and in the shape of her life as a climber. Not sure I see that physique as 'unhealthy', just a result of her lifestyle and it probably fluctuates. It's undoubtedly a look that doesn't conform to the traditional norm of feminine beauty but I'm not convinced anything about it is any more or less 'unhealthy' than other elite athletes. Also have to remember she's a mid-thirties adult with adult agency not a teenager.

I think we could find the same lean haggard bodies and faces among many 'mountain lifer' guys all over the world and they'd be described as 'craggy' or 'weather-beaten' without concern for their health. It's certainly not a look you get from spending a life in Wetherspoons!

She'll probably be jogging up mountains in her 60s when average people are growing their bellies on the sofa.

I didn’t really recognise the “unhealthy” description of her, when I read the thread.
I follow her on insta, not that I pay a huge amount of attention to it, but there are often interesting& amusing  photos on her account.
I kinda get the idea that she might seem particularly ripped or under weight, in that vid, but I just flicked back through her insta and there’s a marked difference between her “Pumped” or “Straining” look and her relaxed appearance. There’s some shots of her holding a plank from June-ish where there’s no overly apparent muscle or veins popping.
She probably cut for the attempt, which wouldn’t be in the least bit unusual for any gender at that level. I mean, I have a good friend and body builder, who does those Bikini comps, the difference between her in the 10-14 days before a comp and “normal” is immense.
I mean, this was a world class ascent, at the top echelon of the sport, regardless of gender. Like, haven’t you ever looked at a female, Olympic, Marathon runner?
Worse, perhaps, is that male athletes at that level, in similar sports, probably carry very similar body fat % to their female counterparts, we’re just overly conditioned to see female bodies as requiring a certain shape.

teestub

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Worse, perhaps, is that male athletes at that level, in similar sports, probably carry very similar body fat % to their female counterparts, we’re just overly conditioned to see female bodies as requiring a certain shape.

Without commenting on the rest, as you and Pete have made similar comments on this, this point overlooks the different essential fat percentage between males and females.

 

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