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The Nose speed Record broken (Read 4075 times)

duncan

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The Nose speed Record broken
October 21, 2017, 08:05:52 pm
Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds have broken the record for climbing The Nose with a time of 2:19. Previous record was 2:23 (Alex Honnold and Hans Florine, 2012).

Gobright and Reynolds have had multiple runs up The Nose this Autumn and were chipping away at the time.

Fultonius

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#1 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
October 21, 2017, 08:08:38 pm
Good effort and all that, but I can't help think speed records are pushing climbing to bad places. My thoughts are with Quinn Brett, who's not in a good place right now.

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habrich

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#2 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
October 21, 2017, 08:21:54 pm
I am puzzled as to how people manage these records when the Nose is full of slower climbers. I know they reckon on a lot of passing but, even so, that must surely eat up time? And there must always be sections when bolts/ cam placements vital for a fast time are already in use?

ashtond6

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#3 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
October 22, 2017, 09:49:58 pm
I am puzzled as to how people manage these records when the Nose is full of slower climbers. I know they reckon on a lot of passing but, even so, that must surely eat up time? And there must always be sections when bolts/ cam placements vital for a fast time are already in use?

You just pull on them! If someone else's gear is already in them...

remus

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#4 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
October 22, 2017, 10:48:52 pm
I am puzzled as to how people manage these records when the Nose is full of slower climbers. I know they reckon on a lot of passing but, even so, that must surely eat up time? And there must always be sections when bolts/ cam placements vital for a fast time are already in use?

Id always assumed that timing your ascent was a pretty big part of getting a fast time. I guess you aim to go early in the morning, while everyone is still in their ledges rather than stuck mid pitch.

duncan

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#5 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
October 23, 2017, 02:01:55 pm
This was Gobright and Reynolds 11th run this autumn so they will be well know to most people on the route. Most folk are happy to stop, let the faster team though, enjoying the spectacle from a trackside seat. A team moving this fast and efficiently, averaging less than 5 minutes a pitch, shouldn't delay the slower party more than a few seconds.

It's a much more of an issue for a slow single push team, who might take more than an hour over a complex pitch, encountering a big wall style party. Passing might considerably delay both teams so timing the ascent is then an important consideration.

Fultonious, I know what you mean about Quinn Brett. It's overt competition increasing the risk that we feel uncomfortable with. This happen more subtly in many aspects of climbing but it's starkly obvious here.

Tom Evans' report.

duncan

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#6 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
May 30, 2018, 06:44:40 pm
To no great surprise, Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell have succeeded in breaking the record again, now about 2 hours and 10  mins. (source: everywhere).

Will Hunt

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#7 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
May 30, 2018, 06:52:25 pm
Fucking hell, 9 mins off. When are we going to see sub 2 hours? And what risks are going to have to be taken?!

teestub

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#8 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
May 30, 2018, 10:18:05 pm
Whilst obviously impressive itself in a sort of time trial geeky way, hopefully this is Honnold and Caldwell training for something audacious.

remus

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#9 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
June 05, 2018, 08:59:40 am
Sounds like they've gotten it down to 2hrs1min50secs, and with a rope jam that "probably cost us a couple of minutes".

tomtom

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#10 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
June 05, 2018, 09:03:28 am
Weren’t the two people who died there this week trying speed climbing (ie moving together)?

*starts safety debate/controversy*

cheque

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#11 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
June 05, 2018, 09:15:08 am
Weren’t the two people who died there this week trying speed climbing (ie moving together)?

I don’t think “trying” is the right term, they were apparently very experienced.

teestub

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#12 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
June 05, 2018, 09:23:21 am
Tom, that's a dick post. From the coverage, 2 very experienced climbers died and what lead to the incident is currently unknown.

tomtom

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#13 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
June 05, 2018, 09:38:09 am
Tom, that's a dick post. From the coverage, 2 very experienced climbers died and what lead to the incident is currently unknown.

A quick post more than a dick post I'd suggest... but point above taken. Just what I'd read in the Guardian. Trying should probably be replaced by doing..

duncan

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#14 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
June 05, 2018, 10:52:18 am
It’s too early to draw conclusions about the Freeblast accident since the details reported so far are unclear and, in some details, contradictory.

What is known is the the two pitches below Mammoth ledge where it happened are mostly VS in difficulty with, perhaps, a move of UK5a.  Linking the two pitches with a little simul.-climbing is a very common practice and hardly constitutes “speed climbing”. That’s not assuming this is what they were actually doing.

The known uncertainties have hasn’t stopped many people, some of whom should know a lot better, from immediately making the link to the ultra-fast ascents of The Nose. In this respect, tomtom has some very exalted company.

Whatever the final conclusions, it’s a desperately tragic accident to two people with young families.

tomtom

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#15 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
June 05, 2018, 12:53:03 pm
Fair enough. I am wrong - posted in haste, sorry...

BrutusTheBear

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#16 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
June 05, 2018, 06:51:33 pm
Fair enough. I am wrong - posted in haste, sorry...
For reading the Grauniad?  :P

duncan

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#17 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
June 06, 2018, 03:52:12 pm
Fair enough. I am wrong - posted in haste, sorry...
For reading the Grauniad?  :P

Tom, this wasn’t meant as a dig at you. Many others have made this link.

Sidehaas

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#18 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
June 06, 2018, 05:25:46 pm
Just seen a friend - of-a-friend suggest on Facebook they've just done it again in ~1:58...

kelvin

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#19 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
June 06, 2018, 05:30:34 pm
I saw that but also another report of under two hours!

andy popp

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petejh

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#21 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
June 06, 2018, 07:49:48 pm
I can't be the only person who feels almost unmoved by the speed ascent craze. It's not that it isn't an impressive display of skill and calculated risk-taking, course it is. I'm just left thinking 'so what?', every time.

I'm also wondering if/when the fashion will hit these shores and which route it'll be - in our UK mini-way. Right Wall sub 2mins?  ::)

andy popp

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#22 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
June 06, 2018, 07:58:17 pm
I doesn't interest me that much either. That said it interests me a lot more than dry tooling does - I can't even think of that as a branch of climbing (sorry Pete, I think you do some, don't you?)

Doylo

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#23 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
June 06, 2018, 08:21:26 pm
Not that arsed but I reckon the film will be a good watch.

petejh

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#24 Re: The Nose speed Record broken
June 06, 2018, 08:33:20 pm
AP. Yeah I do lot each autumn, as training for winter mixed and because it's fun climbing in its own right and good for getting out and climbing on shitty weather days. It's funny lots of people criticise or at least 'don't get it'. I guess if they did it they might like it and see the point. Just like if I started speed-climbing the nose I'd probably like it and see 'the point'. BTW in my eyes anyone who says 'they can't see DT as a branch of climbing' marks themselves out as lacking something in imagination and open-mindedness.

I just wonder why the activity - racing up the exact same set of holds that you raced up last week/month/year in a slightly longer time - is publicised so much. Actually no, I don't wonder that. People sell jackets, shoes and hardware off it. But is the fad of racing up the same route over and over and over like it's a racing track moving climbing in a valuable direction? I'd say perhaps not, long term.
« Last Edit: June 06, 2018, 08:46:34 pm by petejh »