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Ardeche in February (Read 1450 times)

Charlton Chestwig

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Ardeche in February
November 06, 2017, 01:03:22 pm
Hi there,
Pondering a trip to south France in Feb an based on time of year and grades required (4 to 7b) I spotted the following in my rockfax book:
Le Cirque des Gens / Chaulet / Mazet
They don't seem to have a great deal of logged ascents on UKC and I was wondering if anyone on here might be able to give me any first hand info on what they are like?
Cheers in advance,
Rich

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#1 Re: Ardeche in February
November 06, 2017, 02:40:04 pm
Not been to the Cirque des Gens, but went to Mazet/Chaulet in April this year. Both are very old school crags, mostly slabby or vertical, getting slightly steeper as the grade increases. They get a lot of group use, meaning that the easily accessible, very easy routes at both crags are very polished. The harder routes (say above 6c/7a) are not very polished by todays standards (i.e no worse than any other popular crag) and even the easy routes 5 mins walk away from the most easily accessible areas are not polished or not too polished.

For instance, my wife tried a great looking 6a in the middle of the most popular bit of Mazet Plage and said it was horrendously polished. I did an amazing 6c/+ three routes to the right that had very little polish, but I was pulling lichen off the footholds at the top. There was a great 6a 5 minutes walk further down the beach (away from the parking area) that had no polish.

As stated, the routes are old-school - read technical/vertical, mostly, and the grades are likewise. Most of the harder routes, with one or two exceptions, are now rarely climbed and can be dusty. I would have though that this would especially be the case in February where they are likely not to have had any ascents since the previous summer.

That said, I thought the routes I did were good. I did routes from 6c - 8a that were as good as any I've done anywhere.

Some of the bolts are dodgy. Many have been replaced/rebolted relatively recently, but some routes are still bolted with stuff put in in 1987/8 ish. These were the first ever glue-ins, short bits of smooth bent iron/steel rod. They look chunky, but are only glued down one short leg only, with whatever glue they had 30 years ago and they have been alternately cooking in the summer sun and freezing every winter every year since then. I'm not aware of any failing on climbers, but the locals do not (publically at any rate) regard them as safe. there is a note about this in the guidebook.

 

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