[tomtom]

Mon: Max hangs
Tu:
We: Depot Manc. Alright ish session... Deleted Sharks number from my phone after being let down again..
Th:
Fr: Day out.. weather shit. Ended up at........ Rubicon. usual failures, but got stuck into the start of Caviar which I really enjoyed. As per usual was done in by the time I'd figured a chunk of it out.. a much nicer project than Kudos though (but more conditionsy..)
Sa:
Su: Off to Barcelona for some fieldwork for a few days... going to be a poor PC week coming up...

[duncan]

STG - 175 degree shoulder elevation. Slabby climbing this week.
MTG - Easy outdoor climbing end-October.
LTG - tbc

M - 5x5 foot-on pull-ups
T - Fingerboard hang 18mm edge: L arm 20kg, R arm 30kg.
W -
T - 5x6 foot-on pull-ups
F -
S -
S - Climbing trees in Waterlow Park with the lad.

Shoulder stretches, shoulder strengthening (through range cuff, scapular muscles, deltoid) every day. Left shoulder elevation = ~170 degrees.

Steady progress. I’d probably have gone proper climbing today had I not had a cold. Climbing trees is good fun though.

Plan: more of the same, go climbing.

[lagerstarfish]

M - weak and sniffley - went fishing and blanked
Tu - bit shivery, swollen glands
We - bed all day, sweating, dreaming etc
Th - same
Fr - was expecting to be better, but the cough got worse
Sa - improving - decking dried out properly, so started annual treatment - only sweated at night
Su - went to Nottingham to see the Chinese dinosaur fossils - on the mend - finished decking treatment

Things!
Can only get betteeeeeer!
feeling a bit Kinnock after all the fevers and meds and shit

big toe joints on left foot swollen and throbbing - thinking about seeking medical advice - smaller joint is a bit like gout, but not so painful to touch, ball of the foot joint feels like when I broke my scaphoid

[Duma]

Goals:
Get out more
More 8A's
8b

Body Audit: Right shoulder slight improvement, still not happy though.
Sleep: good.
70kg.

M: parenting
T: Bloc, brief pootle round some of the yellows (6's?)
W: Bloc, first decent training session in ages, got stuck into a few purples (7's?), then 40 min on the woodie, good to be trying hard and feeling worked by the end.
T:
F: Bloc, ok session on newly reset section (about 10 degrees) managed everything up to purples, and did one of those.
S:
S: Dartmoor, Bonehill. Usual warm up circuit, dabby repeat of slopey traverse 6C+, truncated but more logical version of Lowla at 7A, few laps of Rippled wall 6B+, repeated Left Arete Of The Scoop 7B (terrible name for quality problem) which was chuffed with, then over to bell tor for quick retro flash of Famous Grouse 7A. Ace day.

[shark]

11.6-9

M.

T. AM Crag X. Good conditions. Aim was to come to terms with the heel hook move on JR which scares me. Hung a rope and tried to do the move off the ladder tensioned through a grigri. awkward. Kept swinging out and dabbing the mat on rope stretch. Tried it with a shunt and it just slipped straight through. Did it without rope - far less scary and even took the worst fall when hand greased off rail - bit winded and banged elbow but ok. Much easier doing it this way instead of using pinch. Too tired to work out new feet to finish.     

W. PM Tor with Fraser. Raining. Tied in for first time since mid July. Led Tin Of 7b+ through crux which was encouraging. Opted to take a rest before got too pumped and bolt to bolted to top. Redpointed it next go. Third go tired and bolt to bolted and stripped it. Not too shoddy stamina-wise for a boulderer...

T.

F.

S. AM Crag X. Bit damp but ok. Worked the heel move to sort out feet so dont swing off last moves. Karl B and Paul Reeve turned up sporting a beard. He was suitably enfeebled from jungle bashing and shagging lemurs in Madagascar which was beautiful as I was able to comprehensively burn him off.  Got a good foot sequence and then a good couple of links from near end of traverse to rail. Its coming together     

S. PM Anston. Dave and Cofe there. Set to work on Beretta 7A+. Got close a couple of times but no tick which was annoying. At end took a 20 min rest before having a last go but found I couldn't even pull on a t the start so must have got pretty worked. 

Deleted Sharks number from my phone after being let down again..

 

[gme]

11.6-9

M.

T. AM Crag X. Good conditions. Aim was to come to terms with the heel hook move on JR which scares me. Hung a rope and tried to do the move off the ladder tensioned through a grigri. awkward. Kept swinging out and dabbing the mat on rope stretch. Tried it with a shunt and it just slipped straight through. Did it without rope - far less scary and even took the worst fall when hand greased off rail - bit winded and banged elbow but ok.

Please if there truly is a god all this will be on film.

[lagerstarfish]

T. AM Crag X. Good conditions. Aim was to come to terms with the heel hook move on JR which scares me. Hung a rope and tried to do the move off the ladder tensioned through a grigri. awkward. Kept swinging out and dabbing the mat on rope stretch. Tried it with a shunt and it just slipped straight through. Did it without rope - far less scary and even took the worst fall when hand greased off rail - bit winded and banged elbow but ok.

Please if there truly is a god all this will be on film.

you seen Touching The Void?

sounds like the same thing, but with a different Simon who this time is on the receiving end of his own rope work - but in this case the Simon is not as experienced or capable as Yates

probably exactly what would happen if "lucky" Joe Simpson were to go top rope bouldering at a secret location on his own

[tomtom]

11.6-9

M.

T. AM Crag X. Good conditions. Aim was to come to terms with the heel hook move on JR which scares me. Hung a rope and tried to do the move off the ladder tensioned through a grigri. awkward. Kept swinging out and dabbing the mat on rope stretch. Tried it with a shunt and it just slipped straight through. Did it without rope - far less scary and even took the worst fall when hand greased off rail - bit winded and banged elbow but ok.

Please if there truly is a god all this will be on film.

At least then you'll be able to watch it on 2x...

[T_B]

M - lunch run
T - lunch run
W -
T - pm run
F -
S - am run
S - pm 2 hours at Froggatt. Bumbling around wondering what to do looking up at solos I've done in the past and thinking they looked really high. Did Hot Toddy, a nice little 7a modern genre stylee.

Psyche is low. Maybe I need another week off  .

[Murph]

 Morning chaps

Week 3 of 10 week plan
Goals: consistency, lightness, strongness

67.3->66.8kgs

M-work. Squeezed in a shoulder rehab
T-easy works powerhour, yellows. 5k z3/z4 run. Shoulders
W-shoulder rehab
T-works. 7k z3/z4 run. New irn bru circuit. Good fun.
F-beat
S-graves parkrun. Shoulders.
S-family bouldering at robin hoods.

Things going ok really. 7 more weeks like this and good things will happen. Shoulder issues look like calmed down but the pre/rehab is essential.

[nai]

Su - went to Nottingham to see the Chinese dinosaur fossils

Worthwhile?

[Nibile]

Power Club
2-8ott

Mon - BM incut rung, one arm: back3 x 3; normal half crimp 90% (+ 11 kg rh, + 8 lh) x 6. Good! Javorek complex power x 2. Tired as hell.
Tue - rest.
Wed - went track racing. Got back with a stiff lower back. D'oh.
Thu - climbing class. Decided to climb, for one. Terrible wall, terrible setting, boiling. Never again.
Fri - rest.
Sat - rest.
Sun - rest.

Another interlocutory week. Let's see if I can resume normal service soon.
Battled with an achey lower back for a few days, can't lift seriously at the moment and my back suffers from this. Spent the weekend in Turin, on Friday I brought my motorcycle tank to the welder who's going to modify it, then later on I went to collect the fucking amazing aluminium trellis swingarm that I ordered a few months ago, a one-off custom made piece. As if my bike could be mistaken with others... Anyway brilliant stuff, can't wait to see her finished. The guy had some extremely cool bikes, from a collection of SV 650 and TL 1000 converted to track only, to the TL they raced at the TT a few years ago, to a couple of nice cafe racers, to an MV F4 (beautiful bike), to an amazing project of a TL with polished frame, Paioli racing forks and a Ducati 1098 single side swingarm, equally polished. Very pr0n.

[Nibile]

Su - went to Nottingham to see the Chinese dinosaur fossils

Worthwhile?

No, they were showing only the old models.

[Wood FT]

Mo -
Tu - fingerboard ‘7a’
We -
Th - Torbryan, 6c, 7a, 7b
Fr - Ansteys, tried La Creme briefly, needs to be much colder for that sloper.
Sa - Ansteys, 7b, then attempts on the rising 30m traverse of ‘Fusion Reactor’, pumpy and very good, big swinging falls
Su - Torbryan, 6c then wasted, checked out the direct start to ‘Little White Lie’, bit shit.

Inspired by the longer Ansteys line, more fun than falling off bolt one of the cider soak

[GazM]

Morning all, my second week in the Power Club confessional. Very much a week of snatched opportunities while the baby was feeling kind.

Mon - 30 mins on the Beastmaker before work. 10 second deadhangs on a range of holds, fairly unfocused.

Tues - nothing

Weds - 30 mins on the Beastmaker before work. Warm up then 5 x 10 seconds on smalls and 5 x 10 seconds on 35s (45s are still an improbable dream).

Thurs - raced across town for a 45 minute session at the Inverness wall in my lunch break.  A nice change to my board and the beastmaker.

Fri - Bus Boulder, again.  Fortunately the easiest access boulder from my house has a project I'm psyched for, becoming known as The Hygge Project as it has a cosy Scandi vibe in the woods by the river.  Abbed it and gave the top a clean, which unlocked the top out. Stand start went at ~6B, but the sit start is the meat of it. Made some progress on that but it'll take some work, which is good.

Sat - An hour on my board when everyone was in bed, failing on a project and coming up with two more.

Sun - Beastmaker session, 5 x 10 secs on bigs, alternative bigs + incut, alternative smalls + incut, smalls, 35s, and smalls + 9kg (I need to buy some more weights...)

On reflection, not that bad this week. 

Nb, is there an official naming system for the beastmaker holds? I'm making it all up.

[TobyD]

Monday rest
Tuesday Torbryan with Alice, 3 goes at Threadbare LH, greasy conditions.
Wednesday Torbryan with Matt. Did crosstown traffic in the rain, and a couple of laps on Barney rubble.
Thursday rest
Friday Beastmaker repeaters at the Bunker
Saturday more repeaters and rings
Sunday Torbryan, 8 tie ins including 2 RP goes on Threadbare LH. Lovely sunny day out.

[36chambers]

M:
T: Indoors. 30 board replicas, better but still couldn't quite finish them off.   
W:
T: Started fingerboarding but fingers felt tweaky so 15 minutes with the rice bucket instead.
F:
S: Northumberland club trip. Bowden, managed Dog Eat Dog, Transformer direct, Staggered 7B and Sprung 7B(?), all very good problems. Close to doing V Crimps 7C but couldn't try it much as each attempt completely ragged my index fingertip. About to wander over to Born Lippy but showers came in.
S: Bowden. Managed to fall from the last move of Born Lippy 7C+(?) 3 times. Happy to finally try it and that I almost did it in a subpar state (two nights of bad sleep on a roll mat, drinking, etc.), but slightly annoyed as I think I would have pissed it if I tried it first thing on Saturday. Finished the day by hauling myself up Flake Eliminate 7A, which was surprisingly good. 

Big Northumberland psyche right now, I really need to start going more than once a year.

[Nutty]

Weight: 68.9kg

STG: Train more regularly, sub-45 min 10k in training, climb outdoors more
MTG: Sub-90 min half marathon, 7A something
LTG: TBC

M: Run. 7.72km at 4:11/km average pace.
T: Garden board session. Managed to do the left hand version of the 'hard' problem I've been trying. Managed to latch the last hold on the right hand version, but couldn't hold the swing. Progress. Stretching between problems.
W: Rest
T: Rest. Meal and drinks in the evening with friend visiting from Ireland. Took it easy on the booze though.
F: Run. 10.2km at 4:16/km average pace (42:40 for 10k).
S: Garden board session. Repeated the left hand version of the 'hard' problem, but still couldn't do the right hand version. Stretching between problems and some TRX exercises to finish.
S: Rest. In laws visited for Sunday lunch. Evening got away from me so didn't fit in planned run.

Better week this week. Would have preferred to get another run in. Really pleased with the 10k time for the first 10k I've run in a while: needs to get faster to be on target for my half-marathon goal but given I'm only four weeks into the training I'm happy with where I'm at. Good to make progress on the board as well, though not sure if this is due to swapping shoes. The symmetrical problems are highlighting some weaknesses.

[yetix]

STG: resolve finger issues (seem to be getting better)
MTG: Captain Hook, Bovine, Electrical Storm
LTG: Brad Pit, and la Fuente (stand)

63.7kg

M: Rest
T: Moonboard at rockover, managed to tick a few problems I'd been working
W: Rest
T: circuited the new reds at manchester with 1-2 goes on each and retroflashed a few of the yellows
F: Went to the clinic in sheffield again (finger feels the best its felt in months after this session)
S: Curbar. Managed to roll my ankle quite badly whilst quickly trying to repeat Gorilla Warfare. Then managed to send Early Doors and Trackside (my nemisis). (Carrying on probably didn't help my ankle at all)
S: Could barely walk so went to the depot to do some conditioning as I was getting cabin fever staying home all day!

[Bradders]

STG - Tourniquet
MTG - week off in October and two weeks off before Christmas. Hoping to finish off a couple of grit projects, notably Jason's Roof at Crookrise and Low Rider at Stanage
LTG - too many projects to list here.

M - rest
T - Crookrise after work. Windy and overcast but mid-teens temps. Good progress on Jason's using the more traditional beta of left heel by left hand and dropping into the rail crimp. Did the move a few times and had a couple of decent redpoints until it rained. Needs to be a bit colder.
W - Depot, an hour on the 50 board, bit sluggish but strong. Tried a new problem and did the top half. Then did 4x2s on a steep compression red on the barrel. Then Is, Ys & Ts on the TRX and managed to tweak a muscle in my back.
T - proper sore ab DOMS. Back hurt too.
F - same as Thurs but a bit better.
S - abs still a bit sore! Back better though. Need to do more TRX. Anyway did some one armer practice with therabands, then hangboard repeaters 5x 6r 6/4s with 2 min rests. Steady. Then one arm deadhangs. Can just manage 5 seconds on both arms on the 20mm edge if I pinch the door frame with the other hand. Will try and build up to 10 seconds doing this. Finished with some (painful) front levers practice.
S - Queens Crag day trip. First session on Queen Kong. Basically should have done it. Best two goes I had my hand on the RH sidepull, all the hard climbing done, and just needed to get my feet up. Unfortunately the weather then closed in and that was that. Psyched anyway; what a problem!

[nai]

goals - get my burl back while iffy finger heals

M - LI AeroCap (3x15, 1x10mins)

T - HI AeroCap 10x1min

w rest

Th - Worked out I can boulder on the bigger holds on my board (not big jugs but larger slopers and incuts) without firing up the finger.  Hopefully address weaknesses that the moonboard highlighted last year initiating moves with just one foothold and making wide shouldery moves.

30 minutes lapping sinker jugs - 1 min on, 45s off. Aim to reduce rest and ultimately be able to stay on for 15 minutes at a time (not sure if it's best to do it this way or just to stay on for as long as possible each time then rest until ready to go again.  Anyone?)

Fr - LI AeroCap 3x15mins

S rest

S - burly board bouldering. Great fun.  TRX

[Coops_13]

STG: Train tweaky finger back to health
MTG: 7C

M:
T: Indoors, on the new set on the 50, they've set problems on it... Ticked two of them, the rest are hard.
W:
T: Indoors, some nice boulders in the new set. Managed a PB of ring muscle-ups
F:
S: High ropes fun with family
S: Indoors, on the 50 again. Managed the first move on the third easiest boulder. Ticked a problem I'd made myself, really nice one.

Was there an app mentioned where you could take a picture of a board and record problems/the holds used to keep a log of what you've done?

[measles23]

70.6kg

M- nowt
T- BM micros Deadhangs open crimp 10 sets up to +30kg x 5s on the 10s
DL 10 sets up to 205x4 total of 12 lifts of 205 in the session (peak set tunes = Darkest hour - the goddess figure)
W- nowt
T- BM micros deadhangs open crimp 7 sets bodyweight only on the 8s
Skwats - 12 sets up to 120 x 3s
F- nowt
S- young archaeology club at Ilam for youth
Friends round - alcohol + the great game of Britain = excellent recipe for marital breakdown/ inter family warfare..
S- slightly heavy head + slightly heavy body = poor session at Stoke AW..

Agreed Chinese dinos sound interesting - any good?

[lagerstarfish]

Su - went to Nottingham to see the Chinese dinosaur fossils

Worthwhile?

much smaller exhibition than I was expecting, but just right for the kids' attention span - I enjoyed seeing decent fossils of feathered dinosaurs - the big assembled skeletons are ace

kids excited by being allowed to touch an actual huge fossilized leg bone

there was also a person in a big velociraptor suit walking around outside - very popular with the kids (and a total surprise) - activity tent outside where we dressed up in dino mask and claws and identified pretend dino poo. classic small scale British museum stuff

decent displays of stuffed modern birds (and other animals and insects) to compare with - and two whopping African elephant tusks that you can touch (amazed that there isn't more security, I ran a quick calculation and thought about doing a runner with them) - actually, the taxidermy was pretty interesting with a bit of info about the process

left Sheff at 9am and were back home by 1.45pm

the park itself is great for running around in and there was a herd of dear trotting about - good playground near the parking - the boys loved running up the grassy hill to the house

[fried]

Another awe - uninspiring week

2 Indoor sessions -

Monday climbed about as bad as I've ever climbed. Tired. Couldn't even repeat a couple of problems I'd previously flashed.

Thursday, good session, felt good. 3x 6A 1x 6B. Ached after in a good way

Car still broken and our insurance company approved garage can't fit us in until the end of October, so no outdoors for me.

Saturday - Saw a mate for his biannual visit, saw Kasai Allstars; best concert I've been to years....only concert I've been to years.

Sunday - planned to get the train out to Bois le Roi....then indoors...settled for drinking on the balcony in 25° temps. Oh, I feel so guilty.

[Luke Owens]

It's started to really annoy me this week that my bouldering grade hasn't increased from around 7A in 4 years. Pretty poor effort really, I have actually been trying to improve but my finger strength has always been incredibly low for the grades I tend to manage.

Back to the fingerboard again; I've never really managed a noticeable gain in finger strength in the past so hopefully if I stick at it for longer something might happen...

M: Lunch - Core and Antags

T: 1on 2off Aerocap for 10mins
Max Hangs (3 mins rest between reps)- 
4 x 10s on 30mm/20mm half crimp alternate arms
1 x 10s on 20mm open crimp

W: Lunch - Core and Antags

T: 1on 2off Aerocap for 10mins
Max Hangs (3 mins rest between reps)- 
2 x 10s on 30mm/20mm half crimp alternate arms
20mm edge, half crimp, R1: 9s, R2: 8s, R3: 8s

F: Boardroom - Various problems as a warm up then did some stuff around 6C/+ and some limit bouldering around 7A/7A+.

10 mins Aerocap warm-down

S: Rest

S: Fedw Fawr - Solo first visit, found the place OK but it was a bit of a mission from Wrexham. Most of the problems were damp/greasy and everything is pretty high. Threw a rope down Lobster Pop when I got there and dried and brushed the holds, went over to the freestanding boulders to warm up first. Flashed "The Big Tissue" (6A+) great problem at it's grade. Then completely failed on "Wall of Attrition" (6C+). Went back over to try Lobster Pop and was greeted by a massive run off wet streak down some of the crucial holds. Tried to stop the water from the top and dry the holds but had no chance, annoying...

Flashed "Pretencious Limestone" (6C) then scared myself a bit doing "The Mariner" (6C+) in a few goes, a direct line up the middle of one of the massive boulders. Finished off trying Ug's Arete (7A) but felt tired and struggled to figure it out. Walk out and drive home took ages.

[36chambers]

Was there an app mentioned where you could take a picture of a board and record problems/the holds used to keep a log of what you've done?

Does the wall have a facebook group for board problems? That's probably the easiest way to get people involved with suggesting problems and what not.

[nai]

Back to the fingerboard again; I've never really managed a noticeable gain in finger strength in the past so hopefully if I stick at it for longer something might happen...

I saw the results of a study recently where two groups of endurance athletes had trained for 3 months pre race season and had their gains measured.  One group then dropped the strength work during the season while the other performed a single session per week.  After 3 months (I think) the group that continued training had maintained pretty much all of their gains (and were recording better race times, most notably maintaining higher pace in the second half of their races) whilst the other group had lost all of their gains (took a lot of willpower not to capitalize ALL there). So it seems, on that evidence, we should just never stop hanging.

Edit:  And regarding not seeing gains previously, try a base phase of repeater style hangs for around six weeks then switch to a max hangs program.  If that doesn't work buy some hexes and grow a beard.

[Luke Owens]

Back to the fingerboard again; I've never really managed a noticeable gain in finger strength in the past so hopefully if I stick at it for longer something might happen...

I saw the results of a study recently where two groups of endurance athletes had trained for 3 months pre race season and had their gains measured.  One group then dropped the strength work during the season while the other performed a single session per week.  After 3 months (I think) the group that continued training had maintained pretty much all of their gains (and were recording better race times, most notably maintaining higher pace in the second half of their races) whilst the other group had lost all of their gains (took a lot of willpower not to capitalize ALL there). So it seems, on that evidence, we should just never stop hanging.

Edit:  And regarding not seeing gains previously, try a base phase of repeater style hangs for around six weeks then switch to a max hangs program.  If that doesn't work buy some hexes and grow a beard.

Cheers nai, staggering info there. What's the idea behind the period of repeaters first? (Is there a thread on here about it?) I've never really done repeaters, maybe did a bit years ago.

I haven't lost all of my gains but quite a lot. I did make some marginal gains in strength over last winter just not as much as I'd expected.

Regarding a beard; I'm 29 and still can't grow one so If the hangs don't work I'll just have to quit climbing...!

[Nibile]

If that doesn't work buy some hexes do more fingerboarding and grow a beard.

FTFY.

[nai]

What's the idea behind the period of repeaters first? (Is there a thread on here about it?) I've never really done repeaters, maybe did a bit years ago.

Basicaly what Sas says:

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21419.msg390951.html#msg390951

[Luke Owens]

Quick question, I can't one arm anything, even a jug so I'm guessing I need to do shoulder girdle strength stuff if I want to be able to do this.

The most measurable way in the gym seems to be to put a handle on the lat pull down machine and pull with one arm.

As it's on a cable there can be twisting, when starting palms out it feels easier to twist the handle to face the palm inward to lock off the last bit of the motion but from a shoulder girdle strengthening point of view is it better to star palm facing out the whole time?

Also, should I aim to pull the maximum I can for 5reps? 3reps? 1rep?

Cheers

[erm, sam]

I have been trying to improve my shoulder strength by doing weighted wide pull ups, and weighted wide hand high lock offs, holding shoulders level with hands for 5s or so. THe width of my hands is such that if my chin is over one hand, the other arm is basically straight along the bar to the other hand. This combinded with Typewriters (in a different session) -chin over one hand transfering to chin above other, keepign shoulders high and back at all times is good. Don't know if it has worked yet, but feels like it is working..

[Nibile]

Quick question, I can't one arm anything, even a jug so I'm guessing I need to do shoulder girdle strength stuff if I want to be able to do this.

The most measurable way in the gym seems to be to put a handle on the lat pull down machine and pull with one arm.

As it's on a cable there can be twisting, when starting palms out it feels easier to twist the handle to face the palm inward to lock off the last bit of the motion but from a shoulder girdle strengthening point of view is it better to star palm facing out the whole time?

Also, should I aim to pull the maximum I can for 5reps? 3reps? 1rep?

Cheers

I've always found one armers on the lat machine way harder than on a bar. It's true that you can twist your wrist, but one armers - standard ones at least - are much more about twisting your body. Moreover, the neutral wrist position is the strongest but it's tricky to align body, arm and wrist at the lat machine. You can sit with both legs on the same side of the knee pads, opposite of the hand you're using, but it's still tricky and I don't think it will be of much help for real one armers.
I think that a good start could be at the bar, even with some added weight, first "learning" to retract and depress the shoulder blades with two arms, that's the first part of any pull up, or at least should be. Then, once you can do a few good pulls using just the shoulder depression, you can start practicing with one arm, same thing. Maybe taking some weight off, but going from a simple hang to a higher position with the shoulder blades retracted and depressed, and the lats that start being activated. Just this would give you a nice angle at the elbow.

[Murph]

I've never really managed a noticeable gain in finger strength in the past so hopefully if I stick at it for longer something might happen...

I *love* max hangs and have had great gains from them, so I'm always curious when I see someone say that they don't work for them.

T: 1on 2off Aerocap for 10mins
Max Hangs (3 mins rest between reps)- 
4 x 10s on 30mm/20mm half crimp alternate arms
1 x 10s on 20mm open crimp

So you are hanging 4 times for 10s on a mix of holds, and then once for 10s - 5 hangs total?

T: 1on 2off Aerocap for 10mins
Max Hangs (3 mins rest between reps)- 
2 x 10s on 30mm/20mm half crimp alternate arms
20mm edge, half crimp, R1: 9s, R2: 8s, R3: 8s

And then two days later you did another 5 hangs but this time 3 were exclusively on the 20mm edge. Looks like you are doing something similar to what I've done - aim for 10s and when you can do that move on to something more challenging? That sounds like a pretty solid routine to me. If you can keep it up and be systematic then surely those 9s and 8s will turn to 10s and before long you'll be doing all 5 hangs on 20mm. Then can move onto smaller holds and/or add weight.

FWIW I've found it helpful to be brutal about the lengths of rests for benchmarking / tracking - so I do my hangs on the minute marks of 1,4,7...25

Quick question, I can't one arm anything, even a jug so I'm guessing I need to do shoulder girdle strength stuff if I want to be able to do this.

When you do your hangs are you hanging like a bag of rocks shoulders touching ears etc. or are your shoulders fully engaged, scapular retracted & neck tall? I struggled in the past with going from (poor form) max hangs with lots of added weight to any one arm work, and the main reason was poor shoulder stability. It's a weakness I am only now taking seriously by doing things like scapular retractions on a bar - which is what everyone should be doing anyway. And for what it's worth, when I fail a hang these days it's usually because the shoulders have dropped - I used to just hang with shoulders dropped throughout! Anyway, that 's my n=1 good luck with making progress.

[Luke Owens]

So you are hanging 4 times for 10s on a mix of holds, and then once for 10s - 5 hangs total?

Basically I was putting one hand on the 30mm and the other on the 20mm and hanging half crimped, then switching to the other hand on the 30mm and the other on the 20mm. So 4 of these then one hang open crimp (I'm stronger open crimped) with both hands on the 20mm.

And then two days later you did another 5 hangs but this time 3 were exclusively on the 20mm edge.

Yeah, 3 hangs half crimped on the 20mm.

When you do your hangs are you hanging like a bag of rocks shoulders touching ears etc. or are your shoulders fully engaged, scapular retracted & neck tall? I struggled in the past with going from (poor form) max hangs with lots of added weight to any one arm work, and the main reason was poor shoulder stability. It's a weakness I am only now taking seriously by doing things like scapular retractions on a bar - which is what everyone should be doing anyway. And for what it's worth, when I fail a hang these days it's usually because the shoulders have dropped - I used to just hang with shoulders dropped throughout! Anyway, that 's my n=1 good luck with making progress.

I find it much easier to hang anything when my shoulders fully engaged. If I'm sagged I find it a lot harder so no problems there really.

Are the scapular retractions just hanging from a bar and sort of just engaging the first part of a pull up?

Cheers

[Murph]

Are the scapular retractions just hanging from a bar and sort of just engaging the first part of a pull up?

Yeah that's it. If you're hanging engaged anyway then you probably don't have the same issues I had/have so that might not be your weakness.