[tomtom]

M: Max hangs before work #keen
Tu: Work
We: Hoped to get to Rubicon, but semi poorly boy in Nursery meant I needed to be close/with phone reception in order to help if he got worse. So, session at the Depot... working a couple of things on the 30. Really good work out - tried to do a series of blacks (V3-4's) afterwards and only managed a couple before feeling totally beasted. Was the right call as I had to go into nursery at 2pm to administer DRUGS.
Th: Max hangs
Fri: Rest
Sa: Rubicon. Good conditions, good social scene. Only people doing routes, but knew a few of them and had a good chat. Stone was on good form - and we had a length discussion about the +ve/-ve's of renewable energy whilst I was trying to pull as hard as possible on the Press. Not sure if it helped or not. Anyway, some progress on Kudos, got to foot matching  three times, and once felt comfortable enough to start pasting a foot out right (the next move in other words).
Su: Well, I might do some max hangs in a bit, but for now taking advantage of the sleeping baby to do my power club paperwork

[shark]

11.6-7

M.

T. Eve Crag X Stopped on way back from Manc. Tired. Rock a little dank. Worked Pink Indians 7B for the first time. Struggling to get heel up. Then worked the crux of Moffatrocity and got a cool sequence 

W.

T. Eve. Didn't find time to get outside during day. Fingerboard repeaters session + other stuff and 140kg + bar deadlift.

F. Eve. On the lash in Didsbury with the BMC crew. Got carried away with shots.  Ended up being thrown out of a bar for the crime of falling over.

S. Hangover. Eve. Managed a couple of lagers at Ben & Shirleys' bash. Another good do. Looks Im going to Leonidio at the start of Dec with Keith, Rab and Steve. Sonia doesnt know yet - shes off in Jersey doing a marathon.

S. Had planned to go to Anston but grizzly weather so did a repeater session as per thurs just now. Also did 142.5kg +bar deadlift. Probably do some 20/10s aerocap on the system board later. Going to need to acquire some endurance over the next 4 weeks.

Probably get another session in on Moffatrocity on Weds. Was planning to boulder with Guy VG on Dartmoor on friday though maybe an Ansteys session might be better 

[Murph]

Thanks TT, I'll get mine done early too then.

Week 1 of the 10 week plan.
Goals: consistency, lightness, strongness

M-
T-Simple & Sinister kettlebell routine mostly 24kgs but 16kgs on left for get ups. Got some elbow weakness to deal with. Works yellow session. 5k run.
W-shoulder tweaky from day before so decided to take it easy.
T-Works wasps. Felt good. Tried some murple. Couldn't do any of them. It's a thin line between them you can do and them you can't. Good session.
F-
S-Unexpected pass so, because of rain, went to Beginners Wall. Good decision. This place is home to my lifetime project, Advanced Training, but I'm so far out of shape at the moment that I am under no pressure so just worked Swing Time until I had it perfect. Then worked Man of Steel. Though I found MoS trivial back when I first did it I since learnt to respect it a bit more as it ended up being the crux of the much harder Advanced Training. Anyway, things weren't going well and I thought I was going to have to beat a hasty retreat. Then this happened:

Needless to say I was made up. This is the first time I've done it without locking off and going static. A significant step forward. I'm going to run laps on it before even thinking about AT.
S-Another unexpected pass so went out to beginners again. Wet! Went to tom's Cave. Wet! Finished up at Rubicon. Dry and deserted. Tried, yet again, to repeat Bigger Splash. Failed. I'm sure I nearly flashed this one a year ago or did I dream it?

68.1->67.1kgs. Let's keep this up!

[tomtom]

way to go Murph!

the (ahem) taller gentleman can just leave the heel comfortably in that hold IIRC for the last push up...

Good to see the psyche back!

[Wood FT]

mon - Awesome walls, 8 routes 6b-7a and dogged a 7b up the corner, bit jumpy.
tue - Cheedale Two Tier, girlfriend did Quality Control (7a), so chuffed for her. Repeated that and onsighted Case Ajourned (7a) which felt very tough leaving the floor, desperate in fact. Had a crap go on Blockhead (7b)but didn't make it past bolt two, the peak feels very very hard when you don't have 'the snap' tm
wed -Drove back down south via Cheddar, onsighted Raw Deal (7a) and then it rained
thu -
fri - Beastmaker, 6c
sat -
sun - Beastmaker, 7a (6c+, I can't hang the middle slopers or back two so added a finger or used a different hold)

[Murph]

way to go Murph!

the (ahem) taller gentleman can just leave the heel comfortably in that hold IIRC for the last push up...

Good to see the psyche back!

Cheers TT it's good to have it back. Get you on the max hangs as well - that'll get you there!

Would love to see MoS done with a heel in all the way. It would be kind of artistic. Wang it in at the start then basically pivot your whole body round it. Funny thing going back there, I'd kind of built it up in my mind from all the effort I put into it last year, but going there again I was surprised how short the problem looked.

Regardless, it's a quality rainy venue and once again I was left marvelling at the thought "where on earth is everyone" when I was having such a good time up there above the road.

[measles23]

142.5kg +bar deadlift

= 162.5kg (presuming a 20kg bar) Fiend got all confused about that last year but there should be no confusion: Lift = weight including bar..
Getting to quite meaty weights tho good eff

Well done murph tho not quite sure wtf you're on about - basically you're saying you're too weak to lock off on it like last year so have to resort to slapping 

70.4kg 

M - nowt
T - DL: 10 sets up to 195x5 (including bar!) followed by 3x3 of 195s
Max hangs open crimp BM micros up to a bunch of +20kg x 5s on the 10s
W - nowt
T - Low bar squats - loads of sets of 5s and 3s at 110kg
Good mornings - bunch of sets of 60kgs
Bunch of sets with wedge^TM for pulley rows
F- nowt
S- 3.30 wake up to drive to Cornwall for wedding - good day, good friends
S- drive back, collapse

[shark]

I did weigh the bar once but can't remember for sure but think it is only 5kg. My PB is 150kg + bar. Also not being Olympic weights the bar is lower which is harder I gather, ironically...

[36chambers]

M:
T: Indoors. 50 board, back on leftover problems from last winter. Feeling easier
W:
T: Indoors. 50 and 30. Old projects on 50 and novel moves like going again with higher hand on 30.
F:
S: Brimham. Climbed Black Chipper Low ~7C and managed to punter off the last move of Ian's Traverse 7B a few times and split two tips in the process...
S: Indoors. Comp problems. Worked through 15-30. Finished the session with some stretches which is something I need to be more consistent with.

Time to start being more specific with my indoor sessions in prep for winter. I'm slightly apprehensive about whether I've improved enough since last winter as I've just been dicking about on the boards all year rather than following a training plan, we will see.

[Fiend]

Oi measles I didn't get all confused I was just asking what the bar weight was back then (and someone else was asking if his 150 was kilos or pounds ), then again when you read nonsense like:

I did weigh the bar once but can't remember for sure but think it is only 5kg

...confusion would be understandable!!

[Murph]

Folk not interested in micro beta for a problem hardly anyone bothers to do should look away...

Well done murph tho not quite sure wtf you're on about - basically you're saying you're too weak to lock off on it like last year so have to resort to slapping 

Cheers matt and good to see you back on power club.

Yes, slapping. Going static (like in my other MoS Vimeo) is just too strong for the end of AT. As my friend Fletch once quipped "you must be very strong....because you've got no technique". Well consider slapping for it a bit of technique. I've never, ever, done it the slapping way before - only the lock off way.

Strong people who've put videos up (Ash and Kingy) have both done clever things with their feet for that top. Neither have done it the full-punter way I originally used on MoS. There's probably a reason for that!

Hopefully that makes sense. Maybe I'm talking bollocks but there's a glimmer of hope again now.

[lagerstarfish]

no climbing this week due to large hole in my finger

M - hard gardening, DIY and then pike fishing - the kind of fishing that also involves catching fish
Tu - more gardening and DIY - very physical
W - very glad to have a rest day - stubbed already painful toe on sunken metal post in the park whilst herding lots of 6 yr olds in the rain
Th - toe very painful, hard to walk. Gym before work - IYWs and rear delt flies on TRX (fuck me, that was a lot harder than I expected) 140kg trap bar dead lifts seemed easy in comparison (building up s l o w l y )
F - doms doms doms doms in interesting places from TRX torture 
S - DIY then time out with Mrs Starfish. dropped the kids off for the night with former southern sandstone myth Jasper Sharpe and went to The Broadfield. Bumped into southern sandstone legends Matt Saunders (sober!) and The Gary Wickham. Loud mouthed southerner Andy Coish turned up for a few drinks whilst on his way to buy some lamb chops. Saw aLICErOBERTSfANkLUB, but didn't manage to chat. good wad ticking evening overall
Su - more pike fishing in the morning- and catching. I may not have climbed, but I have caught 8 pike this week and grown some skin/flesh back. Toe still very painful

should have time to go out on rock Tuesday and Friday this week 

[nai]

stg - sort iffy finger out, start 6 month plan

M - still feeling meegh

T - tentative weights & TRX

W - HI Aero, found it hard, failed early

Th - 5x5x5 Repeaters, LI Aero, hard going again.

F - nowt

S - weights & TRX

S - put all my jugs back on my board in a circuit, only managed to stay on for just over 2 minutes, just 13 short.

[measles23]

then again when you read nonsense like:

I did weigh the bar once but can't remember for sure but think it is only 5kg

Truth!

Didn't know you could use twiglets for a bar.. C'mon guys standardisation is achievable with this, it isn't fingerboarding after all

[T_B]

M - Lunch: Wave pulling on L2s. Tired.
T - Lunch: Autobelays. 11, inc 2 x 7as, 1 x 7a+.
W - PM. Repeaters. 3 x 6 x 7 front 3 with 2.5 mins rest, 1 x 6 x 8 back 3. 1 x 6 x 7 half crimp on edge. 3 x 8 pull ups on rings.
T - Tweaked neck yday pm, so didn't do anything.
F - Lunch. Repeaters. 2 x 6 x 7 front 3, 2 x 6 x 7 half crimp on Lattice edge. 3 x 10 sec hangs middle 2.
S - Light homeboard sess whilst do some re-setting.
S - Am run, PM homeboard, 1.5 sess.

First week since codfinger deadhanging/homeboard. It still clicks, but seems fine. Feel reasonably streng.
Didn't get out this week due to weather/stiff neck.

[Coops_13]

STG: Get back to feeling strong
MTG: 7C

M:
T: Arch - felt weak
W:
T: Arch - felt weak
F:
S: Arch - felt weak
S:

Poor week of indoor sessions, hampered by dodgy A2 pulley. Hopefully this week(days) of rest will do some good. Off to Prague with work so hopefully can get in the pool to do some exercise...

[Nutty]

Weight: 67.7kg

STG: Train more regularly, sub-45 min 10k in training, climb outdoors more
MTG: Sub-90 min half marathon, 7A something
LTG: TBC

M: Rest.
T: Run. 7.3k at 4:24/km average pace.
W: Coming down with something. Feel wiped out.
T: Feeling a bit better. Rest.
F: Feeling a bit worse.
S: Feeling better. BBQ at friends. Stay off the booze as still not 100%.
S: Short board session in the evening. Warm-up problems and then trying my current project problem and it's mirror. Get to same high point as before but can't do final move.

Training plans were messed up by whatever I came down with mid-week. Hopefully it's shifted now so this week can be a bit better. Weight was down, though I think that was due to lack of appetite with feeling crap.

[yetix]

STG: resolve finger issues
MTG: Captain Hook, Bovine, Electrical Storm
LTG: Brad Pit, and la Fuente (stand)

65kg

M: Rest
T: light core workout because I was bored!
W: went to the clinic in sheffield for some shockwave therapy on my finger. Not sure how much it helped, but the guy there seemed certain I've got scar tissue on the intersseous muscle which attache's to the extensor tendon. also did some running and some front lever work
T: Running
F: Rest/moving house
S: played a hockey match for the first time in 12 months (I was dead afterwards!) quick session on the moonboard, felt pretty weak (could be the hockey though!)
S: Another session on the moonboard, felt significantly stronger but still shattered

[Duma]

Goals:
Get out more
More 8A's
8b

Body Audit: Right shoulder improving slowly.
Sleep: good.
71kg. 

M: Bloc. Way too many people and was pretty stressed from work by the time I arrived, just played on the comp wall. Good fun on gymnastic stuff, but doesn't feel like as effective training as TCA for me.
T: TCA, reds. Not really feeling it but managed one more, on the 35, prob 7B/+ ish. No progress on the rest - 9 to go still, which is pretty poor by my usual standards on this circuit.
W:
T: Bloc again, more stuff on the front, trying hard but not achieving much. hopefully improving in the background.
F: All day learning to ride motorbikes off road in wales - fun and knackering, slept loads.
S: As above but with more rain. Exhausted
S:

Meh.

[Bradders]

STG - Tourniquet
MTG - week off in October and two weeks off before Christmas. Hoping to finish off a couple of grit projects, notably Jason's Roof at Crookrise and Low Rider at Stanage
LTG - too many projects to list here.

M - Depot, 50' board session. Best ever links on a longstanding project and generally feeling a bit heavy but still strong.
T - rest
W - hangboard, max hangs. New PB managing 10 seconds with 20kg added on the small BM2K rungs, twice. Also did lots of front levers (with one leg tucked).
T - lunch: max (ish) squats, 5x4r @ 50kg. Definitely feeling stronger and form improving. Then a few sets of cable twists.
Evening: Depot volume. New reds are good!
F - rest
S - had planned to go to Crookrise. Arrived at the parking for 8am. Dry and reasonably cold. Hadn't thought to check the moor closure schedule! Ended up at Shipley Glen. Ran laps on Red Baron and very nearly repeated the roof. Felt a lot stronger on it than when I first did it. Otherwise just went round the circuit of technical problems until it rained.
Then went home and did hangboard 5x5 repeaters, 7 setsx6 reps on small BM2K rungs. Steady. Then did weighted pull ups; new PB of 2 reps with 32kg added.
S - rest, coming down with a cold 

[TobyD]

M
T pretty sure I went bouldering at the Bunker, but may have been Monday.
W Torbryan with Matt. Appalling greasy conditions, had a couple of TR goes on Threadbare LH but no progress. This feels worth 7c now.
T Repeaters on Beastmaker at the Bunker
F Rest.
S Wave did quite a few of the level 2s and tried a couple of level 3s.
S Wave 1 hour on level 2s and 3s, dabbled a bit on the lattice board.

Don't have a good idea of how strong/ fit I am at the moment; Some of the level twos on the current wave set felt hard. Lattice board I managed 30 moves, 7 minute rest, 36 moves, 7 minute rest, 23 or 4 moves. Anyone care to enlighten me on what this means?

[T_B]

This set of Level 2s are back to being at harder end of the scale. At least the ones on the Bleaustone and the yellow up the middle of the wave (presumably the setter ran out of a left hand foothold  )

[TobyD]

Thanks Tom! I didn't try them all but they seemed hard. The 10° bleaustone ones I thought were OK, but the vert ones and several of the steep ones were nails!

[nai]

Dunno when it was last reset, a couple of weeks ago the BS wall had one with mantel start. Thought the mantel was nails but after that it became impossible

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - dumbbell complex.
Thu - rest.
Fri - rest.
Sat - board. Not bad. Weights.
Sun - 1 cm session: + 30 kg x 6. One arm hangs San edge (rh + 10 kg, lh + 5 kg).
One foot bouldering 2 problems bodyweight. Tired.

Another hard week at work: up at 6, on the run by 6:45, back home between 6:30 and 9 pm. Really tired. Really happy though, the course I'm teaching is super hard but really rewarding.