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New 9a linkup at the Tor by Barrows (Read 4015 times)

Kingy

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New 9a linkup at the Tor by Barrows
September 18, 2017, 08:42:15 am
Alex has done a new 9a linkup of Belly of the Beast Font 8B into Sympathy in Choice Font 7B/+ into Waddage, French 8b, awesome!

Ali babar cave in Rodellar comes to the Tor!  :strongbench: :strongbench: :beer2:

remus

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#1 Re: New 9a linkup at the Tor by Barrows
September 18, 2017, 12:31:43 pm
Phwoar! That's some serious linkup madness!

dave

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#2 Re: New 9a linkup at the Tor by Barrows
September 18, 2017, 12:57:24 pm
Yawn about the whole finishing up Chimes part, but two questions here:

Is BOTB now only 8b down from the 8c or 8b+ or whatever CWP gave it?

If I am reading this correctly from the lip of Keen Roof this goes up and right? Is there anything up there you could call a decent finishing hold you could jump off from? Cos this on it's own looks like a logical variation finish for KR (had this link actually been done before?).

Ally Smith

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#3 Re: New 9a linkup at the Tor by Barrows
September 18, 2017, 01:13:15 pm
Is BOTB now only 8b 8B down from the 8c 8C or whatever CWP gave it?

I guess so - the obvious knee everyone uses on Ben's roof was excluded from CWP's ascent, though others have used it and taken 8B+

If I am reading this correctly from the lip of Keen Roof this goes up and right? Is there anything up there you could call a decent finishing hold you could jump off from? Cos this on it's own looks like a logical variation finish for KR (had this link actually been done before?).

Keen Roof/Sympathy in Choice (stand-up) ends at a good hold, from there you swing up into Chimes - the hold Alex flies off in this video: https://www.instagram.com/p/BY1OkkIhNcG/ The last move is a bit wild, and because some folk have missed their pads (Kingy for one!) we installed a bolt so this move can be top-roped. The presence of this bolt might be what gave Alex the inspiration to do the link-up?

The boulder problme link-up was done by Orrin earlier this year - also at 8B "Keen Sympathiser" https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=460425

T_B

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#4 Re: New 9a linkup at the Tor by Barrows
September 18, 2017, 01:45:04 pm
Dave that move up on SofC with your heel at head height is utterly terrifying and unjustifiable for a man in your position w/o a rope.

Kingy

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#5 Re: New 9a linkup at the Tor by Barrows
September 18, 2017, 07:49:39 pm
Yes the SoC new bolt was a sensible addition. I flew off the cutloose and ended up body slamming my hip into the rock when I missed all the pads, not cool.

I understand the Belly of the Beast downgrade is a result of the new sequence on Keen Roof for lanksters that involves reaching a fingerhold on the lip for the RH with the kneebar still in and then moving your LH into small undercut also with this kneebar in before moving the feet. Here is a video of Will Smith doing Keen this way youtube.com/watch?v=U33vrtq1NU4

I don't think anybody since CWP has eschewed the knee bar on Ben's on Belly of the Beast.

Tom Newman linked Fat Lip into SoC to give Fat Choice Font 8B last summer.

36chambers

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#6 Re: New 9a linkup at the Tor by Barrows
September 18, 2017, 08:06:16 pm
Has Keen Roof been officially downgraded now?

abarro81

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#7 Re: New 9a linkup at the Tor by Barrows
September 18, 2017, 09:27:44 pm
I gave Belly 8B because I didn't think it was 8B+ for me. You could make it (and this link) harder by staying low and going through Nacho's start to Keen, thus avoiding going out left to the knee on Ben's - this would be much better than CWP's version where you climb to the knee but then don't use it..

That bolt is very much appreciated for the moves on sympathy if your heel rips! Cheers to Ally and Ted for putting it in!

 

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