[Paul B]

I've found myself with a week of leave to use ~Oct this year. Earlier this year I tried to convince my Dad that he'd quite like to go up Snake Dyke and a few other big, steady classics in and around Yosemite/Tuolumne knowing that although they'd push him, he'd absolutely love the experience (perhaps afterwards); he wasn't that keen.

The problem I've now got is that I'm struggling to think of Euro-venues that offer big, easy climbing away from the alpine setting and weather risk that goes hand-in-hand (given the proposed time of year).

Any thoughts UKB?

Failing that I might have to throw myself on the mercy of the UK weather and take him sea-cliff tradding at the likes of Pembroke/Bosigran although the tides look pretty rubbish.

[cheque]

Failing that I might have to throw myself on the mercy of the UK weather and take him sea-cliff tradding at the likes of Pembroke/Bosigran although the tides look pretty rubbish.

They'll have to be really rubbish to rule Bosigran out.

[jwi]

The problem I've now got is that I'm struggling to think of Euro-venues that offer big, easy climbing away from the alpine setting and weather risk that goes hand-in-hand (given the proposed time of year).

Montserrat? Plenty of really easy multipitch routes, proper towers, some of the best weather in Europe, easy access 30 min from the airport.

I brought my father his first route on one of the towers in Montserrat when he was 69 (very fit for the age, but no climbing experience whatsoever). It was three-four pitches. I dont know how hard the easiest routes on the north side are, but they are plenty long.

[dunnyg]

There's some really easy sport routes in Montserrat 4s and 5s that are pretty long. I can have a look through the guide later if it's any use for some actually numbers (it's a few years since I went )

[mark20]

Costa Blanca? The S/HS ridge on Puig Campana, Bernia Ridge and there is a VS up the Penon de Ifach

Some easy 5+/6a routes in Riglos that get you to a summit

[Paul B]

They'll have to be really rubbish to rule Bosigran out.

Haven't you got some editing to do  ?

JWI / DunnyG - thanks. If you could dig out some numbers/names that'd be really useful.

Some easy 5+/6a routes in Riglos that get you to a summit

I did think about Mosquitoes but then what? I've had Nat struggle on a few stiff 6's at Riglos which worries me with Dad. It'd certainly be a good objective to add as a part of a wider trip.

[jwi]

I'll see if I can dig out some links from the Catalan blogsphere tonight. Think that's better than any guide books (I don't have the guidebooks for long routes on the south side [I think that would be 3-4 volumes of Luichy's Montserrat guidebooks])

[duncan]

How adventurous do you want to be?

Tafraout? I've not been but a friend has done Labyrinth Ridge on Aylim, an 800m VS, and enjoyed the whole experience.

Wadi Rum has lots of this kind of thing, again go for the experience as much as the climbing.


habrich in the Eye of Allah (400m, great rock scenery, about VS) looking down on Wadi Rum village. .

[mark20]

I did think about Mosquitoes but then what? I've had Nat struggle on a few stiff 6's at Riglos which worries me with Dad. It'd certainly be a good objective to add as a part of a wider trip.

Espolón del Adamelo (Macizo del Pisón) 6a and then Via Normal 5+ to get to the top of Pison Sur.
El Puro Normal 6b up the 'cigar' on the side of the pison Sur.
Misquitos 6b up Viscera, as you say.
There are a few shorter towers, Mallo Colorado, La Aguja Roja which have some good 3/4 pitch routes in the 5/low 6s

[AJM]

Montserrat would also be my pick. We went as the last trip pre baby last year when my wife was ~6 months and stuck mainly to easier things.

[kelvin]

There's also Meteora(sp), over in Greece. A few friends have been now and much preferred it Montserrat.

[Paul B]

How adventurous do you want to be?

Best to keep the adventure feel fairly low TBH.

Tafraout? I've not been but a friend has done Labyrinth Ridge on Aylim, an 800m VS, and enjoyed the whole experience.
Wadi Rum has lots of this kind of thing, again go for the experience as much as the climbing.

I'd really like to get here but think it's probably one best suited to Nat and I.

I watched the Petzl Rock Trip Meteora video and thought it looks awesome (and surely there's plenty of easy stuff):


Likewise, Montserrat seems like a decent option.

The backup plan (outside of the UK) is just to bundle him onto a plane to Kaly and go sport climbing. 

[andy popp]

I was going to suggest the VS on the backside of the Naranjo de Bulnes until I noticed the time of year you're going. I think October would probably be too late in the season.

[Wood FT]

I was going to suggest the VS on the backside of the Naranjo de Bulnes until I noticed the time of year you're going. I think October would probably be too late in the season.

Agreed, bloody good suggestion for summer time though, only abbed down in but it looks like brilliant climbing and a proper summit

[csl]

I watched the Petzl Rock Trip Meteora video and thought it looks awesome (and surely there's plenty of easy stuff):

Jacob Cook makes it sounds as though the easy stuff at Meteora is quite exciting... http://jacobclimbsthings.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/meteora.html

[Paul B]

What could possibly go wrong?
 

[Will Hunt]

If you want to keep the adventure on the low side then, depending on your dad's climbing ability, I thought that some of the easy multipitch routes in El Chorro were great fun. There's a few good ones that go right to the top of the Frontales. Perhaps not a week's worth of solid climbing but it'll be warm and stress free.

[Paul B]

This logbook is someone he often climbs with for an idea. The easier the better. I'm not too fussed if it ends up being easy with a bit of spice as that'll keep me entertained.

[duncan]

Jacob Cook makes it sounds as though the easy stuff at Meteora is quite exciting... http://jacobclimbsthings.blogspot.co.uk/2014/02/meteora.html

That's fine, Paul's leading. Just make sure you've got your prusiks.

[Will Hunt]

Is it just me, or does the baddie have a look of James Jacobs about him?
 

[Paul B]

Well, Meteora looks like the right time of year (Bond tick!) and seems to fit the bill even if I will have to turn into work bleary eyed from landing in the early hours.

Does anyone know the logistics? Sorry for requiring spoon feeding on this one.

Fly to Athens.
Train/Bus to Kalambaka or do I need a vehicle when there? It looks as if there's a scooter hire shop in town (what could possibly go wrong?)
Any accommodation recommendations?

[duncan]

Meteora is covered by the selected Greece Sport Climbing guidebook which looks good. Introduction, includes logistics. I've got the Hasse & Stutte guidebook which you're welcome to borrow (PMs are down again, try FB). It's ancient but seemingly the only printed information for many routes.

[Paul B]

Thanks Duncan.

Another member of this parish is posting me a guidebook (I'm currently not sure which one) but I'll get in touch on Facebook if I need to take you up on the offer (thanks btw). If there's anything really easy

I'ts booked.