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Shoulder position in fingerboarding / hangboarding (Read 2799 times)

CrimpyMcCrimpface

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I don't do as much fingerboarding as I feel I should, usually focus on shoulder stability in my training as its a weakness. However when I do I'm always wondering the same thing.

Is it better to hangboard with engaged shoulders or completely shrugged position?

From experience I've noticed holding engaged means I tire quicker, and that the part of my tricep which connects to whichever muscle is in the armpit stretches more. When I hold in a shrugged position I can maintain the position longer, or complete more sets on beastmaker app. But I still can't decide which is most beneficial. Seems like a decision between developing overall shoulder stability while hanging on fingers OR improving grip / forearm strength in isolation while ignoring the rest of the mechanism.

Any training gurus have any experience in this or thoughts?

joel182

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I am absolutely not a training guru, but I have never known anyone to advocate fingerboarding in a shrugged position.

Eva Lopez in this video on deadhang technique is firm on not shrugging.

And the the Lattice guys advise against it in this video.

Here's what Horst has to say about it, from this article:
Quote from: Eric Horst
It’s essential to train with good hangboard technique: Maintain moderate tension throughout your shoulders and upper torso by engaging your scapular stabilizers and maintaining a slight bend in your arms; relax from the hips down and avoid lifting your knees; most important, do not relax your shoulders and allow them to elevate into an extreme shrug position nearer your ears

CrimpyMcCrimpface

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Thanks ! Cleared up that doubt swiftly

bigironhorse

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I am absolutely not a training guru, but I have never known anyone to advocate fingerboarding in a shrugged position.

Eva Lopez in this video on deadhang technique is firm on not shrugging.

And the the Lattice guys advise against it in this video.

Here's what Horst has to say about it, from this article:
Quote from: Eric Horst
It’s essential to train with good hangboard technique: Maintain moderate tension throughout your shoulders and upper torso by engaging your scapular stabilizers and maintaining a slight bend in your arms; relax from the hips down and avoid lifting your knees; most important, do not relax your shoulders and allow them to elevate into an extreme shrug position nearer your ears

I have frequently come across this too. I usually fingerboard in the recommended shoulders engaged position, but sometimes resort to a fully relaxed form to squeeze out a few more reps. And I always hang fully relaxed when testing for one rep max on an  edge; as I want finger strength to be the limiting factor, not holding an engaged position. Anyone know why this is not recommended? It doesn't feel particularly dangerous to me. The number one thing to avoid for me would be slumping from an engaged position to slumped mid hang as that would definitely cause some irritation/tendon trapping in the shoulder.

teestub

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Ged

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I've started paying attention to this after reading about it somewhere, and it really seems to have helped my long term golfers elbow susceptibility.  To the extent that I can feel pain with poor form, and then adjust to good form and feel absolutely nothing.  It definitely makes hangs harder, but I suppose that can only be a good thing.

The rule I use for maintaining form is just to keep your ears and shoulders as far apart as possible.

tomtom

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I 'retrained' my FB-ing a year or two ago to only do them with shoulders engaged. It took a little while to get used to (and my shoulders hurt before my fingers did) but now its second nature - and its always my fingers that pack up before anything else.. I've no idea if its helped my climbing in the meantime - but its not done it any harm!

 

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