Yes, I should've mentioned that. The climbs I've felt best on in the past have probably all been 20m or less, and fairly cruxy. I was keen on the idea of the 8s at L'Olla, Siurana, but they all seem to be 8a+ now.
This all stems from the fact that, when I've previously explored this idea, the concensus was basically climb loads of routes, a massive pyramid of sport grades working up, etc which basically is not going to happen now.
Everybody talks like bodyweight one arm hangs are a natural expectation
First, it sounds like you want to redpoint a route at the grade rather than become an "8a climber".
Second, I would read Dave McLeod's "9 out of 10 climbers" book, especially all the bits that Nibile hates about looking at the broad life context of your climbing ambitions rather than just physical performance.
I'd also echo the bathroom scales fingerboarding concept (which I recall being mercilessly mocked for on UKB a few years ago - it seems it is now mainstream)
The Cider Soak is probably the one, in terms of things down south...
I'm trying both these routes at the moment, though rather sporadically. Cider soak can be frustratingly seepy at times and is nails, you'll certainly be keeping your 8a tick safe with that one. Leather whip mick is highly enjoyable and just a matter of fitness once you have the Avenged crux dialled in, I think it's bottom end 8a but still worthy of the grade. People get up to fitness on empire wall and they all start feeling soft. If you've not done Avenged it'll feel desperate on first attempt. Let me know if you want any beta for either route, a local gave me the hose down and I've also got what I feel to be easier beta for the top of LWM
If you struggle with getting weekends in the UK, you may end up deciding that doing one on a trip is a better fit (obviously being dependent on how holidays work - may not be feasible if holidays are all family hols!).
Wasn't clear whether midweek is flexible in that you can fit training in or flexible in that you can smash all the way to a crag and climb?
One major thing is consistency, especially if motivation if a bit up and down, as it sounds from your OP like it may have been with weight loss? On that front, if you're making a training plan then being somewhat flexible with it will be important if you've got a busy life. The subtlety of exactly what you're doing is likely to matter much less than the consistency of doing something productive - especially initially.
Whatever you do, don't take up golf!Or cycling!
Yoss, other than what others wrote, for my part I think that you should concentrate on losing fat, rather than just losing weight.
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