[danm]

I've been wondering how much a climbers mass makes a difference to how much they get whipped in by a fall. For a fixed impact force, a climber with a low mass will experience a higher acceleration than one who is heavier (the reason why kids can't safely use adults via ferrata sets). Essentially, they come to a stop more rapidly, and the rope stretches less. Isn't that basically the same as a hard catch, making them more likely to swing in and invert? I need someone smarter than me to do some mathematical modelling!

[dave]

The peril of the dieting sportclimber.

[Johnny Brown]

I see on Facebook Mina has been back at Malham wearing a helmet. So presumably she's rethought her initial conclusion.

[lagerstarfish]

I've been wondering how much a climbers mass makes a difference to how much they get whipped in by a fall. For a fixed impact force, a climber with a low mass will experience a higher acceleration than one who is heavier (the reason why kids can't safely use adults via ferrata sets). Essentially, they come to a stop more rapidly, and the rope stretches less. Isn't that basically the same as a hard catch, making them more likely to swing in and invert? I need someone smarter than me to do some mathematical modelling!

not if they chose a thinner (and lighter) rope

[danm]

I've been wondering how much a climbers mass makes a difference to how much they get whipped in by a fall. For a fixed impact force, a climber with a low mass will experience a higher acceleration than one who is heavier (the reason why kids can't safely use adults via ferrata sets). Essentially, they come to a stop more rapidly, and the rope stretches less. Isn't that basically the same as a hard catch, making them more likely to swing in and invert? I need someone smarter than me to do some mathematical modelling!

not if they chose a thinner (and lighter) rope

That would help, no doubt. For climbers around the 50kg mark, a half rope would probably be ideal as long as the belay device could handle the rope, as they are drop tested with 55kg to get the impact force figure.

[Paul B]

Wow, does that mean I can break out the super skinny Mammut half for redpointing? I'm sure it'd be fine in a Gri Gri+?
 

[danm]

Wow, does that mean I can break out the super skinny Mammut half for redpointing? I'm sure it'd be fine in a Gri Gri+?
 

I'm sure you'd be fine Paul, I mean what's the worst that could happen? 

Beal Opera would probably fit the bill, tested as a single and half rope, with as low an impact force as you'll get for a single rope, and can be used with a GriGri+ with care.

[Oldmanmatt]

Yes, I was belaying a climber not much over that yesterday and I wouldn't want to have been doing that with a half rope.
Also, there was the small matter of my 81kg lob off the second bolt that resulted in me getting a head up my arse...


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[Wood FT]

good effort Matt!

[monkoffunk]

https://instagram.com/p/Bsdi3HXnFaq/

More bad news from Mina!