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Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c (Read 8584 times)

jwi

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#25 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 04, 2017, 04:00:13 pm
Oh well, I just remember reading something he wrote about how he had no interest in difficult climbing anymore. He's still climbing off course (at a very high level as well, but not at 9b I think?)

jwi

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Oldmanmatt

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#27 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 04, 2017, 04:33:36 pm
That would be my bet too ... but its location might be a factor. A lot of the wads visit Flatanger pretty regularly.

How many of the wads have done more than one or two 9b? Sharma who's unlikely to leave Barcelona for long stretches of time, Megos who's unlikely to work anything for more than a few days, Schubert, who's busy with competition, Amma, who's quit climbing, and eh... I'm starting to draw blanks here... Gisolfi? who's also busy with comps.

I hear Shark's been working it, but is struggling to get his ladder past the kneebar.
Probably not climbing fast enough.

HaeMeS

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Fiend

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#29 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 04, 2017, 05:25:28 pm
Moons overgrading article in OTE in the mid 90s is classic.

Damn right  ;D worthy of a scan and repost if anyone's got it, esp. in light of Ondra's FA...

Clart

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#30 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 04, 2017, 07:48:41 pm
Moons overgrading article in OTE in the mid 90s is classic.

Damn right  ;D worthy of a scan and repost if anyone's got it, esp. in light of Ondra's FA...

Standby, my powers of forum manipulation are weak but see if this works (from the 'Ben Moon interview thread circa 2013):


From OTE 53, Dec '95/ Jan '96.


















[/quote]

Coops_13

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#31 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 05, 2017, 08:00:29 am
Enjoyed that, has anyone attempted to repeat Akira?

EDIT: Just found this: https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/ Good read
« Last Edit: September 05, 2017, 08:20:11 am by Coops_13 »

Fiend

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#32 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 05, 2017, 09:02:51 am
 :2thumbsup:

gme

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#33 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 05, 2017, 09:22:54 am
Interesting to read this now and looks like ben was right all along only the outcome has been totally opposite to what he was suggesting.  All the routes he says are overgraded have pretty much stayed the same but the routes he was adamant were  correct have gone up a level.

The chart from jibe is pretty close to perfect as well.

Doylo

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#34 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 05, 2017, 10:00:57 am
Ye those French 8c+s stayed at 8c+ and Ben's British examples Sea of Tranquility and Liquid Ambar went up. And they've still had sod all ascents. Caff's done neither yet despite considerable effort (he did Big Bang twice remember ).

jwi

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#35 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 05, 2017, 10:07:52 am
Huber's routes have been mostly upgraded. They have all exactly one repeat, by some chez guy.

ferret

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#36 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 05, 2017, 10:52:33 am
Always loved Rouhlings cartoon in that article, hands down the best contribution.
Friends of mine in Targasonne knew him really well, put up or repeated most of the early 8s there. Undoubtedly was capable of climbing at or above the 8B mark way back. My friends said he was generally an incredible climber, but truly disturbing on his home stuff (where they had climbed with him on several occasions).
One of my friends who was a total roof specialist (did the second ascent of Fatman assis) put quite a bit of effort into Akira. His thoughts were that it was an 8B into an 8B with a crap rest on a 3 finger pocket in a roof between the two. Probably 8C boulder, which is how he saw it, as he thought the roped bit at the end was pointless. He built a vague training replica which looked disgustingly hard, don't think he ever linked further than half way through the 2nd 8B section.

HaeMeS

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#37 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 05, 2017, 11:48:16 am
If correct, it would make Akira the first 8C boulder.  :-\

Strange Ondra or Megos never tried (?) the route.
Despite not looking very attractive, its still the first claimed 9b.
21 years ago!
 
I remember Ondra mentioning the route in an interview (in the lines of to far away, not attractive iirc).

Rouhling climbing Autre Coté du Ciel:
Rouhling climbing (part of) Akira:

petejh

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#38 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 05, 2017, 01:06:34 pm
An aside from the topic, but you don't see quality articles like that in today's climbing media (print or digital).

jwi

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#39 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 05, 2017, 01:40:17 pm
I like that Akira video. It's the only proof I've seen that Rouhling can link four hand moves on a climb.

Will Hunt

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#40 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 05, 2017, 01:49:20 pm
Fair play to Ondra on doing a hard route, but his post climb celebration game needs some serious work. Are we going to start a thread to replace YYFY with "I'm just really happy"? Are we fuck.

kelvin

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#41 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 05, 2017, 03:38:07 pm
 :beer2:

Seb had a tin of cold beer with dinner but couldn't see one near Ondra - maybe he was on the vodka?

 :please:

Kingy

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#42 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 05, 2017, 09:36:18 pm

Evo. Back int day Sellers linked from the block under the roof to the belay after just a few days. Then took 20+ days to redpoint the route.

Good to hear a vignette about Evo, I always thought Nic did Evo very quickly. I know he did some awesome links on the top wall but had thought the whole route rolled over pretty quick too. I guess the start to the block is only about V5.

My grading theories have changed over the last few years, adding anything into something hard seems to raise the bar disproportionately higher. The first few juggy pulls of Mecca up to the second bolt make it massively harder than going from sat on the 2nd bolt to the top. Many other examples out there

gme

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#43 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 05, 2017, 10:44:17 pm
Nic did evo in 6-7 days. It was progress that took him ages.

Kingy

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#44 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 05, 2017, 10:52:29 pm
Yes I heard it took Nic 40+ days for Progress, nothing by the standards of some of today's siegers!

T_B

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#45 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 06, 2017, 07:07:17 am
Ok so maybe he did block to top in a day or so? The point is adding just a few relatively 'easy' moves was significant.

Doylo

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#46 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 06, 2017, 09:35:38 am
It's time on rock that counts. Especially when climbing into bouldery sequences.  Doesn't matter if it's relatively easy. That's why it's slightly surprising Ondra did his route 3rd go from the bottom. Guess he was ready.

abarro81

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#47 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 06, 2017, 09:52:44 am
It's cos he's fully embraced the way of the knee, and the associated blessings from the Gods that this brings with it. The route looks totally awesome, I love that the hardest thing in the world is novel, interesting looking climbing with inverts and all that kinda stuff. Old school hard cruxyness in a new school format.

On a totally off-topic tangent, I genuinely can't understand for the life of me how it's possible to do Evo in ~6 days and take ~40 on Progress. Was he using a whack sequence? Every move is utterly trivial compared to the moves on Evo!!
« Last Edit: September 06, 2017, 09:57:47 am by abarro81 »

Doylo

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#48 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 06, 2017, 10:12:53 am
Used to be more holds on Progress too. Jerry swooped in and swiped the FA quicktime.  :wub:

gme

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#49 Re: Ondra climb his flatanger project 9c
September 06, 2017, 01:34:43 pm
It was more like 20 days including all the cleaning, glueing etc and over two summers of Kilnsey on off wetness etc. Plus its was to be a 1st ascent before Jerry nicked it.

As far as i can remember it was the longest time nic spent on anything with most others taking sub 5 other than evo. It was also the last hard thing he did as i guess it finished him off. He got into "trad Bollocks" (his quote) after that.