[Wood FT]

It's cats and dogs here so I'll kick off

STG: Leather Whip Mick, 8a DWS
MTG: Cider Soak, 8a & Patpence 8a+ DWS
LTG: Mecca

Mon - Berry Head dws, over Rainbow Bridge again to try the Barrell traverse 7c extension falling off trying to campus the second half, I'm not sure I actually like the way it climbs, at least the way I'm doing it. Finished on Chrome Bum 6b+ which climbs the wall above the pink block, had a massive smile on my face, highly recomended!
Tue -
Wed - Lower Sharpnose, abbed in with no expectations and noticed Wraith E4 6a was chalked, climbed it without much drama and really enjoyed getting something back at the rest below the looooonnnngg move at the top. chuffed.


Thu -
Fri -
Sat - Lulworth Cove, Stair Hole dws. Got back on Gates of Greyskull 7b+ and managed it second go of the day (7th go over a few years), such a great climb with a relatively committing crux at the very top on side pulls. Had an attempt on Mark of the Beast 7c with running beta and got much higher than expecting, found the first 1/3 very intimidating as you move back right over the ledge so was over-gripping and scared. Though I didn't get to the crux last moves I'm confident I should be able to get this finished on another visit, worth getting cold if I'm not back soon enough. Finished on Crazy Notion 7a, elbows by my ears.

Video of Gates here -


Sun - Admin/procrastination i.e. this!

Not really focused on the sport goals, the sea is too warm.

[Coops_13]

MTG: 7C

M: Tremeirchion on the way home as mate sprained his ankle the night before. Did Flags of Iron 6C and had a quick play in 36 Flags, finger sore.
T-F: nothing
S: Weekend in Cornwall with family but managed to sneak less than an hour at hodrevy bouldering. Did Low Flat Holds to Break 7A (more like 6C) and was chuffed to get The Sweep 7A+.
S: nothing

[tomtom]

Looks like a great week Guy! Going strong Coops!

M: Swam in the sea. Good. Baby getting better - we started to relax.

Tu: Drove back from Norfolk to Manchester. 7 hours, two stops.

We: Drive to Hull - work. Etc. Etc.

Th: nothing inspiring...

Fr: A. DAY. OFF. Given a pass out. Decided to head to Blackstone Edge... decidedly rusty and grit un-prepared.. Aimed to have a crack at Recalibrate (a 7B on the trad walls). I was no-where near that (a bit anti my style) but had great fun working the 7A to the left that started from a sit straight into a double frogs legged knee bar - crimp, release knees and pop for jug (and onwards upwards). Excellent. Had my usual try at fridge hugger (7B+) and was shit. Great day out though - and finished off with a poor style ascent of Blackstone Best (a superb tricksy 6B arete)...

Sa: Went to WiltonFest in the afternoon with TTjnr. WiltonFest is apparently the LARGEST UK climbing festival... and it was really busy - several hundred there I'd guess... Mainly chuffers and the walls of the Wiltons were bedecked with ropes and bright coloured helmets (I'll leave the interpretation literal or not) ascending them

Boulderising wise - a smaller crew - but got to play around on an arete with Mr Crusher holds (nice guy - good to meet him) and Robin - and met up with Caleb and crew later on under the square.

Su: Got out before the rain... got to Rubicon.. met Kelvin of this parish for the first time (hello! pleasure to meet you) and felt good and poppy warming up - but was weak and feeble on the Press - but moved to pulling on and slapping rather than just pulling on Was also showed some new beta for Kudos with a high LF and big flag to get RH over to RH flake.. not sure it'll ever work but felt quite good and gave me another excercise

[kelvin]

Su: Got out before the rain... got to Rubicon.. met Kelvin of this parish for the first time (hello! pleasure to meet you) and felt good and poppy warming up - but was weak and feeble on the Press - but moved to pulling on and slapping rather than just pulling on Was also showed some new beta for Kudos with a high LF and big flag to get RH over to RH flake.. not sure it'll ever work but felt quite good and gave me another excercise

A great day all round - everyone made progress and Mark ticked both the 7a and the 7b+  Nice to finally put a 'real' face to the name.

[36chambers]

M:
T: Indoors. 30 board.
W:
T: Cliff. Beautiful weather and reasonable connies making me psyched for the grit again. Somehow found myself under Canine 8A. Couldn't figure out the slap over the lip, but got the rest sorted. Finished with PE on DWR, managed Stu's LH into DWR LH and fell off the end of Demonist (which is DWR into reversing Stu's LH to reach the crack). Darkness stopped play.
F:
S: Wedding.
S: Repeaters: 10 sets, 6 reps, 5 on 5 off. 2 hands on smallest BM2K edges. Probably too easy as I felt completely fine at the end of it.

[shark]

11.4-5

M. Afternoon. Anston. Hot. Went to Woodys but Soul Crusher was a bit smeggy. Joined by Rob B. He was keen for Hidden Wall to have a go on Jack the Nipper 7B+ he'd tried earlier in week. Impressive buttress. A group there on 7B+ already. Rob got it first go. I got a good sequence for next time. Class problem. Good shaded venues in the heat

T. Eve. Depot. Random circuiting on teh steep board mainly of the 6c+

W. Eve. Crag X on way back from Manc. Felt wiped. Good conditions. Tried working crux of Moffatrocity 7B+. Couldn't get close. Worked Zippys Traverese 7A. Did it in overlapping halves except the final match. Suitably decompressed from work shizzle by the end

T.

F. PM Back out to Anstons with the boys to Hidden Wall again. Did the 6c+'s. We then had goes on Jack the Nipper. Made some progress and beta refinement. Worth another session. Eve Drove to Devon

S. Wedding in Devon

S. More feasting. Came home. 

Week dominated by Cotswolds launch. Just going to keep plugging away at the bouldering I think with the boys.

[tommytwotone]

Goal: Font7anything (realised this should be time-bound) by end of year.


Starting 100 reps again. And for some reason I've started getting ideas about finally ticking off Long John's Slab again.


M: Bank Holiday, nowt.
T: Nowt.
W:Nowt.
T: Depot session eve. A bit weird - still feeling weak generally, have lost all my finger strength (wobbled up a few V3-V5 reds), and now also appear now to have zero stamina. Was totally cooked after about an hour. Left unhappy.
F: Nowt.
S: nowt apart from a walk round the village blackberry foraging.
S: on Una's request (yay!) went to Climbing Depot. Ended up spending over 3 hours there, she climbed loads (but didn't go over about 3 moves up but hey, she's keen), and she also sat happily doing colouring in and jigsaws from the toy box while I very quickly burned myself out. 100 reps before tea when we got back.


After a fallow period over the last couple of weeks due to holidays, tattoo recovery, abysmal sleep patterns across our household and work stress I'm yet again hitting reset to try and get back into a routine / good habits.

[Duma]

Goals:
Fix shoulder
More 8A's
8b

Body Audit: Left shoulder feeling ok, restricting myself to rehab and 6 or below for now, think will start some ring stuff this week.
Sleep: Average
70kg.

M: Nothing, recovery from weekend.
T: TCA, shoulder rehab and all the oranges, surprisingly OK considering.
W: Nothing, shoulder rehab.
T: Nothing.
F: Nothing, drive to exmoor for wedding, too much booze.
S: as above, but less driving and more booze
S: drive home, sleep lots. Fed amazingly by amazing GF.

Very little climbing again, looking forward to a bit less partying and a bit more training for the next few weeks...

[yetix]

STG: resolve finger issues (seem to be improving) and start training properly again
MTG: Captain Hook, Bovine, Electrical Storm
LTG: Brad Pit, and la Fuente (stand)

67kg (was actually 65 sunday morning, but then I ate waaaaay to much sunday evening)

Shoulders + fingers starting to feel significantly better (started doing some contrast baths daily for fingers which has helped massively (could just be placebo))

M: Session at the depot manchester, a couple more yellows ticked off
T: Rest
W: Session at the depot manchester, did new pinks upto 23, got spanked by 24 so got a couple more purples done.
T: Light Yoga class
F: session at rockover pretty sure all the v6's and v7's done now with a couple v8s(+s left to work)
S: weights + TRX session followed by meeting up with some friends from uni and eating far too much!
S: Churnet - Wrights Rock, tried fingers but the final hold was damp. also tried simple simon (holds felt a little too small for my recovering fingers, maybe once they're a little better I'll try again)

[T_B]

M -
T - Lunch Autobelays - 5, 6a x 2, 6b+, 6b+, 6b+, 6c, 7a+, 7a, 6b+ all on-sight. PM 11k - exterminator recce. Hamstring incredibly tight, so decided not to race at weekend : (
W - Lunch Autobelays - 5, 6a+ x 2, 6b+ x 2, 6c, 6b+, 7a+ x 2. Fell off the 7a. Tired.
T - Lunch - 6k on flat concentrating on engaging my glutes.
F - Lunch Lattice - warmed up, then did 87 moves, rest then 56 moves, just to gauge where I'm at. Autobelays 6c, 7a+.
S -
S - Burbage 9am, 12 degrees with a strong breeze. Warmed up at bridge, then repeated WSS to the break, then tried Famous Grouse. Worked out beta for me that'll work not using the high heel (too severe on my hammy), nor the OG high step (too high a step for my long legs/stiff lower back). Sat on left heel and reached the decent sloper, but couldn't quite get feet up. Tried Breakfast no foot block, which is nails, did the standard with, which took a lot of goes.

My finger injury is a minor PIP Joint/Collateral ligament injury. I've been taping it. It doesn't hurt when climbing, but I would not want to crimp hard on it on a board. It didn't like the Lattice board (lateral movement/twisting). It swells after climbing. So, going to keep doing routes and try not to crimp too hard to see whether it settles down.

Nice to be back on the grit! Shame it's warming up a bit this week.

[Fiend]

Sa: Went to WiltonFest in the afternoon with TTjnr. WiltonFest is apparently the LARGEST UK climbing festival... and it was really busy - several hundred there I'd guess... Mainly chuffers and the walls of the Wiltons were bedecked with ropes and bright coloured helmets (I'll leave the interpretation literal or not) ascending them

I managed to miss Tomtom?? Possibly a good thing as I was climbing badly and in a bit of a grump.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - boxing bag.
Tue - rest.
Wed - rest.
Thu - trap bar deadlifts, up to 128 kg x 1. Did it quite slowly, felt controlled but I with too much grind. Better to be explosive. Then one armers and front lever pulls. Still 31 degrees at 7:30 PM.
Fri - rest.
Sat - rest.
Sun - rest.

Fucking hell another week of dining out and drinking loads. Oh well I had fun.
Temps finally below 30. Not by much though.

[psborland]

First week back from 2 weeks 13-27th August family holiday during which I managed :
 5 hangboard endurancy sessions (7on-3off x 10 reps x 6 sets ) 2 core sessions and one pull up endurance session (124 pull ups 6 on the minute) and generally pickled my fingers in pool water and suncream .
Respect to anyone (Nibile) that maintains any kind of training regime in that heat !

M. General bouldering to ease back in
T. Core b1 3 rounds
W. BBC limit bouldering
Th.
F. Pull up volume short session of repeaters
S.
Su. Cheedale Embankment stayed dry until about 5:30 felt very tired need some general conditioning especialy upper back.

[fried]

M/T - rest, back seems to be O.K this week.
W- Indoors, another good session ticking off the remaining 6A ish stuff, only 3 to go to have done the whole circuit. Probably all changed now. Plus lots of working moves on harder stuff.

Th - Nothing
Fr - Indoors Arkose, change of wall for time reasons....fucking hell everything is nails, even the beginner stuff, leave thoroughly depressed which I admit is my problem.
Sa - Nothing...too much red wine
Su - Tired and hungover, drag myself to Bois Rond. Quick warm-up then decided to try a blue problem https://bleau.info/rond/3465.html that I'd never had a go at, took a lot longer than expected but fantastic problem, realised how much I have to learn about body positioning. Continuned on to one of my nemesises; number 2 on the blue circuit https://bleau.info/rond/3434.html. Normally I'm not flexible enough to do the start, but for some reason today I could, got onto the slab start, but fingers too sore to get it done.

Good working out sessions on the beginning of Silver Lago https://bleau.info/rond/3474.html and quickly back to my high point on Little Shakespeare https://bleau.info/rond/3476.html, though I'll have to work another sequence as I can't get my foot up high enough for the rock over that a lot of sequences use.

[Bradders]

STG - finish off Ebola at Anston and stick to training plan
MTG - week off in October and two weeks off before Christmas. Hoping to finish off a couple of grit projects, notably Jason's Roof at Crookrise, Tourniquet at Kentmere and Low Rider at Stanage
LTG - too many projects to list here.

M - Brimham, I had good reasons to go (good circuit of powerful problem which I have fairly wired and a loo so my girlfriend was more comfortable coming out) but in hindsight it was bank holiday weekend and as busy as a theme park. Anyway repeated The Grouch, Whisky Galore and some other plus did Pounce which was a fun way to lose some skin.
T - Depot, session goal to tick two purples and a yellow, all of which I did very quickly, then spent an hour and a bit on the 50' board. Good session, psyched.
W - rest
T - Depot, another session goal to work two yellows. Did one from two moves in and close on the other. Then 50' board for an hour again. Progress on a couple of projects. Think I need to start working on using smaller holds.
F - rest
S - Kentmere, second session on Tourniquet. Set myself the goal of just doing the two crux moves; neither of which I'd managed on my first visit. Surprised myself by firstly doing them and then getting the link through them to the top. 'Just' need to add the start now. Also found two different knee bars so might lower the grade but I don't care; it's about the line.
S - rest

Cracking week.

[tomtom]

Sa: Went to WiltonFest in the afternoon with TTjnr. WiltonFest is apparently the LARGEST UK climbing festival... and it was really busy - several hundred there I'd guess... Mainly chuffers and the walls of the Wiltons were bedecked with ropes and bright coloured helmets (I'll leave the interpretation literal or not) ascending them

I managed to miss Tomtom?? Possibly a good thing as I was climbing badly and in a bit of a grump.

I did keep an eye out for any unusual use of coloured camouflage attire - but didn't spot you. Were you in the group under the Swine?

[lagerstarfish]

M - mini works with the lad - I climbed badly - managed to find a few easy 5+ things to do 4 reps on - impressed non climbing, but attractive young parents
Tu-Th - razzing around London with the kids - ankle hurting due to long periods on feet
F - Works after work - climbed like a one armed octogenarian with cystitis
Sat - Sun camping with the kids - cooked dead animals to a reasonably high standard - did some gentle fingerboard warm ups and filled a skip with garden waste

this week is looking better already