[Nibile]

What? It's 1 pm and no Power Club?

Power Club

Mon - bouldering.
Tue - bouldering: 7a+ and 7b+.
Wed - bouldering.
Thu - boxing bag 1/1 x 10.
Fri - snatch pulls up to PB 71 kg x 2. Javorek complex (power) 46 kg x 2 reps x 2.
Sat - rest.
Sun - dumbbell complex x 3; boxing bag, Tabata x 2. Bad idea.

[fried]

What? It's 1 pm and no Power Club?

Bank holiday Monday in the U.K innit

Weather damp and humid with Amazon style downpours.

M- Indoors, ticking through the 6A stuff very quickly, though taking no risk, back is still a bit dodgy.
Th - Ditto
Su - Ditto, plus 2x6B, feeling good, back still not perfect though. Doubt if it ever will be.

Fairly uninspiring read, my apologies, but climbing O.K. although the setting seems to be soft at the moment.

[lagerstarfish]

M - warm up on fingerboard to try to reduce joint pain
Tu - lots of DIY followed by The Works - managed a few 6s that I couldn't do last week
W - managed a good 50 mins "body scan meditation" as part of mindfulness course - my most successful attempt at meditation ever
Th - gym - a few back to back sets of pullups, dips, pressups, dumbell complex, fast running before moving on to the main event - the trap bar deadlift - trying to get my technique sorted despite limited range of bad ankle so light weights only
F - rest
Sa - tennis with the little lad in the morning and later did some pottering at Rubicon - only the 5s due to toe and finger pain - bumped into the legendary Stone, who was carrying the worlds longest clip-stick
Su - warmed up with some gentle gardening and then moved on to tradition beer and barbecue supersets

[SA Chris]

M- Not much - first day in new office.
T - First day of school - very little time for much else
W - exploring woods by new office on MTB - circa 16 km. Wet and muddy.
T - cycled to work and back - 29.1 km  there (roads closed due to AWPR work) 22.4 km back
F - easy lunchtime 5 km, turned into 6.8 (got lost!)
S - nothing - barbeque  / carboload / meat feast
S - Aberdeen half marathon 1:48:22 made up.
 

[36chambers]

M:
T: Indoors. Too hot. Couldn't really do much on the boards. Dabbled on the campus boards.
W:
T: Indoors. Much better conditions. Flashed various comp problems and set some good, crimpy, strung out, problems on the 30. Starting to good on the new ratty crimps.
F:
S: Ilkley. Back of the calf. Did Calf Classic 7B and made good progress on Bernie the Bolt 7B+, just one more tricky move to figure out high up. Having not done much highballing recently I was secretly happy to move on.
S: Simon's Seat et al. Good day out climbing the easier stuff. Stumbled across an impressive looking prow (Maverick Mick 7C+ at Lord's Seat) which I couldn't believe I wasn't aware of. Turns out it is in the guide but with no topo pic it's easy to overlook. Had a few, end of the day, goes and managed all but the first move (which is where the real difficultly lies). Surprised to not find any mention of this problem online, considering how good it is and how it literally faces McNab and is about 25 metres away from it. Anyway, I now have a reason to go back up there.

[lagerstarfish]

made good progress on Bernie the Bolt 7B+, just one more tricky move to figure out high up.

I watched Mark Leach do BTB following my beta - I shouted out beta for the hands; his feet were fucking everywhere - mostly just waving about in the breeze
very impressive (before pads existed)

I blame this experience for my development of poor footwork

[shark]

11.3-5

M.Eve. Depot. Unstructured circuits 

T. Eve. Stopped in at Crag X on way home. Tried JR. Ok but not great conditions. Touched but didnt latch slot once or twice.

W.

T.

F. PM Anston with boys. Ben had identified a 7C/+ (Soul Crusher) which he thought looked "indoory" enough in style for him. Buttress turned our to be super close to the road. We did a soft 7A on the left and got to work on the roof. Experimented in different ways of getting my arse of the ground. Went for a walk to the Wave for a rest. Bumped into Emma F, AndyB and baby. Had a chat went back and they joined us. Surprised myself by getting bum up - latching intermediate then going again for next slot.

S.

S. AM. Crag X. Kicked Ben out of bed. Conditions felt good. Team old skool turned up. Conditions seemed to condense a bit. No matter - got JR on third go. Ecstatic. Then Ben managed to do it with a scary high heel. Result.

Getting psyched for the bouldering at the moment as climing well and want to see how far I can take it. Should be doing AnCap training etc for Oak rather than going outside so much - but really enjoying the bouldering so fuck it.

In other news Ben got the results he needed to go to Bristol to do Maths and Tommy also got outstanding results in his GCSE's so all good on home front. What with doing JR as well, things can only go downhill from here.

Facebook video of me dropping the final move of JR nine months ago https://www.facebook.com/890815603/videos/10157934861790604/

[Coops_13]

STG: Keep up the training
MTG: 7C

M:
T: Indoors. Good board session
W: Had planned a fingerboard session but instead had some kind of allergic reaction to cherries?!? got some drugs and a trip in an ambulance instead, all fine now
T:
F:
S: Relatively leisurely start from Birmingham. Lily Savage boulders, did Paul o Grady 6C+ relatively quickly but didn't get on well with the sit (blames warm conditions). Also tried (and failed on) the lowball fridge, The Cannon 7A. Milestone Buttress boulders, did Bombshell 6C+ and couldn't work out Marilyn Monroe 7A. Went to look at Harvey Oswald 7A+ but couldn't bone on those crimps. Did Jez's Arete 6C, really good! Went to try Tormented Evaporation 7A+ at the end but couldn't do it. Good day
S: Big day. Sheep Pen, did Toe Dragon into Dog Shooter 7A+. Went to try the Pinch 7A+ but couldn't even pull off the floor on those crimps, did The Punch (RH arete ) 6C. Craig y Llyn, flashed Voie Normale 6B before getting to work on the harder lines. In the end did Alice High 6C+, Alice 7A and Voie Normale Sit 7A. Mega problems! Finished the day at the Cirque of Unclingables at Craig Nant y Fedw, bumped into Si Panton  who gave mint beta which allowed me to do JC4PM 7A and flash This Hoover Sucks 6B+. Knackered but sick day

Good weekend in Wales checking out some new locations, vid of a few of the climbs below:

[Wood FT]

Nice one Shark, bloody good effort, and well done to Ben and Tommy

STG: Leather Whip Mick, 8a
MTG: Cider Soak 8a, Patpence 8a+
LTG: fuck it, Mecca.

Mon -
Tue -
Wed - Gf veto'd planned solo dws mission so did application work and went to Ansteys in the evening, muggy, 3 goes on Leather Whip Mick all ending at the crux but going to the top, ended with an arm melting dog up Empire.
Thu -
Fri -
Sat - LQP & Berry Head DWS, early start for high tide and managed to climb Blue Planet 7b+, very happy, it's been 3 sessions and 7 falls making it the longest project and it feels great to have finished it. One of the best in the country by anyone's measure, here's a pic of a friend climbing it today.



Headed over to Berry Head and tried Strawberry Seal 7b+, this goes up via big moves halfway across the Barrel extension to Rainbow Bridge, fell on the flash with the finishing jug in hand off a dyno but readjusted and plummeted, easy second go. Finished on what I thought was Aeronautics 6c but turned out to be the Lost Locals 6b+, oh the irony.

Sun - Broken

[user deactivated]

Su - warmed up with some gentle gardening and then moved on to tradition beer and barbecue supersets

But how do you prepare yourself for the gardening? Having sustained a recent back injury preparing a bed for perennials I like to do 5 reps of 'heads shoulders knees and toes' before even considering picking up a trowel.

Nice photo guy, sounds like an epic DWS mission.

Good effort again Simon

Mon- nothing

Tues- wall, power endurance and then black circuit

Wed- deadhangs and power endurance squeezed in as away thurs fri.

Sat- dead-hangs one arm with a pulley (grim n weak) then core

Sun - Nesscliffe with a buddy. Still n hot conditions. Scraped up 10 O'Clock Saturday morning, an old Dawes top rope problem climbed by Nick Dixon in 1997. Felt every bit eng 6C the way I managed it, Nesscliffe is a reachy place! Head pointed this although it was groundupable the idea of swinging around on old pegs and cams in sandy soft rock didn't seem fair to me or the rock. Was really happy to climb it tho!

[T_B]

Back home after 5 wks in France. 12 days in Font, followed by 10 days in Targasonne and another 10 days in Font. Mixing up bouldering, running and family stuff. Psyche higher for bouldering in Font, running trumped bouldering in Targasonne. The latter is maybe as sharp/rough as they say, most similar to Dartmoor granite. Some problems are less sharp than others, though despite very reasonable temps, the rock is more conditions-dependent than Font. Brilliant landings and great mtn biking, mtn running, plus quieter than the western Alps. I'd go back, but Font it aint!

Another summer in Font, with connies generally better than last year. Choosing the right problems and predicting connies is a bit of an art form, overall I think you're just as likely to get decent connies in the summer than in the winter (rain, condensing), Easter (high rain probability) or October (can be v hot). In the summer even if it rains it does tend to dry very quickly and yet again humidity was only a problem on a couple of days out of 22.

I had two evening sessions on one of the quickest drying, most south facing problem in the forest (Pancras Assis) on what can only be described as mint conditions. Both me and the missus climbed 7c i.e. near our top level. Overall it tends to take a few more sessions. Highlights were Pirouette Cacaouette, Kendo and the aforementioned Pancras Assis. In Targasonne I did a v good 7c called Bob's your uncle and a two-move board style 7c+, as well as a couple of 2800m summits! I spent 4 sessions on an 8a that was frustrating as I think I would have done it in cooler temps, it was not on rough rock, plus it also injured my finger.

Now planning to do some training/volume as well as sorting out cod finger.

[Bradders]

I had two evening sessions on one of the quickest drying, most south facing problem in the forest (Pancras Assis) on what can only be described as mint conditions. Both me and the missus climbed 7c i.e. near our top level. Overall it tends to take a few more sessions.

I can vouch for the immense quality of Pancras Assis; one of my all time favourite problems.

Interesting to hear good conditions available in the summer months. With my girlfriend being a teacher it would make it easier to get out there if we can go in summer holidays.

Anyway, STG - finish off Ebola at Anston and stick to training plan
MTG - week off in October and two weeks off before Christmas. Hoping to finish off a couple of grit projects, notably Jason's Roof at Crookrise, Tourniquet at Kentmere and Low Rider at Stanage
LTG - too many projects to list here.

Supposed to be a bit more of a chilled week this time but didn't quite work out like that.

M - made up for missed session on Sunday. Hangboard, mainly 5x 1r 10 second max hangs adding 16kg on the small B2K rungs, planks between reps
T - rest
W - rest
T - Depot, trying to keep up with mates who are all significantly stronger than me. It's amazing how much you try to up your game when climbing with other people, especially when you know they're better than you are. Climbed for about 3 hours and it broke me a bit.
F - broken ^^
S - first visit to the Bowderstone! Not my style of climbing. Basically an outdoor board. That's probably a good thing. Dropped the last move on Picnic Sarcastic on the flash, then did it 3rd go and the sit immediately after. Then spent ages trying Inaudible to no avail. Had wanted to try Impropa Opera but the top was wet and dripping so didn't even pull on. Must make sure to go back soon.
S - rest

[Duma]

Goals:
Fix shoulder
More 8A's
8b

Body Audit: Left shoulder feeling ok, restricting myself to rehab or 6 and below for now, think will start some ring stuff this week.
Sleep: Very very poor, but for the best reasons.
70kg.

M: TCA, shoulder rehab and went round the Oranges (6's).
T: shoulder rehab.
W: TCA, shoulder rehab and went round the Oranges again.
T,F,S,S: Partying, exceedingly negative from a health point of view, probably burnt a lot of calories though... (and brain cells)

Brilliant weekend, but pretty bored of not being able to push myself bouldering still. happy enough to have weight back to reasonable level.

[Will Hunt]

Stumbled across an impressive looking prow (Maverick Mick 7C+ at Lord's Seat) which I couldn't believe I wasn't aware of. Turns out it is in the guide but with no topo pic it's easy to overlook. Had a few, end of the day, goes and managed all but the first move (which is where the real difficultly lies). Surprised to not find any mention of this problem online, considering how good it is and how it literally faces McNab and is about 25 metres away from it.

I'm afraid you are mistaken. There aren't any photographs or HD Vimeo videos of the problem. It must therefore be shit.
Happy to help.

[yetix]

STG: resolve finger issues (seem to be improving)
MTG: Brad Pit, and la Fuente (stand)
LTG: 7c+

67kg

Mon - bouldering at the depot
Tue - Rest
Wed - Shoulders, conditioning and TRX
Thu - Rest
Fri - Session at rockover did most of the v8's and a few problems on the moonboard (fingers felt a little better but still a little tweeky)
Sat - Shoulders, conditioning and TRX
Sun - Rest

a few heavy nights out a the weekend took its toll, need to get more focused again.

[36chambers]

Stumbled across an impressive looking prow (Maverick Mick 7C+ at Lord's Seat) which I couldn't believe I wasn't aware of. Turns out it is in the guide but with no topo pic it's easy to overlook. Had a few, end of the day, goes and managed all but the first move (which is where the real difficultly lies). Surprised to not find any mention of this problem online, considering how good it is and how it literally faces McNab and is about 25 metres away from it.

I'm afraid you are mistaken. There aren't any photographs or HD Vimeo videos of the problem. It must therefore be shit.
Happy to help.

In there before it was cool n'all that. If only the author of that particular section of the book had done that particular boulder more justice Will

[36chambers]

made good progress on Bernie the Bolt 7B+, just one more tricky move to figure out high up.

I watched Mark Leach do BTB following my beta - I shouted out beta for the hands; his feet were fucking everywhere - mostly just waving about in the breeze
very impressive (before pads existed)

I blame this experience for my development of poor footwork

He had it lucky, figuring out the moves (and the holds) is the hard part. However, truth be told, I'd rather have the pads than the beta

[Bradders]

Stumbled across an impressive looking prow (Maverick Mick 7C+ at Lord's Seat) which I couldn't believe I wasn't aware of. Turns out it is in the guide but with no topo pic it's easy to overlook. Had a few, end of the day, goes and managed all but the first move (which is where the real difficultly lies). Surprised to not find any mention of this problem online, considering how good it is and how it literally faces McNab and is about 25 metres away from it.

I'm afraid you are mistaken. There aren't any photographs or HD Vimeo videos of the problem. It must therefore be shit.
Happy to help.

Oh but you're wrong there; there's always something...

https://www.instagram.com/p/u3ewI4DDEU/

[tomtom]

'kinnel I'm late. Forgive me. I shall bow at the alter of power club and say 'pink anasazi' three times...

M: RUBICON BABY! Yeah! Yeah! It was all wet apart from Kudos wall that was drying. Couple of guys there (hello) trying stuff.. Nothing to warm up on apart from Millers tale (with damp crimps) and pulling hard to the top I somehow strained something in my neck. I was there to try the press - and that new neck strain meant I couldnt really turn my head to look up to the crimp on the press. Anyway, I persevered - treating it a bit like a fingerboard/press session and managed a few reps of holding the start move for 5 or more seconds (that may sound puny to many - but is bloody hard for me - and was near impossible a few weeks ago..). Even did a couple of blind slaps to take all the weight on my LH.

Tu

We: TTjnr gets tonsilitis (symptomless apart from raging temperature) - trip to walk in clinic - prescribed AB's.

Th: Was due to drive to Norfolk for brief holiday - but had to postpone due to above illness.. Managed to get to the Depot in the morning - climbed pitifully. Woefully. Crap. Most disappointing. Baby was having none of the AB's so had to go back to the walk in clinic - wait for 90 min to see a different doctor who prescribed one he likes.

Fri: 7 hour drive to Norfolk with grizzly/poorly baby. Nearly turned back after the Woodhead pass - but the 'carry on until the next roundabout' worked and he dropped off.

Sa: Beach/holiday stuff

Su: As above - still knackered/stressed about poorly baby...

Betcha can't wait for next weeks instalment eh!

[36chambers]

Stumbled across an impressive looking prow (Maverick Mick 7C+ at Lord's Seat) which I couldn't believe I wasn't aware of. Turns out it is in the guide but with no topo pic it's easy to overlook. Had a few, end of the day, goes and managed all but the first move (which is where the real difficultly lies). Surprised to not find any mention of this problem online, considering how good it is and how it literally faces McNab and is about 25 metres away from it.

I'm afraid you are mistaken. There aren't any photographs or HD Vimeo videos of the problem. It must therefore be shit.
Happy to help.

Oh but you're wrong there; there's always something...

https://www.instagram.com/p/u3ewI4DDEU/

Good find. I didn't even notice the hold he's got with his LH, although if Will's stretched it's probably a no go for me.