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Me Eyes! Me Eyes! (Sean's Roof) (Read 2411 times)

Kingy

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Me Eyes! Me Eyes! (Sean's Roof)
August 25, 2017, 08:28:19 am
There isn't much info on this prob out there. I tried it last night and the only way I found to get into Paint it Black was to go fairly low with my feet on the starting rail. I ended up reaching round to the right to the sharp sidepull with my RH as for PiB then getting my right heel on and doing the last hard move of the lower part of PiB to get the good flat hold. I then finished up the last easier moves of PiB. Is this right or is the traverse into PiB at a higher level?

This is also the route of the problem 'Spungie' which starts up Byker Groove. Good moves!

Cheers in advance

abarro81

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#1 Re: Me Eyes! Me Eyes! (Sean's Roof)
August 25, 2017, 08:46:15 am
I did it similar to how it sounds you did - shuffled hands along a bit from the byker groove holds at the highish break level (maybe just rh out r, then lh into where rh was?), then rh out r to lowish slotty hold, lh over to crimp/pinch, rh bumps twice to go round the arete like you said. Feet on rail (or on higher foot on lh wall of groove) the whole way, then finish as for PIB

Kingy

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#2 Re: Me Eyes! Me Eyes! (Sean's Roof)
August 25, 2017, 12:33:47 pm
Great cheers Alex yes that's exactly how I found it climbed - via the lowish slotty hold for the RH. I crossed over with my lh leaving the Byker Groove holds then did a big move down and right to the slotty hold. Just need to send it now!

Andy B

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#3 Re: Me Eyes! Me Eyes! (Sean's Roof)
August 25, 2017, 08:58:51 pm
Hi Ted, I haven't climbed here for years, but I think I joined PIB a little higher, following the thin break line all the way into PIB at the big break. I haven't been there since Spuggie was done, but it sounds like it adds a hard move or two to the start by going up Byker Groove rather than following the feature on the easier ground to the left. Here's my description from on here at the time I did it, in case you haven't found it:

"Start on the low jugs of Push Me Pull You etc. and follow the faint rising break line up right past Byker Groove to join Paint it Black at the top of the arete, then finish (all the way  ;)) up this.
The line is fairly obvious if you look at the topo in the award winning guide to the area."

Hope that helps a bit.

Kingy

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#4 Re: Me Eyes! Me Eyes! (Sean's Roof)
August 26, 2017, 03:57:27 pm
Cheers for the info Andy, that is interesting cos the reason I posted was that the guidebook seems to suggest the problem follows the higher line you describe. The  thing is I couldn't see any viable line there in the brief look I had albeit it was nearly 10pm in the dark with one flashlight and a dying headtorch!

Seeing no obvious line following the description in the guide I decided to traverse right at a lower level after leaving Byker Groove ie. reach lower into PiB which seemed to work. This left me wondering about the higher line. I will check it out again in the light and see if there are any grips up there!

Andy B

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#5 Re: Me Eyes! Me Eyes! (Sean's Roof)
August 26, 2017, 04:44:46 pm
I'm sure it'll be more obvious in daylight. I only did it cos a mate pointed out the visual diagonal line and I had nowt better to do there at the time. I haven't seen a description in any guides yet, but I would have thought that they'll just be lifted straight from my original description cos I can't imagine many people have done it, with it being a filler problem at best.

 

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