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Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8 (Read 21689 times)

kingholmesy

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Superjam, E5 offwidth at Sennen should be on the list.

SA Chris

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Horizontal places - E8, Trevellan Pembroke

Pleasures shurely?

If you fancy a NW Scotland trip, someone has kindly listed for you. I've not done any of them, so can't vouch in any way

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=1158


Tommy

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Some harder ones:

Forever Laughing (7c+ I think? Or was it 8a?): Big roof crack in Blackers Hole that arguably me, Hickish and Long messed up by bolting. Would be an impressive flash/OS.

One Infinity (8A): Roof crack boulder, Bathford. Think Tom Newbury repeated and Bransby might have got close/did it??

Dina Crack (8b+/E9). Minger limestone roof crack in Dinas, S Wales.

Street Fighting Years (E7). Bouldery limestone roof crack in Blackers Hole

Swarzchild Radius roof (E8) Blackers Hole. The 7c+ sport route climbed into the cool roof crack above. Approx 8a+?

Others I can think of:

That offwidth that HoseyB did an obscure Slate quarry – very tasty E4. Really good! Just as interesting as Fear of Infection.

Cream (E4): Nice Tremadog crack. Found it a bit harder than Fingerlicker.

Chemin de Fer (E5): Dumbarton sandbag (apparently!)

Tommy

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Superjam, E5 offwidth at Sennen should be on the list.

Pete said this was nails. Took him quite a few goes and thought it harder than Rays by a fair bit.

andyh

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Horizontal places - E8, Trevellan Pembroke

Pleasures shurely?

Not to be confused with Horizontal Places that was misnamed as Horizontal Pleasures in the BMC Froggatt guide (and has the description wrong on UKC) - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10902

Biggest roof and most out there position on Froggatt. Not a crack but does have a half-body jam/wedge - go climb it ;)

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Further to that UKC NW Scotland list....

Quote
31      Whispering Crack   E3 5c ***   7   55m         Rubha Hunish
+ amazing, 5 grit HVS 5bs stacked on top of each other.
32      Staffin Classic (a.k.a. Kilt Classic)   E2 5b ***   12   40m         Staffin Slips
33      Hand Jive   E2 5c **   3   17m         Staffin Slips
34      Experimental Learning   E3 6a ***   -   45m         Staffin Slips
35      Licking Nettles   E3 5c ***   -   30m         Staffin Slips
+ all good cracks here, same with Kilt obviously
52      American Vampire   E4 6a ***   -   25m         Neist
~ good but the jamming bit is an easier bit
66      Pump up the Jam   f6C ***   2   8m         An Sguman
- an easy pure jamming romp of the upmost loveliness
69      Occum's Razor   E4 6a ***   6   25m         Sarclet
- hardly any jamming
70      Crypt Robber   E2 5c ***   4   35m         Sarclet
+ a big chimney thing, looks fun
71      Walking on Water   E2 5c ***   8   35m         Sarclet
- not much crucial jamming
74      Monkey Man   E3 5c ***   43   ?         Sheigra Sea Cliffs
- the only proper jams are the resting ones after all the hard climbing!
77      Tank Top   E6 6b ***   -   45m   • 2      Creag Shomhairle
+ if this is the line I'm thinking of, it looks amazing, not sure how pure jammy tho
81      Moronic Inferno   E2 5b **   65   ?         Reiff - Rubha...
- not very jammy
84      The Thistle   E4 6a **   6   ?         Reiff - An Stiuir
~ doesn't look very jammy
86      Elastic Collision   E3 5c ***   111   ?         Reiff - An Stiuir
87      Seal Song   E3 5c ***   72   ?         Reiff - An Stiuir
- cruxes of these two are not jamming
90      Strangeways   E4 6b **   4   ?         Reiff - Roinn...
- only jamming is on the HVS bit of the traverse in
91      Strongbow   E2 5c ***   32   ?         Reiff - Stone Pig...
~ more of a corner
92      Burning Desire   E5 6b ***   8   ?         Ardmair Crags
93      Unleash The Beast   E4 6a ***   23   25m         Ardmair Crags
94      Primitive Dance   E2 5c **   29   ?         Ardmair Crags
+ all excellent (I'm guessing about BD), there is far more here too
109      Kneel and Pray   E1 5b *   11   8m         Mungasdale
- mostly using jugs to avoid the crack

There might be more that I forgot...

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Horizontal places - E8, Trevellan Pembroke

Pleasures shurely?

Not to be confused with Horizontal Places that was misnamed as Horizontal Pleasures in the BMC Froggatt guide (and has the description wrong on UKC) - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10902

Biggest roof and most out there position on Froggatt. Not a crack but does have a half-body jam/wedge - go climb it ;)


Wow, can't believe I've never seen this one before. A definite addition to the list to do this autumn!

Fultonius

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Requiem? E8 6b

As great a route as it is, the crack is less than half the route, so is it really a crack climb?  What's the criteria here?

(just noticed this has been covered already...)

Limekilns: Iron Fist, yes, fingers to start, baggy fist crux.
Cambusbarron: Formica Crack, Hardest E3 in Central Belt... (also a bit shit, so not really a recommnedation.) hands/thin hands flared weirdness with kung-fu footwork...squuezes into E4.
Chemin de Fer E5, Dumby, mais, comme requiem les cruxes sont pas fissure
Cold Rage E4, Pass of Ballater. Odd one, it follows a wide chicken-wing offwidth, to thin hands/fingers but isn't totally a crack climb...but crack skills definitely help
Wide Country, E5, Cobbler
« Last Edit: July 26, 2017, 09:01:37 pm by Fultonius »

ashtond6

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Right, updated list.
Liebacking routes generally removed

Fingers
Fingerlicker, Tremadog E4
Coventry Street Millstone E4
London Wall, Millstone E5 12a
Bob Hope, Dovestones E4
Calamity Crack, Running Hill Pits E4
High Street, Lawrencefield E4
Wellington Crack, Ilkley E4
Milky Way, Ilkley E6
Reticent Mass Murder, Cratcliffe E5
Atomic Hot Rod, Cromlech E5
Behemoth, Central Buttress WCJ E5
True Grit Brimham E4
Supercrack, Lorry Park 7a/11d
Thunder Road, Lorry Park 6c+/11c
Cream Tremadog E4
Quark E4
Psychosis, Smugglers E4
Stratagem, Ravens Scar E5
Gable End E4
Mean Streak Stennis E5
Constable Overhang, Wilton E5
K.P. Wilton E6
The Mean Machine,Near Hearkaning Rock E7? 70 degrees, potentially not done
Yorick's Crack, Running Hill E5 tips

Hands
Harvest, Stanage E4
Zippatrocity, Stanage 7B+ 8a
Our Forte, Stanton E6
Stone Wings E5 7a+
Pit & The Pendulum, Nesscliffe E6 5.11d
Horizontal Places, Pembroke E8
Cobalt Dream E5
Iron Fist, Limekilns E5
Ultra Violence, Gun Buttress E4
Moughton Mauler E4
Genesis E5
Eavestone Crack E4
All Elements, Sally in the Woods 8A
Nebuliser Grinshill 5.12a?
The Clart Mountain Project 7b+ Crymlyn
The Wow Wow, Slate E4
Street Fighting Years Blackers Hole E7
30 seconds over winterland, Widdop E5
Relax and Swing, Swanage E5 (Seperate Reality style 6m roof hand crack)
String Theory, Rowsley Wood 7A roof
Savage Me Softly, Stanage 7A?

Offwidth
Gigglin' Brimham E6
Fear of Infection E4
Rays Roof E7
Ramshaw Crack Ramshaw E4
Melvin Bragg Ramshaw 7B
Goliath Burbage E5 - E6 if LH side in and no face holds. Hard E5 if RH in and no face holds. 
De Profundis Flaystones  - E5
Liquid Armbar E4
Sacrificial Crack E4
Superjam Sennen E5
Gin Palace 7c+


Quick point..... the cracks at Lorry Park - should they really be bolted? I get that they were not done previously & therefore dirty... however I think it would have been fine to have the bolted face routes either side, which would probably mean they are done more.

Supercrack, I would argue, is the best true crack climb in the Peak, on perfect solid rock. Certainly climbs more like a true crack than London Wall.

The 6b+/c to its right is one of two thin hands cracks I can think of (Gates of Mordor being the other)
Then the 6c+ groove a few right is perfect gear the whole way.

Not meaning to  :worms: but I thought they were all true crack climbs of true quality!

Danny

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Stu Bradbury might have a few good additions to this list:

https://www.facebook.com/stu.bradbury.3/posts/302796983584117

Teaboy

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Has Neb Direct been previously ruled out? I guess Nectar has too much corner?

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Reticent mass murderer, quark and super crack don’t really climb like cracks. Harvest is off width to an easy section of hand jams and e3 6b I think? Rmm reaches up to some crimps on shelves and rocks up to a slopey hold I think maybe a couple of jams near the top.

webbo

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I climbed RMM as a crack as did the two mates I was with, they even taped up for it. However that was in the last century.
What about Forecourt Crawler at Caley, I remember  it having some finger tip jams.

duncan

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Unleash The Beast, Ardmair. Soft E4 (hands). At the same crag, Burning Desire E5 looks ace but I've not tried it.

There is a very obvious gap, assuming Northern Ireland counts as the UK.

reeve

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Good listing Jonny!

De Profundis: although it has a short section of offwidth / chimney, the crux is hands and fists in the roof.

Harvest is in the right list for me (hands), I remember it being all hands and fists, not offwidth. What about Nectar just next door (I've not done it).

Marie would like to suggest Pit Pony at Rowtor. It's a horizontal offwidth roof with no face holds, with no description anywhere on the internet. About friend 5 size and increasing, but invert. Anyone heard anything about it? It's in the cave / passage immediately left of yogurt hypnotist. It looked traumatic. I didn't try it.



SA Chris

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Unleash The Beast, Ardmair. Soft E4 (hands). At the same crag, Burning Desire E5 looks ace but I've not tried it.


Both in the UKC list I hyperlinked to above.

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Hi Reeve  :wave: , yes it’s a great list and as you guys have reminded me my crack climbing skills are pretty limited to say the least! Anything wider than hands feels desperate to me which made me think harvest is offwidth for the hard bit (3ft of climbing). Reticent mass murderer i climbed as a boulder problem into good hands, I think left hand shelf right in the crack, can’t remember it being wide enough to hand jam low down? On another note I greased off fingerlicker in horrendously humid conditions last week, sad times....  :wall:

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Just read the rest of the post, I was out with Rocket man when he did Pit Pony. It looked to be an upside down grovel on hand / fist stacks with legs fed up into the crack. Eventually emerging through the hole. Specialist stuff. Nectar top pitch always felt desperate to me, never completed it. I'm sure it's reach dependent if you can keep your feet on the right ledge to reach the good jams?

r-man

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#68 Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
August 03, 2018, 10:50:11 pm
A new one for the list. Guards of Magog, E4 6a at Lee Quarry, Bacup. Impressive crack line hidden in a deep dark hole. Often damp, so summer is the time to do it. (Just try not to wander too near the opposite buttress, which has a habit of shedding rocks.)

https://instagram.com/p/Bl_pwPujql3/

From this point up it's sustained jamming, hands then fists.

SA Chris

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#69 Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
August 06, 2018, 09:57:43 am
so this summer is the time to do it.

Teaboy

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#70 Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
August 06, 2018, 11:14:38 am
so this summer is the time to do it.

Good point, I've been to Lee Quarry and by next summer this line could be the "The soaring arete that used to be half of....."

r-man

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#71 Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
August 06, 2018, 11:39:34 am
 :lol:

True.

Will Hunt

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#72 Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
August 22, 2018, 11:10:49 am
I had a go at Forecourt Crawler (Caley, E4 6b) last night. Considering it's an Allen and Bancroft route and an incredibly obvious line, the lack of attention it receives is very unusual. It only gets one star which seems odd. It's a thin crack in the back of a shallow, flared groove. Couple of easy hands to do a straightforward start onto a good foothold on the left and then things get tough. Really thin fingers (and I've got rat fingers anyway, God help anyone with normal fingers), bridged feet on either side of the groove allow a reach to better fingerlocks up above. You can then find a semi-restful position by basically back and footing the groove. This is where I got to on my third go, but lack of rest between goes meant I'd run out of puff.

Thereafter it attacks the top headwall which looks OKish if the things that look like holds from below are actually holds (when is this ever the case?), but the gear will be by/under your feet and the guide mentions a "last hard move" at the very top. I'd be interested for beta on this if anyone has done it. I suspect the top doesn't see much traffic with people sneaking off left or right after the end of the crack. Webbo must have done this?

Photo of the easy start here: https://ukbouldering.net/board/index.php/topic,6644.msg95583.html#msg95583

webbo

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#73 Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
August 22, 2018, 12:50:19 pm
I have done this but did the sneaking off left exit. My excuse for this inexcusable behaviour was that’s what my climbing partners  Dougie Hall and Kim  Carrigan did.
Isn’t there a good finger hold on the left arête of the groove where it starts to lean back.
Our ascents were a four man sieging session one drizzly morning. We started of with 3 RP’s as protecton but two of them got kicked out. 3 of us had got up it, then the top holds got a bit damper and Chris the Nose greased off the finger hold ripping out the RP on his way down to land flat on his back.
As he lay there groaning in agony, Dougie ever the gentleman asked if wanted him to go replace the RP.

Will Hunt

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#74 Re: Lists: UK Crack climbs by size E4-E8
August 22, 2018, 01:07:49 pm
I have done this but did the sneaking off left exit. My excuse for this inexcusable behaviour was that’s what my climbing partners  Dougie Hall and Kim  Carrigan did.
Isn’t there a good finger hold on the left arête of the groove where it starts to lean back.
Our ascents were a four man sieging session one drizzly morning. We started of with 3 RP’s as protecton but two of them got kicked out. 3 of us had got up it, then the top holds got a bit damper and Chris the Nose greased off the finger hold ripping out the RP on his way down to land flat on his back.
As he lay there groaning in agony, Dougie ever the gentleman asked if wanted him to go replace the RP.

Good tale, Steve. Interesting that the sneaking off exit seems so popular - maybe that explains one star, that it's so tempting to escape off. I'd assumed that if you were going to bail, you'd go right onto Pedestal Wall rather than the horror that is Compulsion Crack!

 

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