Quote from: duncan on July 17, 2017, 08:57:50 amTired very quickly though, it’s not ideal to have only one or two goes in you when it’s a three and a half hour drive. Any suggestions? Take longer rests? Get stronger? Get fitter? Get younger? Good work! How long did you rest before your second attempt? I've usually found that its volume/ARC/aerocap/banco resistancia which furnishes me with the most attempts per day.
Tired very quickly though, it’s not ideal to have only one or two goes in you when it’s a three and a half hour drive. Any suggestions? Take longer rests? Get stronger? Get fitter? Get younger?
Hey Duncan, are you using it a heel/toe on the crux or doing it the hard way?
Purchased a light / travel hangboard to take on the upcoming holiday to Tuscany..
For Reference: heel toe [10] with both undercuts [9+7/8] then RH all the way over to gaston the ear [13], match left on slopey hold next to it [12], bump RH to good edge [14], release heel toe and with LF in break slight pop for the jug [16].
Quote from: psborland on July 17, 2017, 03:53:13 pmPurchased a light / travel hangboard to take on the upcoming holiday to Tuscany.. Hey, I live in Siena!Should you be around, I can give you the tour of the boulders bars. Oh, and if you don't want to pack the fingerboard, I can offer some training chez moi!
Mon - Tue - Wed - Few hours at Torbyran with Toby D repeating 6c - 7a+, good fun but disappointed his titanium plate isn't showing a la Terminator, alas just a full head of hippy length hair. Evening at Long Quarry Point DWS, climbed 'Arapilies, Oh Arapilies 7a+' second go but couldn't get past crux throw on 'Once a Dogger' 7b+. Great fun. Thu - Fri - Sat - Long Quarry Point, Fell off the high crux of 'Blue Planet' 7b+ (Fantastic!) and then off the very last move of Once a Dogger, just got a bit too excited and let the barn door swing open. Sun - Berry Head, Rainbow bridge area gopping so went to the quarry and climbed 'MC Navigator' 7a+, a *** leaning prow. A seal popped up while we were climbing and scared the life out of me.
Quote from: Wood FT on July 16, 2017, 06:43:27 pmMon - Tue - Wed - Few hours at Torbyran with Toby D repeating 6c - 7a+, good fun but disappointed his titanium plate isn't showing a la Terminator, alas just a full head of hippy length hair. Evening at Long Quarry Point DWS, climbed 'Arapilies, Oh Arapilies 7a+' second go but couldn't get past crux throw on 'Once a Dogger' 7b+. Great fun. Thu - Fri - Sat - Long Quarry Point, Fell off the high crux of 'Blue Planet' 7b+ (Fantastic!) and then off the very last move of Once a Dogger, just got a bit too excited and let the barn door swing open. Sun - Berry Head, Rainbow bridge area gopping so went to the quarry and climbed 'MC Navigator' 7a+, a *** leaning prow. A seal popped up while we were climbing and scared the life out of me. I love how, every week, your 'training' log is essentially 'I went climbing on Wednesday and both days at the weekend'. Not a criticism, seems to be working alright - The 'Van Gnu' protocol.
Good to bump into Measles23 at Rubicon earlier (hello!) and Murph pitched up for his first time on rock in 10 months or so! Excellent.
Purchased a light / travel hangboard to take on the upcoming holiday to Tuscany.. Just got to sneak it in the case now https://www.flickr.com/photos/148948165@N03/shares/Ar6o68 I'm impressed with the quality of it .
Quote from: psborland on July 17, 2017, 03:53:13 pmPurchased a light / travel hangboard to take on the upcoming holiday to Tuscany.. Just got to sneak it in the case now https://www.flickr.com/photos/148948165@N03/shares/Ar6o68 I'm impressed with the quality of it .Did you buy it from somewhere in the UK or direct from the States?
Quote from: seankenny on July 18, 2017, 09:31:15 pmQuote from: psborland on July 17, 2017, 03:53:13 pmPurchased a light / travel hangboard to take on the upcoming holiday to Tuscany.. Just got to sneak it in the case now https://www.flickr.com/photos/148948165@N03/shares/Ar6o68 I'm impressed with the quality of it .Did you buy it from somewhere in the UK or direct from the States?From the UK, overhang climbing : https://www.overhangclimbing.com/ I'd never heard of them before but it arrived the next day so pretty good .