[monkoffunk]

A quick post to introduce the newest bouldering destination in Cheddar Gorge. Despite its diminutive size and appearance, the Meds Cave has rapidly become the gorges premier location for low to low middle problems, with many of the blocs destined to become modern classics.

The development in the crag began in 2016 with a solo cleansing effort from Matt Williams, before the majority of the plum lines were climbed with surprisingly little publicity by the now banished (due in part to extreme neophobist views) Mark Tomlinson aka Three Nine aka Neter Col.

Grades range from 7A to 7B+ with a handful of quality softer offerings.

A topo written by Mark can be found here, all applications accepted:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/192967827887008/

A word of warning, this topo typifies the misanthropic attitude that has made Mark a persona non grata in these parts. It has been variably described as essentially a bellwether for a broken society and "genius".

A bowdlerised version of the topo is available here for those of a weaker constitution:
https://www.theclimbingacademy.com/esoteric-bouldering/somerset/cheddar-gorge-meds-cave/

The UKC page is here: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=24170

A note on the names: problems in the MC have been named to honour the work of the many scientists who have developed life saving pharmaceuticals over the years, and those who administer them. Undoubtedly their work has saved untold countless lives through the decades. A scant few are named in reference to those who would subvert these substances for unintended purposes, particularly in the USA and the hood in Cheddar village.

A previously published video documents two of the problems, and a further problem with particularly low quality footage can be seen within the second video.



https://youtu.be/PlIOtpj1YnI#03m46s

 

[remus]

I've climbed here, it's surprisingly un-shit (especially if you like cheating your way through roofs). The (original) topo is also fucking ace. Good work all round.

[SA Chris]

I thought Meds was short for MEnDipS

[Hugh]

Nice one, looks entertaining. Definite thumbs up for the original topo too 

[ben]

Had a short session here last night due to lack of partner.  It's not bad as lime caves go although that's a LOT of *'s on the UKC page..

I thought Doxylamine  and Sertraline  were good. Zopiclone seemed pretty hard for 6c+ if it really joins Doxylamine  at its finishing jug which is what the UKC/topo descriptions say

[monkoffunk]

Lots of deserved stars I should say. Zopiclone does finish at the jug of doxy, few slaps to join it on the lip. Feels easy when have beta down. But not the first person to say that.

[monkoffunk]

To be clear, it doesn't join at the jug, it joins into finish. Just avoid the banned hold and can't go far wrong.

[ben]

Ah thanks MOfF, I was trying to stay independent of Doxy until the jug which was blatently wrong..