Yoga. It's all about the breathing. Pilates is just yoga with a few weights and less history.
Could you get loopy Lou to give you a private lesson and go through the breathing techniques?
Quote from: nai on June 14, 2017, 09:40:33 pmCould you get loopy Lou to give you a private lesson and go through the breathing techniques?I think I understand already. Pursed lipped breathing strikes me as something I want to try out first. Possibly similar to your horse noises?
Alright dudes, I was thinking about this after our conversation and wondered if that kind of blowing out through purses lips and puffed cheeks actually helps improve aerobic respiration under pressure. There's minimal evidence out there I can briefly find apart from some saying it only helps pathological lungs. But there is this interesting article on. Or text ways to breathe which describes the advantages of a diaphragmatic in breath and a pursed out breath through puffed cheeks as something that helps regulate physical and psychological pressure. This would make total sense to me in climbing and fits with watching some great climbers literally appear to puff their way up routes. Whether in fits in with the yoga 'pranayama' I've no idea. But as s technique to improve efficiency and reduce stress improve focus and keep it as aerobic as possible it's gotta be worth a shot? http://www.coreperformance.com/knowledge/wellness/master-your-breathing-to-perform-better.htmlStill looking for a Friday sport : trad peaks partner if anyone's keen? Moat?
Not sure JB is totally accurate with that description, you could say it's yoga with the lights on and no incense. Could you get loopy Lou to give you a private lesson and go through the breathing techniques?Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Still looking for a Friday sport : trad peaks partner if anyone's keen? Moat?
Does practising this kind of breathing make much demand on the core? On hard, sustained routes, my core is the element that tends to "go" - leading to difficulty raising my legs and keeping my feet on slippy smears at late RP cruxes. I rarely feel short of oxygen mid-route - so, wondering if engaging the core for breathing might have unexpected negative consequences. Or are the muscles involved in breathing and keeping feet on completely unrelated, so there is no conflict?
Quote from: Dan Cheetham on June 14, 2017, 10:24:39 pmStill looking for a Friday sport : trad peaks partner if anyone's keen? Moat?I might be keen. Well I am keen, but it'll depend on getting stuff done today.Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
Never heard this breathing technique mentioned on yoga classes.
Releasing your breath also gives you more reach.
Quote from: T_B on June 15, 2017, 10:21:14 amReleasing your breath also gives you more reach.As if you need any more reach! Could be a neat leveller this kabaddi bouldering, I like it.
Could be a whole new set of challenges out there. In the same way that in Kabaddi they have to constantly say "kabaddi" to prove you're not breathing in, we should do something similar for kabaddi bouldering. Maybe just chanting "waddage" during climbing.
The flipside of all this talk is I think the next level of local eliminates would be to do problems without breathing. Especially longer things like powerband, stuff like that. Could be a whole new set of challenges out there. In the same way that in Kabaddi they have to constantly say "kabaddi" to prove you're not breathing in, we should do something similar for kabaddi bouldering. Maybe just chanting "waddage" during climbing.
Shark's next big goal: eatswood Traverse Without Oxygen.
Typical yoga vid! - 2mins10seconds out of 2mins16seconds contains useful practical information that anybody can follow on how to develop breathing techniques. The last 6 seconds has philosophical jargon about evening out your consciousness that will mean nothing to most people.
Quote from: Will Hunt on June 15, 2017, 12:49:04 pmShark's next big goal: eatswood Traverse Without Oxygen.But that would imply he has a specific weakness at climbing WITH oxygen, which seems unlikely.
we were also taught how a deep breathing out exercise to empty our lungs. Which came in very handy when I got breathalysed.
I went to a workshop with Kino last year, it was quite hard work, nearly took my breath away...
Power braying. It's the secret in climbing no one dare mention...I will pay £100 to a nominated charity - if someone posts a video of Shark making loud donkey noises all the way up one of his Oak redpoints.
... Johnny used a circular breathing technique
Saying 'just' suggests its easy. Which it isn't. i just have to breathe faster. Which is
Put down that BMC sponsored doughnut you're about to eat and DO SOME WEIGHTSED HANGS
There's actually one glaringly obvious thing which Shark hasn't done yet which will lead to success on the Oak. He should arrive at Malham and warm up by holding a large edge at about waist height and bending his knees. He should then attempt the Oak and fall off either throwing to the horn or doing that top traverse.He should then lower off and go for a walk to the top of the cove. This is the crucial bit. He mustn't be carried, he must walk and he must walk right to the top. Once there he can sleep if he chooses.On returning back to the catwalk he should return to the waist level edge and hold it while bending his knees for 5 minutes.He will then climb the Oak.
Quote from: Will Hunt on June 20, 2017, 02:34:47 pmThere's actually one glaringly obvious thing which Shark hasn't done yet which will lead to success on the Oak. He should arrive at Malham and warm up by holding a large edge at about waist height and bending his knees. He should then attempt the Oak and fall off either throwing to the horn or doing that top traverse.He should then lower off and go for a walk to the top of the cove. This is the crucial bit. He mustn't be carried, he must walk and he must walk right to the top. Once there he can sleep if he chooses.On returning back to the catwalk he should return to the waist level edge and hold it while bending his knees for 5 minutes.He will then climb the Oak.Oh dear. I have done all this. My warm pre-redpoint warm up includes doing various pulls on low undercuts, having a go then doing the walk. Does this mean there is no hope?
No, you could replicate, and perhaps improve on, what you did in autumn 2015?