[tomtom]

Hola!

A week of watching the forecast and hoping to get out...

M: CragX on the way over to 'ull. It was raining quite heavily - and with some drying the crag was 'serviceable' but far from good.. Had to dry the holds every few min as they were condensing out... no cigars..



T: Work

W: Mixed forecast - had been raining - and the peak looked wet.. so decided to head to Ousels Nest... I've been once before and didnt really get on with it - it all seems hard gently overhanging wall climbing. Its more like lime than grit in many ways, crimps edges and strong pulls. Which is why I'm not very good at it.. Had fun on a 7A called Zendik - that had a vital but damp crimp... which improved after cleaning/use but not enough by the time I tired and left..

Th: Lovely weather... but I'd been out the day before. Managed to do some Yoga at home for the first time in ages.

Fr: Back to Ousels Nest. Got Zendik 3rd go (yeeha!), then spent ages working the SS to Alison's route (7A) after managing the French start 6B, and Stand (6C+) but it knackered me so I left. Had a good play on meeting palms (I think?) a 7C arete for the normally sized, and probably less for me... sounds perfect...

Sa: MrsTT had friends over - social stuff - babys - cafe's walks etc...

Su: I went back to CragX. MUCH better conditions on Zippys. I warmed up - did overlapping halves. Sweet. Had a rest. Got on the problem, moving well, strong, direct, fast, smooth... got through the 'crux' and went to throw left and realised I'd left the ladder up (from brushing the holds) and it was blocking my way!! No way through, had to stop. How stupid of me!! This really threw me - I felt so so good on that go, that on the next three I powered out, slipped off, phsyched myself off it. After a stiff talking to, 20 min rest and a bit of a walk - I just got on it with none of the usual faff routine and did it - just.

[the_dom]

Again, a heavy but not the best week.

Mon: Metcon and a short hike - 300 KB swings

Tues: AM hangboard - max hangs at 39kgs, 300 KB swings; PM decent bouldering session

Wed: Metcon and a slightly longer hike than monday (incl. 350 KB swings)

Thurs: AM hangboard - max hangs at 39kgs, 300 KB swings; PM very tired volume bouldering

Fri: Kettlebells - 400 swings, including 100 consecutive one arm swings

Sat: Hangboard - max hangs on the small BM2K rung + 41kgs (close to additional 50% of current bodyweight - guess this is a 1. good result and 2. terrible reflection of my current weight)

Sun: Hangboard (sloper repeaters based on the BM Sloper-centric workout) interspersed with 400 kettlebell swings

Feeling quite battered..

[csl]

STG - may

7B
5 days outside - 3/5
Do something good in Font

MTG - september

7C
cassin on piz badile/comici on cima grande

LTG - this time next year

not sure

Monday

Tore a couple of flappers last Sunday so rested

Tuesday

Rest

Wednesday

Climbed with Coops. Wasn't climbing well, had to tape flappers as new skin still painful. Made up some problems on the board, did some easy problems from the new set.

Thursday

rest

Friday

Slightly better, still regrowing skin. Trying harder problems from the new set, close on a couple of whites, all moves on a Green on the main o.

Saturday

rest

Sunday

rest

[nai]

M - massage, no knots found in actual back muscles but everything in the buttocks totally locked up. Best Educated guess diagnosis a "massive glute spasm". Left a bit freer

T - heat, spikey ball, stretch, repeat.

W same again

Th and again

F -  3.5 x 10 mins traversing at mini works, generally ok but definitely felt it a few times on smaller footholds.

S - took nipper to Foundry, tried autobelays but didn't feel comfortable. Gingerly did some L1s and hung off the BM and campus rungs while trying to poke my glutes to test how engaged they were and might this activity be safe.  Nipper crushed, did some L1s, this could be a turning point, my first schooling by one of my kids.

S - More spikey ball and stretching, walked a few miles.
Read a forum subject re tight glutes. Mostly from lifters who, having tried massage and stretches, many seemed to fix themselves by resuming lifting (generally DL & squat) at sub-maximal levels.
Tried a 1/2 BW DL but didn't even get it off the ground. Did a few sets of squats with no weight on the bar which felt ok, if all's well in the morning one to include in the rehab routine.

Bored now

[T_B]

M - Lunch run
T - Lunch Lattice Test. 128, 96 (75%), 73, 45, 42, 38, 23.
W - Lunch run
T - PM Trad. Drove to Higgar but even after a loop round Hathersage accepted the rain was sat on Higgar/Burbage. Stoney. Windy Ledge. Flat cap time. Ed led Scoop Wall, I had a look at the start of Kellog, but even with a mat I got up there and wasn't confident I was in the right place and therefore not prepared to push on without any gear. Reversed and moved over to Circe. Got up to the bolt and tried the moves right - all a bit dusty, reversed back to the deck.. next go did the long reach to the crimp/pocket then really had to heave to get established at the jug. Once on the jug I thanked my lunchtime Autobelay sessions, hung out for a bit then quested on across the fluttery undercuts. The top of the crag was wet and it took a good 20 minutes for me to bushwhack through the brambles to a tree that wasn't rotten. Abbed off in the dark. Psyched. 10 years since I last did Circe and 5 years since I last led an E5!
F - Ran to work. Lunch Wave pulling in the bomb bay. Bit tired.
S - AM Tor. Only had a couple of hours so thought I'd better pull on my fingers. Messed about around the cave trying Sympathy in Choice.
S - walked up Win Hill with my two boys  p.m. run

Lattice test after two days rest and up from previous PB in February of 112 I think?
Therabanding is gradually sorting back/shoulder, should be firing again in a few weeks... but I'm
... psyched for more trad (if I can find partners...)
Good running consistency this past month, racing next week.

[shark]

Nice one on Zippy's TT

11.2-4

M. Malham with Paul, Steve and  Jerome. Terrible slippery conditions. Steve couldn't do Raindogs. Cant remember what I warmed up on. Two goes on Oak. Fighting to stay on. Took a chunk out of my thumb.

T.

W.

T.

F. Malham with Paul, Steve, Keith and Zippy. OKish conditions. Warmed up on Yosemite Wall and F&EE. Superglued thumb up. Surprising how much you use it. Opened wound up. Second go felt weak useless and sacked it off. Back sore. Aided to strip it. Steve got high on his project.

S.

S.

Generally feeling worn out, sleepy and deflated. Taking 7 days off to recharge and mend thumb. Probably go back to Malham next Friday as team are going up but will avoid the Oak. Going to focus on losing weight then keeping it lost. Will start planning how I'm going to build towards the Autumn. Did alright this season but not fantastic especially considering I had prepped well.   

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - rest.
Tue - rest.
Wed - muscle snatch PB 51 kg x 1. Then 46 kg x 3 x 3. Cleans 46 kg x 10 x 3. Bag. Hot and brutal.
Thu - climbing class.
Fri - rest.
Sat - AM deadlifts 108 kg 5 x 5 1' rests. Quite brutal. PM cleans 46 kg 10 x 5.
Sun - rest.

Far too many committments and too much food and alcohol.

[Luke Owens]

M: Rest

T: Max hangs: Half crimp - 20mm edge
R1: 10s (0kg)
R2: 9s (+2.5kg)
R3: 9s (+2.5kg)
R4: 10s (0kg)
R5: 10s (0kg)

W: Lunch - 8 mins LI-Aerocap x 2

T: Dinbren - First sesh there of the year, arrived late. Warmed up on the 6b and had 2 goes working the lower moves on El Rincon (8a). I've never been on an 8a so this was interesting, hard but do-able for sure. Did the 2nd crux move (rockover?). Need to figure out the best way of doing long move between the 1st and 2nd bolt next time.

F: Lunch - 3 x 5 reps of IYT's (4kg), lots of shoulder rotation stuff and 5 x 5secs of L-hangs.

Eve - Llanddulas - 6a warm up, then did Pump Action (7a) first redpoint, fitness is improving slightly. Then did a lap on a long pumpy 6b.

S: 10 mins LI-Aerocap x 2

Max hangs: Half crimp - 20mm edge (unweighted)
3 mins rest between reps.
R1: 10s, R2: 10s, R3: 10s
5 min rest.
R4: 9s, R5: 10s, R6: 10s

S: I would say rest, but sanding walls ready for painting felt nails.

[Duma]

Goals:
8A (Hunters Roof? Godzilla?)and 8b by June. 8b is going to have to wait till after Rocklands now I think.
In shape for SA in summer.

Body Audit: Ok as it ever gets.
Sleep: Decent.
70kg.

M: Nothing. (~7hrs, 1dk)
T: TCA, finally managed to finish the last orange (in the roof), was feeling pretty heavy and weak on it compared to last week so happy to pull a decent go together, feels like decent training for Godzilla too. Not much else that session (7hrs, 1 dk)
W: Nothing, particularly shit day at work meant eve under a duvet (~7hrs, 1dk)
T: TCA, bit of a rubbish session, new middle set (6A-6C) up, so did a few of those, but not much energy or psyche so sacked it fairly soon. (~7.5hrs, 0dk)
F: Nothing daughter for weekend. (~8hrs, 0dk)
S: Nothing. Weird migrainy vision in eve, but no headache to speak of - bed early. (~9hrs, 2dk)
S: Nothing. (~7hrs, 2dk)

Bit of a nothing week, downer at work on Weds and busy at the weekend with family stuff so very little training. hopefully get back to Biblins Tues or Weds eve, and out at the BH

[petejh]

STG: Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), Mega Crag X (NI),  First 8b+ (Mecca), spring
MTG: Continue bolting/sending new routes at Mega Crag X (spring-summer). Explore more of Ireland. Projs on G.Orme, Gideon and L.Ormes (late summer after birds have left)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018


M. Core/mobility sesh.
T.
W. Pilbox wall. Lacklustre sesh on Millenium Drive, can't even do the Whisky Bitch finish at the moment (which I somehow flashed years ago)..
T. Idwal Slabs. Led Demetrius, what a pitch.. Balls'd up my approach to this thin steep-slab E3 in three crucial ways - 1. decided to take my crap baggy shoes instead of my whites - my calfs were exploding after approx 3 metres; 2. new partner and nonchalantly went with his rack without thinking it through - missed out on 3 pieces of gear turning an averagely-protected E3 into a bold E4, committing to the top crux above a shit rp that wouldn't have held a strong gust (after not having the piece for a great cam placement just below) and facing falling 2/3rds the length of the route; 3. no slab fitness -  my sport-climber's calfs very nearly caused failure. Just about managed it but thought I was taking the flyer. Turned out to be a classic trad experience - i.e. type 2 (retrospect) fun. Finished up Piton Route and Continuation Crack, both good.
F. Tor. Mecca sesh 5. OK. Worked out my start sequence and played with catching ear with lefthand instead of right. Can do either way but lefthand way cuts right finger on razor more.
S.
S. Tor. Mecca sesh 6. Agghh. Good first go up - linked ground to going into 2nd undercut, can link higher for sure. Busy day with 4 bods on Mecca or extensions. Had along lunch during which I fought with a zip on my jacket and felt my middle finger DIP joint twist and tweak a little.. Second go up - bailed straight away, DIP joint defo tweaky and not worth doing any worse damage. A long way to drive for one tie in on the route. Zips.. fuck sake!

Slow progress and daft finger joint tweaks. Progress nonetheless. DIP a bit sore and achey today, hope it mend itself quickly.

[36chambers]

M:
T: Indoors. One arm hangs benchmarking (RH only as dodgy left shoulder). Easily managed 10+ seconds on BM2K low middle slot and managed ~4.1 on the smallest hold. My arbitrary 2017 aims are 10 and 5 seconds, respectively, so happy with the progress. I certainly feel much stronger in general.   
W:
T: Almscliff. Pottering around. Possibly the most beautiful sunset I have ever seen, double rainbow included.
F:
S: Almscliff. Pottering around.
S: Brimham. Robbed trying To You Too, but I was climbing topless so the connies weren't brilliant.

It's certainly that time of year were I'm enjoying pottering around more than anything else. I made a summer training plan a few months ago but there's no way I'm going indoors when it's dry outside. Tempted to start taking my fingerboard to the cliff.

[Sasquatch]

M-Soccer 1.5 hrs Felt good to run around and play for a bit.  Haven't played in almost 2 years.
T-FB-MAW 260lbs. 2hr mtn bike
W-Boulder at wall - quite a few up to v8
T-
F-Boulder at Wall - quite a few up to v9, ok session
S-Mtn bike 1.5hrs
S-Boulder at Wall - quite a few up to v10

The weather went to shit and I spent the bulk of the spare time this week working on a bathroom remodel, which i just finished   The wall sessions were fun as I haven't been in bouldering for some time so everything was newish.  Hoping for better weather in the next couple weeks to get out and put up some new goodness. 

[TobyD]

Opened wound up. Second go felt weak useless and sacked it off. Back sore. Aided to strip it. Steve got high on his project.

Generally feeling worn out, sleepy and deflated.

This isn't positive self talk week is it Simon? Cmon I was looking for motivation to start training again...

[shark]

Opened wound up. Second go felt weak useless and sacked it off. Back sore. Aided to strip it. Steve got high on his project.

Generally feeling worn out, sleepy and deflated.

This isn't positive self talk week is it Simon? Cmon I was looking for motivation to start training again...

Sorry. Haven't even got the energy for a wisearse comeback let alone a motivational pick-me-up. Dieting probably not helping. Thumbs healed well though.
 

[duncan]

STG: Don’t break. Bounce and twist. Deposit a 1200 move (600m) session in the Banco Resistencia Continental in 2 weeks time.
MTG: Don’t break. Work a 7b. Classic sea-cliff E5 this August.
LTG: 7b RP. Others tbc.
 
M - Shoulder exercises
T - Biscuit Factory. Probably the worst indoor climbing experience in the last 5 years. So busy it was difficult to be safe. I have a high tolerance for heat and humidity but conditions - and the hordes of half-naked bodies - made it feel like Heaven (the club, not the mythical place). Some yellow V2/3s were flashed/worked/failed on. Retired to the pub...
W - Shoulder exercises, 10km jog/walk.
T - Westway. All bouldering down. Autobelays still out of use. Pootled around the base of routes for ~30 mins. on. Low energy. Tweaky shoulder. 
F - Ill. Tweaky shoulder.
S - Ill. Shoulder exercises
S - Ill.
 
Not the best of training weeks. Need to sort out what i do indoors. Westway system room and (steep, for me) circuit room still open. Might be better to give up the volume plan and get bouldering instead.
 
In other news I’ve bought a shiny clip-stick, bring on those high first bolts.   

Plan: Two indoor sessions tbc. Touch rock at least once this weekend.
 

[petekitso]

Re the biscuit, I had a very similar experience there on Monday night. I feel like a curmudgeon moaning about busy walls but between 6.30 and 8.30 it is a write off unless you are in a group working the same problem/area (which, being a curmudgeon, I am not).

When I found myself in a queue of six people to get on the circuit board I sulked off home . . .

[TobyD]

In other news I’ve bought a shiny clip-stick, bring on those high first bolts.

[csl]

Re the biscuit, I had a very similar experience there on Monday night. I feel like a curmudgeon moaning about busy walls but between 6.30 and 8.30 it is a write off unless you are in a group working the same problem/area (which, being a curmudgeon, I am not).

When I found myself in a queue of six people to get on the circuit board I sulked off home . . .

I think the only way to climb at the Arch walls is early morning, or in the day if you don't work 9-5. As Duncan says, it actually gets pretty dangerous in the evenings. The 30º board at Arch B1 is a good option if you have to go in the evenings, a good angle for getting better outdoors and not too hard. It's always empty, you just have to politely ask the people doing yoga under it to move.

I know Vauxwall even ends up 'one out one in' on the weekday evenings...

[Mike Highbury]

In other news I’ve bought a shiny clip-stick, bring on those high first bolts.

That's me redundant.

[joel182]

Re the biscuit, I had a very similar experience there on Monday night. I feel like a curmudgeon moaning about busy walls but between 6.30 and 8.30 it is a write off unless you are in a group working the same problem/area (which, being a curmudgeon, I am not).

When I found myself in a queue of six people to get on the circuit board I sulked off home . . .

I think the only way to climb at the Arch walls is early morning, or in the day if you don't work 9-5. As Duncan says, it actually gets pretty dangerous in the evenings. The 30º board at Arch B1 is a good option if you have to go in the evenings, a good angle for getting better outdoors and not too hard. It's always empty, you just have to politely ask the people doing yoga under it to move.

I know Vauxwall even ends up 'one out one in' on the weekday evenings...

In my experience lately Mile End and Stronghold are both good for a weekday evening session - lot quieter than VauxWall/Arch seem to be

[duncan]

Thanks for the advice on evening bouldering in London. I know I should stay well away at peak times but this was a part-social occasion and my date is time-very-constrained and from Tulse Hill. I just didn't realise it was going to be that bad. One-in-one-out would have been sensible. 

... you just have to politely ask the people doing yoga under it to move.

Isn't there a machine-gun emoji for this?

[seankenny]

I have a high tolerance for heat and humidity but conditions - and the hordes of half-naked bodies - made it feel like Heaven (the club, not the mythical place).

I hear Rio's in Kensal Rise has a fingerboard these days.

[duncan]

I have a high tolerance for heat and humidity but conditions - and the hordes of half-naked bodies - made it feel like Heaven (the club, not the mythical place).

I hear Rio's in Kensal Rise has a fingerboard these days.

Feigning ignorance here. You know it's in Kentish Town.

[seankenny]

I have a high tolerance for heat and humidity but conditions - and the hordes of half-naked bodies - made it feel like Heaven (the club, not the mythical place).

I hear Rio's in Kensal Rise has a fingerboard these days.

Feigning ignorance here. You know it's in Kentish Town.

Practically on your way home.

[Coops_13]

Forgive the late entry this week...

STG: Crush Font
MTG: 7C
LTG: 8A

M: Arch, board. Feeling heavy and weak after Edinburgh trip
T:
W: Arch, climbed with csl. He was crushing. Managed to catch up a bit on the board later on, hope he doesn't burn me off in Font!
T: Arch, volume session to cater for my recent Edinburgh and future Berlin non-climbing trips...
F:
S: Went to Portland for a day trip, inspired by monkoffunk . After a play on Lightning Strike 7A+, did it second go:

Did Teleforce 7A while my mates were trying Relativity. Went for a play on Desclassified 7A++, could only do the first move once after a lot of goes, sacked it in. Went over and flashed Neil Armstrong 7A. Had a play on a couple of other things but nothing else went.
S: Played squash, beat housemate. Flew to Berlin in evening for training