[James Malloch]

I'm undecided at the moment (need to get back to them on it). Work has been manic recently so I've put off training so starting one straight away wouldn't have been sensible. From 1 June my work slows down so I'm going to up my training for some autumn trips / late Malham season.

I guess if I go through them there should be support in the understanding side of things also.

Recently I've been focusing on strength work a bit more (board climbing and some campusing which has led to noticeable gains. I built a structure based on Barrows' PDF which was going well but I wondered if I might get more from something built specific for my aims / lattice results.

[user deactivated]

No specific goals at the moment but get stronger and fitter. Trying a 2:1 sport - trad days to get some variety in there!

Tue- endurance laps and some core exercises on the depot circuit board

Sat- cheedale- went to the upper tier and tried vision of loveliness. 1st go- did the moves. 2nd go linked a few sections / failed Redpoint. 4th go- ouch!

This thing feels pretty tough for 7c+, no moves as hard as Orange sunshine but sustained crimping to a font 7a pull after the break. Anyone had an easy time on it or got vital beta I'd be keen to know others opinions?

Cheers

[nai]

Everyone I know who's done/tried it says it's tough for 7c+ or that it's 8a.  Keen to get on it, everyone also raves about how good it is.

[36chambers]

Anyway:
Nice one Luke on King of Drunks and 36Chambers on The Fonze
Get well soon Nai

cheers

[user deactivated]

Everyone I know who's done/tried it says it's tough for 7c+ or that it's 8a.  Keen to get on it, everyone also raves about how good it is.

Cheers Ian, yeah there's some good moves on it and the glue doesn't bother me - tricky right to the last move that's for sure. Harder / more sustained than other 7C+'s appart from maybe Minos which is tough also.

[T_B]

It was originally given 8a.

Downgraded to 7c+ after Jon Barton did it IIRC*.

*I may have made that up, but it was something like that.

[nai]

Minos Mehnos. Hard and not that good. Crux crimp broke last year too so even harder and nastier than it was.
How does it compare to abberation?

Edit: must be harder, abbo hasn't got anything approaching a 7A section on it.

[user deactivated]

When I did Minos I thought it was 7B to start then French 7c, I've not done aberration but have done the crux which is significantly easier than Minos and Vision of loveliness unless I'm missing something. So Minos and Vision are both harder than call of nature for example. Nice story about the downgrade there Tom. 

[nai]

Grades Grades Fucking Grades.

[Bonjoy]

I did Vision when it was given 8a. I did think it was overgraded at the time, but it may have changed since, this is Peak limestone after all. It certainly felt easier than bloody Tier Drop Explodes. I do remember thinking VoL was a good route despite all the holds bar about one being glued or made of glue.

[user deactivated]

There's a few bits of glue with no holds attached Jon particularly around the crux, so it maybe that. 7c+ on peak routes is the 7B+ of peak bouldering. Non of it is 8a but it's actually harder than some of the 8a's.

[nai]

7c+ on peak routes is the 7B+ of peak bouldering. Non of it is 8a but it's actually harder than some of the 8a's.

I keep thinking I understand then realise
I don't. Could you explain?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

[user deactivated]

7c+ on peak routes is the 7B+ of peak bouldering. Non of it is 8a but it's actually harder than some of the 8a's.

I keep thinking I understand then realise
I don't. Could you explain?

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

Haha that's my point, while Vision isn't 8a it may be harder than some 8a's in the same way west side story is 7B+

[shark]

It was originally given 8a.

Downgraded to 7c+ after Jon Barton did it IIRC*.

*I may have made that up, but it was something like that.

I think it was Rob Barker flashing it after Ru? and Jon Barton were moaning how hard it was. Suitably motivated they both redpointed it straight after. Or something like that...

[webbo]

Mon. Bike intervals 17 efforts.
Tue. Nothing
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Board just did a lot of easier stuff, having not climbed for 3 weeks.
Fri. Bike 75.05 miles 4 hrs 27 mins.
Sat. Board struggling did some repeaters to finish. Twinged  my back when I fell off. Looking at houses in the afternoon.
Sun. Bike 18.01 miles 1 hr 3 mins

[Doylo]

It was originally given 8a.

Downgraded to 7c+ after Jon Barton did it IIRC*.

*I may have made that up, but it was something like that.

I think it was Rob Barker flashing it after Ru? and Jon Barton were moaning how hard it was. Suitably motivated they both redpointed it straight after. Or something like that...

I did it just before it got downgraded. Felt similar to other 8as.