Training for routes at home (Read 663 times)

Luke Owens

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Training for routes at home
May 09, 2017, 09:23:30 am
Probably been asked before...

I don't have enough time for outdoor routes at the moment. My circumstances seem to line up well with bouldering, going out 6:30pm onwards a couple of times in the week and getting out early morning on the weekend or another late session, so I get about 3-4hrs. This is good though because strength is obviously my weakness.

I'll have time to be route climbing again properly in a few months. I'm doing plenty of bouldering and enjoying it but can't help but feel all but strength training is being ignored. I don't want to turn up at the Diamond in August and fall off at the first bolt...

I could just sack off bouldering in the evenings and go to the wall to train but I'd rather stick to the bouldering/strength training outside and supplement it with some training for routes at home. Although the wall isn't far away, it's just nice to be around at home on the evenings I'm not out and could easily fit in some time training.

I did think of trying to get out on routes 6:30pm onwards but I'm guessing this would be a bit rushed and maybe a waste of time? Probably only get a couple of goes on something.

Any suggestions on stuff I could do (fingerboard foot-on hangs, foot-on campus) or build at home to help out?

I've got room at the bottom of the garden for a board but I can't really fork out the money to build one in one go. Maybe a small freestanding campus board with big rungs and foot holds?

Any ideas appreciated.



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#1 Re: Training for routes at home
May 09, 2017, 09:58:13 pm
Is there nothing traversey where you boulder? Most places I boulder there is something to traverse and get pumped on. Even if it's short jump off and do it again. Works for me most of the time. Boulder then do some circuits at the end of a sesh. Or foot on campus intervals but they can be abit grim, I'd rather be on real rock.


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#2 Re: Training for routes at home
May 09, 2017, 10:51:32 pm
You can do LI AeroCap, HI AeroCap and AeroPow laddering with a 2ft wide campus board, medium rungs, a few jugs and a high boredom threshold. Should be able to knock one up fairly cheaply, I built mine from offcuts from a timber merchant and use it loads, in fact you've got me thinking about a rebuild now.

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#3 Re: Training for routes at home
May 10, 2017, 01:09:27 pm
I'd say build a campus board with foot-on options and multiple rung sizes..