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8c+ friction slab in Pedriza (Read 4335 times)

jwi

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8c+ friction slab in Pedriza
April 25, 2017, 09:27:00 am
Ignacio Mulero has put up “Territorio Comanche”, 8c+, in Pedriza.


mrjonathanr

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#1 Re: 8c+ friction slab in Pedriza
April 25, 2017, 09:55:39 am
Is it true that Nibs is after the second ascent?

cjsheps

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#2 Re: 8c+ friction slab in Pedriza
April 25, 2017, 10:40:37 am
He messaged me a while ago, expressing interest in coming and trying The Meltdown. Should be interesting!

Nibile

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#3 Re: 8c+ friction slab in Pedriza
April 25, 2017, 10:58:14 am
Is it true that Nibs is after the second ascent?
It is indeed true.
After climbing my board project and doing my PB on cleans I think I should put these feats to good use.
 ;D

Luke Owens

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#4 Re: 8c+ friction slab in Pedriza
April 25, 2017, 11:03:45 am
Is it true that Nibs is after the second ascent?
It is indeed true.
After climbing my board project and doing my PB on cleans I think I should put these feats feet to good use.
 ;D

 ;)

Will Hunt

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#5 Re: 8c+ friction slab in Pedriza
April 25, 2017, 12:12:47 pm
Is that the hardest slab in the world?
Witchcraft. Absolute witchcraft.
 :bow:

jwi

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#6 Re: 8c+ friction slab in Pedriza
April 25, 2017, 12:24:58 pm
He messaged me a while ago, expressing interest in coming and trying The Meltdown. Should be interesting!
Who? Nibs? [emoji2]

Luke Owens

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#7 Re: 8c+ friction slab in Pedriza
April 25, 2017, 03:38:27 pm
Is that the hardest slab in the world?
Witchcraft. Absolute witchcraft.
 :bow:

The Meltdown is 9a

Nibile

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#8 Re: 8c+ friction slab in Pedriza
April 25, 2017, 04:18:05 pm
Bunch of mofos.
All I need to climb 8c+ slabs is just another 25 years of training.

Fiend

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#9 Re: 8c+ friction slab in Pedriza
April 25, 2017, 04:34:08 pm
Awesome. Hope it turns up on video. It's gonna be harder than Smoked Salmon that's for sure. Polar opposite style to The Meltdown. Caff's already been to Pedriza and described the F6b+ warm-up as "more like E4 6b", before onsighting 8a(+?). He needs to get involved, to beat Nibble at least ;)

Will Hunt

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#10 Re: 8c+ friction slab in Pedriza
April 25, 2017, 04:46:48 pm
Awesome. Hope it turns up on video. It's gonna be harder than Smoked Salmon that's for sure. Polar opposite style to The Meltdown. Caff's already been to Pedriza and described the F6b+ warm-up as "more like E4 6b", before onsighting 8a(+?). He needs to get involved, to beat Nibble at least ;)

I climbed in Pedriza for a day.
We got to Madrid airport and hired the car, telling them we'd put about 100 miles on the clock.
We drove to Pedriza and devoured a whole roast chicken which was weedled from a late night bar that was open.
We went to sleep and woke up in the morning in a tent with frost on the inside.
We walked into the hut and explained to the guardian that we were there to climb for the week. He looked at us as if we had lost our minds. We asked him what routes we should do and he described them to us. Each description contained the words "eeehhhh, eet ees a little, jow you say?, scary".
We walked in, past iced up slabs, to the first crag on our hit list, thinking to warm up to the Pedriza way on some nice bolted slabs. I fancy myself as being decent on a slab. On the first 6a I spent about 10 minutes stood under the crux, the bolt not quite as close as I would like, trying to work out what the hell to do. It did go, but it was not 6a.
It was Baltic in the shade so we hugged the sunnier faces. My partner, who doesn't do much climbing really, was not having fun. We did some nice routes, including one immaculate thing up a long granite vein. I think I did a 30m pitch without looking at my hands once.

Packed up the shit and drove straight to El Chorro and checked into the Olive Branch. I wonder what the hire car company thought we'd done to get that mileage after we told them we were going to La Pedriza?

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#11 Re: 8c+ friction slab in Pedriza
April 25, 2017, 06:28:09 pm
ROFL! Pedriza 6a can be 6a, either English 6a or sustained Font 6A.

I need to go back for a 3rd trip.

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#12 Re: 8c+ friction slab in Pedriza
April 26, 2017, 12:04:56 pm

The Meltdown is 9a

Not a friction slab tho' ?

 

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