I have a works membership so was planning to do laps on the circuit board. Do i just warm up then set off until i cant hold on anymore? Then rinse and repeat?
Lots of easy volume for generally hanging in there on easier ground.
Shorter, harder reps with intervals for power-stamina (as I learned it) eg 4x4s
.Guess it goes without saying that you can take some pretty nasty falls swinging into the rock that could damage an uninjured ankle so take care out there, choose your routes carefully.
Macia use to have plenty of enormous jugs on the steep walls of his gym. As a reference: Patxi Usoibaga never climbed harder than 7b+ during his volume block (when he onsighted 8c/+ and won world cups).
My tuppence...Fiirstly, you won't do much volume if you get boxed every go, that isn't efficient for getting fit.Lots of easy volume for generally hanging in there on easier ground.Shorter, harder reps with intervals for power-stamina (as I learned it) eg 4x4sBouldering walls are good for building fitness.
Climb 4 boulder problems in a row with no rest, then take a short rest, do 4 repetitions of this. Rests should be as for circuits – short, probably in the 1-3minute range. This can also be done with more reps (e.g. 4 boulders done 8 times) or can be done as multiple blocks of 4x4 to create a high volume session.
Okay. All the same standard? Rest?Do you not just get them completely wired?
If you only bouldered before aim to get in 600 moves per session first week. Up to maybe 1200-1600 moves at week 4. You can split this anyway you like.
Quote from: jwi on April 22, 2017, 11:56:09 amIf you only bouldered before aim to get in 600 moves per session first week. Up to maybe 1200-1600 moves at week 4. You can split this anyway you like.600 moves? I always struggle to think in terms of moves done, but after waving my arms about in the air above my desk I'm figuring that as perhaps around a move a meter on easy ground. That's a lot of easy climbing! I always find anything over 300m in an aerocap session a bit much. Clearly I'm not continentally fit... or have I got my measurements wrong?
And seriously, if you never did any high volume stuff before, get gloves. Otherwise you'll skin most of your hands.
Quote from: seankenny on April 25, 2017, 03:23:48 pmQuote from: jwi on April 22, 2017, 11:56:09 amIf you only bouldered before aim to get in 600 moves per session first week. Up to maybe 1200-1600 moves at week 4. You can split this anyway you like.600 moves? I always struggle to think in terms of moves done, but after waving my arms about in the air above my desk I'm figuring that as perhaps around a move a meter on easy ground. That's a lot of easy climbing! I always find anything over 300m in an aerocap session a bit much. Clearly I'm not continentally fit... or have I got my measurements wrong?600 moves is around 60cm*600 = 360 m of climbing. Or 600 * 4 = 60 * 40 = 40 min of continuous climbing, without stopping.I didn't say it was easy. Or fun. And seriously, if you never did any high volume stuff before, get gloves. Otherwise you'll skin most of your hands.