[kingholmesy]

One for all you thousands of shale devotees out there, form an orderly queue ... 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=448126

My favourite new route to date (it's not a long list to choose from) and harder (and dare I say better) than the existing routes on the crag (albeit Littlejohn's XS has a better name in Campaign for Real Shale).

[SA Chris]

Sounds like a fun ride. Great names both. Clearly not a frequented crag, any photos?

[kingholmesy]

... any photos?

I'm too technologically inept to add a photo to this thread, but I have just managed to add a pretty good photo topo here:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=448126#photos

Unfortunately no photos of us actually on the route - far to busy being gripped!

[SA Chris]

Great, that's a crazy bit of geology!

[Falling Down]

Great route description.  Nice to read about some adventurous climbing amongst the weighted hangs.

[Will Hunt]

Allow me to be the first to say: fuck that.

[kingholmesy]

Allow me to be the first to say: fuck that.

  Admittedly it wouldn't be everyone's cup of tea, but if you're into that sort of thing it was awesome.

There's a direct finish to be done straight up the headwall above the big overlap.  Looks like the climbing would be good, but probably English 6b, no gear for miles and snappy rock.  Needless to say I didn't try it.

[kingholmesy]

Nice to read about some adventurous climbing amongst the weighted hangs.

It's the thought of getting on stuff like this in the summer that gets me through a winter of weighted hangs. 

[OffshoreAndy]

Fine effort mate. Looks exactly like my sort of route ;-)
Glad to see your newest addition isn't slowing you down.

[kingholmesy]

Hi mate.  Hope you're well.  Give us a shout if you're down here sometime and fancy meeting up.

[

Looks exactly like my sort of route ;-)

Just to be clear, it isn't a boulder problem traverse. 

[OffshoreAndy]

Ha, arse scraping traverses are my forte - this is true.

[Wood FT]

Great stuff this

  Also saw that you've repeated Pat Littlejohn's relatively new E5 on Bolt Tail, how was that?

[kingholmesy]

 Also saw that you've repeated Pat Littlejohn's relatively new E5 on Bolt Tail, how was that?

Fantastic, can't recommend it enough.  A scramble down the cliffs and tidal boulder hop it give it a real sense of commitment.  An easy first pitch to coax you in.  A steep pumpy second pitch on big holds.  A weird, 3D third pitch udging up various shelves and grooves.  Sustained but never desperate with reasonable gear throughout.