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[Peak] [Burbage North] [6c+] Pincer (Read 4238 times)

cofe

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[Peak] [Burbage North] [6c+] Pincer
January 03, 2017, 01:25:33 pm
Left-hand line on the Velvet Crab block. Start low, reach out/jump to the arete, match, rock left by undercutting the big break. Felt about 6c+ but that's a lame grade so I might upgrade it. Fun, anyway.


Bonjoy

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#1 Re: [Peak] [Burbage North] [6c+] Pincer
January 03, 2017, 02:02:24 pm
Nice. I think you should do a Panton in the next guide and replace 6C+ with 7A-.

Will Hunt

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#2 Re: [Peak] [Burbage North] [6c+] Pincer
January 03, 2017, 04:41:49 pm
I'm really confused here. It looks like a phenomenal boulder. Great line, great climbing etc. But it's 6C+ so can't be worth climbing - are you sure you've got the grade right? Looks like a 7A to me.

dave

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#3 Re: [Peak] [Burbage North] [6c+] Pincer
January 03, 2017, 04:46:52 pm
B5 is so much more appealing.

Will Hunt

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#4 Re: [Peak] [Burbage North] [6c+] Pincer
January 03, 2017, 04:49:26 pm
Try putting a photo on Instagram with a stream of hashtags and some dribble about how magical your day was. That'll make it a better problem.

andy_e

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#5 Re: [Peak] [Burbage North] [6c+] Pincer
January 03, 2017, 04:56:26 pm
Make sure to include a hideous dab for more publicity.

Scouse D

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#6 Re: [Peak] [Burbage North] [6c+] Pincer
January 03, 2017, 06:04:54 pm
I was there. Its 7A. Even if its not 7A its 7A.

36chambers

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#7 Re: [Peak] [Burbage North] [6c+] Pincer
January 03, 2017, 06:13:29 pm
I'm not too familiar with this bloc, but does this share the same start as velvet crab, and if not, will it add anything to velvet crab if you start that this way?

Looks brilliant by the way.

Fiend

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#8 Re: [Peak] [Burbage North] [6c+] Pincer
January 03, 2017, 06:32:17 pm
For a new 7A at Burbizzle North, that looks remarkably un-shit!

dave

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#9 Re: [Peak] [Burbage North] [6c+] Pincer
January 04, 2017, 09:17:47 am
I'm not too familiar with this bloc, but does this share the same start as velvet crab, and if not, will it add anything to velvet crab if you start that this way?

It's years since i've been on this, but Cofe's start above looks vageuly familiar for Velvet Crab. Or maybe VC starts hanging the big break, I can't really remember. Whatever, it definitely doesn't start where this guy starts:



#BackAround

cofe

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#10 Re: [Peak] [Burbage North] [6c+] Pincer
January 04, 2017, 09:28:35 am
Velvet Crab doesn't start low, just on the arete. Made sense to start the new one low so it was more complete as it's short.

monkey boy

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#11 Re: [Peak] [Burbage North] [6c+] Pincer
January 04, 2017, 09:30:52 am
So obvious link line there for the taking!

Did either of you wads try Smash and Crab?

dave

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#12 Re: [Peak] [Burbage North] [6c+] Pincer
January 04, 2017, 09:43:28 am
So obvious link line there for the taking!

Up Zafs, across the two roof cracks, down VC and up Pincer has the look of a classic.

205Chris

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#13 Re: [Peak] [Burbage North] [6c+] Pincer
January 04, 2017, 10:58:37 am
So obvious link line there for the taking!


I know at least two people who've done velvet crab from that low start.  Doesn't really add much but it makes sense as a logical start.

monkey boy

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#14 Re: [Peak] [Burbage North] [6c+] Pincer
January 04, 2017, 11:25:41 am
So obvious link line there for the taking!

Up Zafs, across the two roof cracks, down VC and up Pincer has the look of a classic.

La Terrace-esque! Classic indeed

Duma

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#15 Re: [Peak] [Burbage North] [6c+] Pincer
January 04, 2017, 11:26:37 am
So obvious link line there for the taking!


I know at least two people who've done velvet crab from that low start.  Doesn't really add much but it makes sense as a logical start.

I'd always assumed this was the VC start - seems weird not to.

LB

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#16 Re: [Peak] [Burbage North] [6c+] Pincer
January 04, 2017, 04:52:03 pm
I did this today. Definitely un-shit. Ta.

thirtytwosrule

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Did VC recently and the low start on the block is the obvious place to start I thought. Felt like a cop out starting on the arete.

I have been known to be wrong but then again the start moves out to the arete are nice moves so either way.

 

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