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Homewall / Woody holds : Advice, reviews etc. (Read 15533 times)

haydn jones

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I've  just did a set for milton keynes and most of the wooden holds were silly goat holds. Fantastic to hold and feel nice and soft in the hands/ on the skin. To clean them you give them a quick wire brushing. Its just as fast as jet washing aparently.

moose

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I've got a pair of his tufas on my woodie - very nicely sculpted, smooth but grippy (bloody hard work when placed vertically up a steep board though!). 

Most of the pinches on my board are Crusher though.  Harder and smoother wood in basic shapes - very regular in a graduated range of sizes - so good for systems boards and being able to tweak the exact degree of pinchiness you want to work.  They're shown below (along with some big LXGrips edges):


Nutty

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I've seen a few boards outside, and as long as the holds aren't directly in contact with rain, most wood tends to hold up ok for a few years. That said, a proper fine grained hard wood such as oak would hold up really well, and handle moisture a lot better than say ash or beech and especially poplar which is crap. It just so happens  :whistle: :lol: I've a load of oak in my store that I could do with moving along... so I could do a good deal on some holds with it if you were interested..

I've been thinking about wooden holds made out of a more weather-resistant wood than the usual ash or beech for the outdoor board I'm building, so I'd definitely be interested in some oak holds.

jwi

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Most of the pinches on my board are Crusher though.  Harder and smoother wood in basic shapes - very regular in a graduated range of sizes - so good for systems boards and being able to tweak the exact degree of pinchiness you want to work.  They're shown below (along with some big LXGrips edges):


They look very good! I guess the shipping cost to France might make me reconsider my anti-DIY stance... (the only system-board style holds I've seen in France are made by woodpecker and only come in one size. Ridiculously overpriced as well)

Andy W

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Most of the pinches on my board are Crusher though.  Harder and smoother wood in basic shapes - very regular in a graduated range of sizes - so good for systems boards and being able to tweak the exact degree of pinchiness you want to work.  They're shown below (along with some big LXGrips edges):


They look very good! I guess the shipping cost to France might make me reconsider my anti-DIY stance... (the only system-board style holds I've seen in France are made by woodpecker and only come in one size. Ridiculously overpriced as well)

Crusher shipped to me in France for a pretty good price, i.e. I didn't even consider it! The crusher holds are basic and I think a DIY approach IF you had the time and inclination would reward. Also my board is 50 degrees and they are quite hard to hold!

jwi

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Thanks! As I don't have access to a milling machine in Toulouse I think I pass on DIY efforts when shipping is not too expensive

EdGowSmith

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Tagging onto this thread...

Does anyone have any good suggestions for screw-on feet for a 50 deg board?
I was wanting to get two sets of feet: a smaller set and a larger set so you can vary difficulty of problems, but undecided about this.
I'm currently looking at these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/30-Climbing-Holds-Size-Colour/dp/B0052RA4WK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1489360068&sr=8-2&keywords=climbing%2Bfoot%2Bholds&th=1

but it's hard to know whether they'd be suitable for that angle.

Durbs

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I think I'd stick to a known manufacturer rather than random Amazon ones...

Core do some good sets of screw-ons


jshaw

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I've found the strangely shaped ones hard to set with on my board. But I guess it depends what you want to practice

I prefer more geometric style footholds, like these:

http://www.rockrun.com/brands/a-f/core-climbing/core-geometric-board-screw-ons


Or the moonboard footholds (but these aren't screw-on):

http://www.moonclimbing.com/moon-board-footholds.html


Then use small handholds for bigger feet, like these:

https://www.climb-holds.com/en/product/classic-nano-jugs

 

jshaw

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I think I'd stick to a known manufacturer rather than random Amazon ones...

Core do some good sets of screw-ons

+1

Paul B

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but it's hard to know whether they'd be suitable for that angle.

CORE board screw-ons work well on the Depot steep board (IMO). I've heard the domes at the Climbing Works (Beastmaker) are 'tricky' but good.

skelf

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the thing with different shaped ones like those amazon jobs is that you start to know the good ones and use them over less good ones, hence change your sequence accordingly. The core ones look the business but given how geometric they are, you would be way cheaper cutting your own from some hardwood. I made a similar set from an old chopping board for free in about an hour.

skelf

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saw an add for these on the other channel and thought they would be quite good for a system style setup. I'm still too tight to buy them though ....

http://rockcity.co.uk/store/rockcity-campus-board-footholds-subset-1


moose

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Just fitted 6 of these to my board - nice deep wooden undercuts.  Not sure if they are on Crusher's website but maybe worth asking him about if you want similar (supposedly he made the first versions for a Rainshadow aspirant's woodie - as they wanted good positive undercuts to reach up into).

20170318_161359 by lukejohnward, on Flickr

abarro81

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https://www.hardwoodholds.co.uk
Will Smith just started selling holds, he made some for the school board a while ago and they're dead good

 

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