[ali k]

Finally I've sorted a month-long trip to the US this summer and flights are booked to San Francisco (mid Aug - mid Sept) 

Looking to sample some of the best rock routes in California and could do with help coming up with a 'must-do' ticklist. Mostly looking for free climbs to do in a day rather than multi-day big walling or aiding. I'm assuming most stuff in Yosemite will be too hot even towards the end of the trip? Plus I don't think my partner is too bothered about big wall faff. Although the Regular NW face of half dome has been suggested as a possibility to do in a day? Also, routes on the list not to bother with equally welcome.

So far I've got on the list:

THE HULK (Probably only do a couple of routes up there - which one(s) to do?)
Sunspot Dihedral
Positive Vibrations
Red Dihedral
Venturi Effect

TUOLOMNE
Fairview Dome - Regular Route & Lucky Streaks
Third Pillar of Dana - Regular Route
Daff Dome - Bombs over Tokyo (P1), Blown Away, Crescent Arch
Medlicott Dome - Ciebola, Bachar-Yerian, Peace
Phobos-Deimos Cliff - Blues Riff, Goldfinger
Puppy Dome - Do or Fly
Ellery Bowl - Speed of Life
Whizz Domes - Handbook
Drug Dome - OZ
East Cottage Dome - Orange Plasma, Comfortably Numb, Knobnoxious, Knobulator

THE NEEDLES
Thin Ice
Atlantis
Don Juan Wall
Spook Book
Airy Interlude/Igor Unchained
Scirocco
Romantic Warrior/Sea of Tranquility
Fancy Free

YOSEMITE
Half Dome Regular NW Face

Any more suggestions of must-do routes / crags to visit?

[T_B]

Some good single pitch routes I'd recommend:

Black Angel and Electric Africa.
Spontaneous Combustion and Pyromania.

[ashtond6]

Research Nw face of half dome before attempting

Pine creek
https://www.mountainproject.com/v/pine-creek-canyon/105907296

Whitney portal
Bony fingers is a must do

[JacobJacob]

In the Valley The Rostrum will be shady in September and is mega!

A really incredible route which isn't in any guides is "My Favourite Things" on the West Face of Clouds Rest. Probably the most spectacular position of any route I've done in Yosemite. (you park in Tuolumne and hike into the top of Tenaya Canyon, the climb is overlooking Half Dome and Mount Watkins), it's high so should be cool enough that time of year. Some beta on Mountain Project/Summitpost/supertopo but message me on facebook if you want extra info...

[Fultonius]

Awesome choices! Can't add much.  A day bouldering up in Bishop is nice to throw in. Hot springs near Benton Crossing with a beer is rest day heaven!

Finally I've sorted a month-long trip to the US this summer and flights are booked to San Francisco (mid Aug - mid Sept) 

Looking to sample some of the best rock routes in California and could do with help coming up with a 'must-do' ticklist. Mostly looking for free climbs to do in a day rather than multi-day big walling or aiding. I'm assuming most stuff in Yosemite will be too hot even towards the end of the trip? Plus I don't think my partner is too bothered about big wall faff. Although the Regular NW face of half dome has been suggested as a possibility to do in a day? Also, routes on the list not to bother with equally welcome.

So far I've got on the list:

THE HULK (Probably only do a couple of routes up there - which one(s) to do?)
Sunspot Dihedral
Positive Vibrations
Red Dihedral
Venturi Effect

Sunspot and Positive Vibes share the same first 2 pitches - so probably pick one. We did PV and it's mega! MEGA! Neil might not agree bu he doesn't care much for jamming.
I wasn't overwhelmed with Red Dihedral. Some good climbing (a pitch or two) and loads of wandery and, in places, loose pitches. Basically it's there for folks who can only climb 10b and want to climb on the Hulk.

I'd LOVE to go back and do Venturi Effect.

TUOLOMNE
Fairview Dome - Regular Route & Lucky Streaks Lucky Streaks was good fun
Third Pillar of Dana - Regular Route Good fun
Daff Dome - Bombs over Tokyo (P1), Blown Away, Crescent Arch
Medlicott Dome - Ciebola, Bachar-Yerian, Peace
Phobos-Deimos Cliff - Blues Riff, Goldfinger
Puppy Dome - Do or Fly
Ellery Bowl - Speed of Life
Whizz Domes - Handbook
Drug Dome - OZ
East Cottage Dome - Orange Plasma, Comfortably Numb, Knobnoxious, Knobulator Fun crag - knobbing all day long"

Didn't do any of the rest of those.

THE NEEDLES
Thin Ice
Atlantis
Don Juan Wall
Spook Book
Airy Interlude/Igor Unchained
Scirocco
Romantic Warrior/Sea of Tranquility
Fancy Free

Somehow our map reading skills went awry and ended up driving right past on the way to the Hulk from Red rocks and coulnd't face the detour.

YOSEMITE
Half Dome Regular NW Face

Any more suggestions of must-do routes / crags to visit?

As said, not sure what the current status is. Seems less folks do it these days since the big rockfall. Definitely doable in a day but get your french free skills honed! (no need for grindingly slow aid.)

The only thing we felt this last trip about going to Yosemite was how much of a circus it is. I'm not sure it's worth it for a day or two as you don't have time to get tuned in. Although, a quick blast up Rostrum & RNWF would make a good 3 days 

Can I come????

[T_B]

Dunno if it's on the topo but I found one of the lower pitches on Venturi Effect pretty spicey gear-wise. Think E5 6a. We only did half the route. Get on Airstream. The first 12c pitch is pretty easy, the 13 pitch has a bolt every 3 feet and is a boulder problem really and the higher 12c pitch is amazing but graded for the position etc. As is well known Positive Vibes is up there as one of the best 11as anywhere. As good as stuff in the valley.

Given you're likely to see no one at the Needles or High Sierras, I would avoid the inevitable culture shock of the Valley. For free climbing The Needles is better anyway imo.

[ali k]

Thanks for the suggestions so far!

The only thing we felt this last trip about going to Yosemite was how much of a circus it is. I'm not sure it's worth it for a day or two as you don't have time to get tuned in.

Given you're likely to see no one at the Needles or High Sierras, I would avoid the inevitable culture shock of the Valley.

Blimey is Yosemite that bad?! 
Maybe a stupid question but how easy is it to just get into the valley for a day to do a route and get an early start? If we wanted to do The Rostrum for example?

[Fultonius]

Yes and no...

My first time there were were only in yosemite (well, a couple of days in Toualumne too). It was great.

Second time we'd gone from Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) [it is mandatory to put the acronym in even if you don't use it again in the rest of your piece, FACT]. to San Francisco and it was just a culture shock from chilled out, quiet places to the hoardes.

Rostrum is definitely feasible - it's right by the park entrance. You know what, don't listen to us "been there, done it grumblies" you HAVE to go just for the view. Just don't expect to get camping anywhere. Are you tenting or got a van for the trip?

[ali k]

We'll have a hire car and tent.

So can you just drive in and park up if going in early for the day?

[Fultonius]

Aye - just need to pay your fee at the gate and drive to the parking spot.

[JacobJacob]

I think the Valley is awesome, imo nowhere compares to the quality and scale of routes there. The trade off is the circus that is the Valley floor, I usually find that once I'm a pitch up it all melts away. Especially if you're not on one of the 10 routes that everyone climbs (of which the Rostrum is one unfortunately).

You could definitely bivy outside the park and get an early start on the Rostrum, the best place to bivy is on the 140 around El Portal village, there's always loads of people sleeping in the pullouts by the side of the road and they very rarely get hassle.

For RNWF you'd need to hike up the Death Slabs and bivy at the base if you're planning on doing it in a day.

[RichK]

Given you're likely to see no one at the Needles or High Sierras, I would avoid the inevitable culture shock of the Valley. For free climbing The Needles is better anyway imo.

+1

 

The Needles is far and away the best crag I've been to in the U.S. I wasn't taken with Yosemite at all.
Tick lists look spot on....

If you need a change of scene at the Needles try nearby Dome Rock....... fun run out, steep slabs on chicken heads.

[Fultonius]

The Needles is far and away the best crag I've been to in the U.S.

At first I thought "dammit, we missed a good place" but on the plus side....something good to go back for!

[ali k]

A bit cheeky I know but would anyone that has the High Sierra guide be willing to scan / photograph the topo & description for Positive Vibrations on the Hulk? Loathe to buy the guidebook just for one route! 

[ali k]

Oh, and the approach description too 

[Fultonius]

We got by fine using the mountainproject app and online topos. In fact, we didn't use a guidebook for the entire month.

[ali k]

I've been scouring online topos to try and find one of PV but can't find anything. Think
I'm sorted for most other stuff, it's just this route I'm struggling with!

[Fultonius]

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/106217875

It's really not a hard route to follow. You might find someone up there with the guide. I'd send you a copy, but we didn't have it. If you follow the written route description on MP you really can't go wrong. Just remember the final fingercrack 5.11 pitch has a lone bolt that is halfway through the pitch - I belayed there but it's better to keep going, especially if your partner's arm have given up and he makes you finish the pitch off...

[ali k]

Ok thanks. If we get lost and have an epic I'll know who to blame 

[Fultonius]

I knew there was a better topo somewhere. Et voila!

[SA Chris]

https://www.amazon.com/Good-Great-Awesome-Eastern-Climbing/dp/0967611644

I loaned this to someone (can't remember who) and never got it back. A good guide to the area if you can track it down.

[T_B]

Ok thanks. If we get lost and have an epic I'll know who to blame 

Isn't he talking about the route? I.E. not the approach to the Hulk?

I couldn't begin to describe the approach to the Hulk without a map and recent knowledge. Presumably there's a good description/map available somewhere? My advice would be to recce it as far as the river/logjam crossing. If you get that sorted and find the trail that heads up the side valley to the Hulk, then you're in. Crossing the logjams too early can lead to all sorts of bushwhacking (I speak from experience).

One other thing that may or may not be worth mentioning is that some friends recently had trouble locating the raps having done PV and it sounded as though they didn't do enough moving together across the top of the cliff Alpine stylee. Be prepared to travel at least 200m to the top of the Hulk firstly along the crest, then on loose walking terrain and up a short wall on the back side, to get to the top and descend to the raps above the rap gully.

[donie]

The approach path to the Hulk is way more defined/marked than it used to be and now easy to follow.
Best descent nowadays is to follow that line of abs To R of where positive vibes tops out.Starts just below a well defined square cut notch on the summit ridge.The first and subsequent raps are now properly double bolted ie dont look for tat/pegs as described in some books.A single 70m will get you down if you dont miss any intermediate ab points.Knot you rope as some are 35m!The way off the back is a pain in comparison

[Fultonius]

The walk in isn't too bad, just give yourself a load of time. We rapped down the line shown in white on the topo I posted above. It's about 50m from the top of PV.

Oh, just noticed Donnie's reply - what he said!

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk