[SFrancis]

I would love to see a worldwide Classic bloc (5+-6B+), hard bloc(6C-7B+) and extreme bloc list (=>7C)

[standard]

We've all missed the obvious list-topper that is Malc's One Armer. The essence of bouldering, distilled down to pure poetry in the motion of cranking  yourself two feet upwards off an arbitrary edge at The Tor.

alright nibble

[Sasquatch]

My earlier comment came off as a bit of an arse. 

I think what could be a different way to look at this would be to select the top bouldering areas and then a top two from each that were the best there. 

For example in the US, I'd say Bishop, Hueco, and the Chatt area are the prime areas (not saying they're the best, just the best known.)

So for Bishop I think it would come down to Spectre, Stained glass, Mandala, southwest arete (grandma peabody), High Plains or evilution. My gut would say Spectre and High Plains, but I think many would say Evilution instead...

For Hueco, I think Full Service, The Feather,  power of silence, or Slashface. I'm sure I'm forgetting a few, but i haven't been in a while.

I don't know the southeast as well, but prob the shield(voted best in US a while back), god module, The wave, Millepede, or some such...

Midnight Lightning doesn't climb that well either, it's like crimping glass. It does look good though.

"Pretty cool" though "huh"

as they say - Location, location, location.

There are many better lines with better climbing around...

[tomtom]

Shocked that the eatswood traverse hasn't been mentioned yet...

[jwi]

Midnight Lightning doesn't climb that well either, it's like crimping glass. It does look good though.

I thought it climbed very well and deserved its status as a classic three star problem. The first foothold and the first two handholds are polished, but not too bad? The holds are big and comfortable, the moves dynamic and fun, and the mantleshelf move adds a bit of interesting 5c-spice. I only did a handful of problems in Camp 4, but I don't think any of them was as good as Midnight Lighting. Maybe the hard problems are amazing, I wouldn't know.

[moose]

The only truly worthy grit problem is obviously the reverse of Crucifix low traverse into Crucifix Arete without the break: purity, aesthetics, cow-shit - the total package.

For UK problems, in terms of pure aesthetics, would any of the Queens Crag biggies be up to scratch - Queen Kong, Arc Royal etc?

[James Malloch]

Shocked that the eatswood traverse hasn't been mentioned yet...

Which way?

[BRidal]

So with a few amendments:

Livin Large
The Hatchling
Midnight Lightning
Careless Torque
Meadowlark Lemon < Spectre
Misericorde < Partage
New Base Line / The Understanding
Ammagamma / Cherry Picking
Evilution / Mandala
La Marie Rose / Horseradish / Salad Cream / Wading through condoms...

[the_dom]

So with a few amendments:

Livin Large Shosholoza
The Hatchling Pandemonium
Midnight Lightning
Careless Torque
Meadowlark Lemon < Spectre
Misericorde < Partage
New Base Line / The Understanding
Ammagamma / Cherry Picking
Evilution / Mandala
La Marie Rose / Horseradish / Salad Cream / Wading through condoms...

Some amendments from an SA perspective.. And maybe Sky, although I don't know how it climbs.

[Doylo]

Midnight Lightning doesn't climb that well either, it's like crimping glass. It does look good though.

I thought it climbed very well and deserved its status as a classic three star problem. The first foothold and the first two handholds are polished, but not too bad? The holds are big and comfortable, the moves dynamic and fun, and the mantleshelf move adds a bit of interesting 5c-spice. I only did a handful of problems in Camp 4, but I don't think any of them was as good as Midnight Lighting. Maybe the hard problems are amazing, I wouldn't know.

Thriller's better.

[Johnny Brown]

Only problem I've ever clapped one-handed when popping off the glass holds.

[Coops_13]

So with a few amendments:

Livin Large Shosholoza
The Hatchling Pandemonium
Midnight Lightning
Careless Torque
Meadowlark Lemon < Spectre
Misericorde < Partage
New Base Line / The Understanding
Ammagamma / Cherry Picking
Evilution / Mandala
La Marie Rose / Horseradish / Salad Cream / Wading through condoms...

Some amendments from an SA perspective.. And maybe Sky, although I don't know how it climbs.

From watching videos alone, Sky has got to be in there

[remus]

Shocked that the eatswood traverse hasn't been mentioned yet...

Which way?

There and back. Best of both worlds.

[turnipturned]

Shosholoza over Living Large????

What the.... Shosh is broken and it keeps breaking...... and I can't span between the holds so clearly should be removed from list.

[Moo]

Imhotep for font I think

[Doylo]

Shosholoza over Living Large????

What the.... Shosh is broken and it keeps breaking...... and I can't span between the holds so clearly should be removed from list.

Midget

[cjsheps]

Shocked that the eatswood traverse hasn't been mentioned yet...

It would be interesting to make a Bottom 10 list. Boulders that are so lowball, shuffley, eliminate or forgettable, yet somehow have become a big deal - usually for their difficulty. The kind of problem that would make a non-climber despair. For example,

Malc's One Armer
eatswood traverse, there-and-back
That 7B traverse in the Cromlech where people park their cars
Something on Pinches Wall
Diesel Power
Etc etc

[dave]

Shocked that the eatswood traverse hasn't been mentioned yet...

It would be interesting to make a Bottom 10 list. Boulders that are so lowball, shuffley, eliminate or forgettable, yet somehow have become a big deal - usually for their difficulty. The kind of problem that would make a non-climber despair. For example,

Malc's One Armer
eatswood traverse, there-and-back
That 7B traverse in the Cromlech where people park their cars
Something on Pinches Wall
Diesel Power
Etc etc

To be fair EW trav is outstanding, just that i'ts slightly less desirable now it's been relegated to it's current status of Shark's ill-advised Oak training problem.

[SA Chris]

For UK problems, in terms of pure aesthetics, would any of the Queens Crag biggies be up to scratch - Queen Kong, Arc Royal etc?

Either of the above look great, but no idea how they climb. Malc's Arete at Torridon?

[Dexter]

Shocked that the eatswood traverse hasn't been mentioned yet...

It would be interesting to make a Bottom 10 list. Boulders that are so lowball, shuffley, eliminate or forgettable, yet somehow have become a big deal - usually for their difficulty. The kind of problem that would make a non-climber despair. For example,

Malc's One Armer
eatswood traverse, there-and-back
That 7B traverse in the Cromlech where people park their cars
Something on Pinches Wall
Diesel Power
Etc etc

Jerry's traverse at cratcliffe? Finger mashing jug campusing

[AMorris]

Shocked that the eatswood traverse hasn't been mentioned yet...

It would be interesting to make a Bottom 10 list. Boulders that are so lowball, shuffley, eliminate or forgettable, yet somehow have become a big deal - usually for their difficulty. The kind of problem that would make a non-climber despair. For example,

Malc's One Armer
eatswood traverse, there-and-back
That 7B traverse in the Cromlech where people park their cars
Something on Pinches Wall
Diesel Power
Etc etc

Can we kindly remove Diesel Power from the list while my psyche is still high to get it done?

[joeisidle]

Shocked that the eatswood traverse hasn't been mentioned yet...

It would be interesting to make a Bottom 10 list. Boulders that are so lowball, shuffley, eliminate or forgettable, yet somehow have become a big deal - usually for their difficulty. The kind of problem that would make a non-climber despair. For example,

Malc's One Armer
eatswood traverse, there-and-back
That 7B traverse in the Cromlech where people park their cars
Something on Pinches Wall
Diesel Power
Etc etc

Jerry's traverse at cratcliffe? Finger mashing jug campusing

What about a worn traverse at the Plantation with confusing/arbitrary rules, next to far better lines and movement that see less attention, that somehow still inexplicably gets mobbed whenever there's a sunny weekend? Maybe with an arse-scraping extension into it for extra value?

That or Captain Hook

[36chambers]

Shocked that the eatswood traverse hasn't been mentioned yet...

It would be interesting to make a Bottom 10 list. Boulders that are so lowball, shuffley, eliminate or forgettable, yet somehow have become a big deal - usually for their difficulty. The kind of problem that would make a non-climber despair. For example,

Malc's One Armer
eatswood traverse, there-and-back
That 7B traverse in the Cromlech where people park their cars
Something on Pinches Wall
Diesel Power
Etc etc

Can we kindly remove Diesel Power from the list while my psyche is still high to get it done?

haha my thoughts exactly. Whilst it's not exactly a king line, it is good, basic, hard climbing. Which is currently my favourite style.

[WillRobertson]

Shocked that the eatswood traverse hasn't been mentioned yet...

It would be interesting to make a Bottom 10 list. Boulders that are so lowball, shuffley, eliminate or forgettable, yet somehow have become a big deal - usually for their difficulty. The kind of problem that would make a non-climber despair. For example,

Malc's One Armer
eatswood traverse, there-and-back
That 7B traverse in the Cromlech where people park their cars
Something on Pinches Wall
Diesel Power
Etc etc

Can we kindly remove Diesel Power from the list while my psyche is still high to get it done?

haha my thoughts exactly. Whilst it's not exactly a king line, it is good, basic, hard climbing. Which is currently my favourite style.

And this is why no consensus will ever be reached for "best" problems, it's totally subjective and people like different things. For example I had my first play on Captain Hook and really enjoyed it, I'm looking forward to getting back on it. And whilst I admire the clean lines of big aretes I don't really enjoy climbing them (not as much as other styles anyway).

Trying to get a consensus for best lines is a different matter, I doubt you'll find many people who won't be impressed by Living Large or Careless Torque.

[Luke Owens]

Really surprised Split Traverse hasn't been mentioned yet