[James Malloch]

Does anyone any approximate grades of the sections of this? Sounds like there are a couple of rests/shakes along the way after exiting Something Stupid.

It's one I'm hoping to have a play on when it's dry later this year but it would be good to know what it's like ahead of time (in case it's definitely too hard) - any cruxy boulder sections or is it fairly steady climbing?

Any info/thoughts would be appreciated.

[T_B]

7c+ to the 'rest' at half way then 7c+ to the top. It's unrelentingly not that hard so you have to be very, very fit.

I haven't done it.

[James Malloch]

Is the rest not great? It didn't look amazing from the video I watched of it yesterday (Steve mac trying to onsight it).

Thanks for that though. Sounds like I'll have to keep up with my training... I think 7c+ would be achievable again relatively soon. Two on top of each other will take some work.

[T_B]

There's probably someone on here who can say better than me, as it was some years ago (2008) that I tried it. I seem to remember there's potential for a bit of a knee bar, but it was mainly a shake. I was nowhere near fit enough at a time when I did Zoolook first RP after a working session on it the day before.

[mikenty]

From the top of something stupid it remains sustained up to a bridged shake in the groove proper with your hands alternating between a good mono undercut and pocket. This shake out gets better with work and as you get fitter.
The rest at half way is pretty good. There is a chunky flake with fair feet to alternate hands on, then you can move up to a semi knee bar in a little pod. I did both and rested various bits. The knee bar can (I think- not by me) be hands off but would be very core sapping.
There is another shake out high on the head wall after the crux, on a deep side pull, but the feet are smears. You can get enough back for the final stretch to victory though.

[Will Hunt]

From the top of something stupid it remains sustained up to a bridged shake in the groove proper with your hands alternating between a good mono undercut and pocket. This shake out gets better with work and as you get fitter.
The rest at half way is pretty good. There is a chunky flake with fair feet to alternate hands on, then you can move up to a semi knee bar in a little pod. I did both and rested various bits. The knee bar can (I think- not by me) be hands off but would be very core sapping.
There is another shake out high on the head wall after the crux, on a deep side pull, but the feet are smears. You can get enough back for the final stretch to victory though.

From start to finish, that's a post that has me reaching for the bouldering mat.

[mikenty]

From the top of something stupid it remains sustained up to a bridged shake in the groove proper with your hands alternating between a good mono undercut and pocket. This shake out gets better with work and as you get fitter.
The rest at half way is pretty good. There is a chunky flake with fair feet to alternate hands on, then you can move up to a semi knee bar in a little pod. I did both and rested various bits. The knee bar can (I think- not by me) be hands off but would be very core sapping.
There is another shake out high on the head wall after the crux, on a deep side pull, but the feet are smears. You can get enough back for the final stretch to victory though.

From start to finish, that's a post that has me reaching for the bouldering mat.

I guess it would be even harder carrying a bouldering mat?

[James Malloch]

From the top of something stupid it remains sustained up to a bridged shake in the groove proper with your hands alternating between a good mono undercut and pocket. This shake out gets better with work and as you get fitter.
The rest at half way is pretty good. There is a chunky flake with fair feet to alternate hands on, then you can move up to a semi knee bar in a little pod. I did both and rested various bits. The knee bar can (I think- not by me) be hands off but would be very core sapping.
There is another shake out high on the head wall after the crux, on a deep side pull, but the feet are smears. You can get enough back for the final stretch to victory though.

From start to finish, that's a post that has me reaching for the bouldering mat.

I guess it would be even harder carrying a bouldering mat?

Maybe not with the right breeze...

Thanks for the detail Mike. Sounds like theres stuff there if you're fit enough. Better get working on that now - it'll be ages until it's dry so there's plenty of time!

[moose]

Thanks for the detail Mike. Sounds like theres stuff there if you're fit enough. Better get working on that now - it'll be ages until it's dry so there's plenty of time!

And then once it is dry, it will be in direct sunlight and unclimbably hot whenever you can get on it.   It is a route I would dearly love to do - the line of the crag - but it always struck me as a bit of a logistical ball-ache.

[mikenty]

No problem, I'd get on it as soon as it's dry and try it. If you can do all the moves then I found that going for long links and then red points on the route are an effective way to get fit.
You can also have intermediate goals. Up to the half way rest is as good a 7c+ as you can do at Malham. Many people when they have done this, go for the Groovy Baby alternative finish at about 8a, so getting used to doing the lower section, working the rest and pressing on.
You can often drop down from the top and work the upper section when the lower bit is wet, but it does feel much harder when you approach it after having done the bottom.

[Probes]

It didn't look amazing from the video I watched of it yesterday (Steve mac trying to onsight it).

Have you a link to this? cheers 

[James Malloch]

It didn't look amazing from the video I watched of it yesterday (Steve mac trying to onsight it).

Have you a link to this? cheers 

Quite a good video given it's filmed from pretty close. However, it's an O/S attempt so may not be the best beta...

[James Malloch]

No problem, I'd get on it as soon as it's dry and try it. If you can do all the moves then I found that going for long links and then red points on the route are an effective way to get fit.
You can also have intermediate goals. Up to the half way rest is as good a 7c+ as you can do at Malham. Many people when they have done this, go for the Groovy Baby alternative finish at about 8a, so getting used to doing the lower section, working the rest and pressing on.
You can often drop down from the top and work the upper section when the lower bit is wet, but it does feel much harder when you approach it after having done the bottom.

That's the plan - I've a partner who wants to get on it also so hopefully it dries out early in the season. I envisage it being a reasonably long project (year or two) so it will be more for first acquaintances. Sounds like a good option would be the first half anyway which I would be keen to try. Just climbing through the catwalk roof is an exciting thought!

[JacobJacob]

I'd agree with two 7c+s split by a good rest.

1st 7c+: Something stupid into a weird off balance v4/5, then another 7b? to the rest.

2nd 7c+: Extremely sustained on one pad edges for a long time. I found this part tricky to remember a perfect sequence on because it all looks the same!

Also, if you get to the anchor, press on up Free and Easy!

[James Malloch]

I'd agree with two 7c+s split by a good rest.

1st 7c+: Something stupid into a weird off balance v4/5, then another 7b? to the rest.

2nd 7c+: Extremely sustained on one pad edges for a long time. I found this part tricky to remember a perfect sequence on because it all looks the same!

Also, if you get to the anchor, press on up Free and Easy!

That would be the dream, but I think the groove will take long enough...
How do you even do that logistically? Two belayers/ropes? Can you chill out at the belay a lot before F&E?

[Kingy]

I'd agree with two 7c+s split by a good rest.

1st 7c+: Something stupid into a weird off balance v4/5, then another 7b? to the rest.

2nd 7c+: Extremely sustained on one pad edges for a long time. I found this part tricky to remember a perfect sequence on because it all looks the same!

Also, if you get to the anchor, press on up Free and Easy!

That would be the dream, but I think the groove will take long enough...
How do you even do that logistically? Two belayers/ropes? Can you chill out at the belay a lot before F&E?

When I did Totally Free 2, I rested a long time at the Groove belay, you can hold on with your thumb so can get a lot back. F and E still feels a lot harder on the link though! You break out right to the ledge below Breach a bolt or two before the F and E belay to prevent drag. There is a fairly healthy runout on this bit! No excuse blowing the top roof as you can stand on the ledge forever, although I must say I fell off on the first attempt on the final swarm over the barrel after the main roof, good excuse to do it all again though! You can lower off in stages if you don't have a 100m rope. It is possible with an 80m - be extremely careful though. You could potentially lower from the top of the crag to the Groove belay then untie then lower again (tie a knot in the end though!)

[Marky]

I would agree with 7c+ to the first rest then another 7c+ to the top separated by a half decent rest. I got a pretty good knee bar cammed in against my arm but it is quite core intensive - I rested here for a timed 10 minutes. I found the key was having the burly bottom bit to the first rest wired and getting a good sequence for the thin top crux. As others have said it is useful to come in from the top to work the second half which is often dry when the bottom bulge is wet. I would not start red pointing until you have both sections well dialled or it could get a bit disheartening and a shady day will help although on my successful redpoint it was a sunny day in June! Good luck.