At the risk of being obvious, go to Millstone?
Would London Wall fit the bill, or is that too hard? And I'm not sure why this isn't on the list, seems to fit the bill:
There aren't many cracks that size in the peak I'm aware of other than Insanity. As Andy says, peg cracks are pocket climbing - no more specific than limestone - still good for a general pump. You might find the odd move on Chequer's Crack, Gates of Mordor, or Tufted Crack (Ilkley) if you studiously ignore face holds and laybacking. Behemoth W-C-J reportedly has a rattley fingers section but I've not done it. I thought Bob Hope was regular sized fingers. Are there any other candidates in Lancs.? I'd focus on getting the relevant fitness without injuring yourself doing ludicrous things (Power Clubs passim), enjoy the spanking for the first week, then get on the harder stuff as you acclimatise.
I find ringlock technique easier than rattly fingers, just unsure on the stamina side of it.
I thought the Swedin Ringle was desperate. I peeled off the skin at the bottom of my thumb nail doing ring locks on it. Got nowhere close.
Quote from: nai on February 08, 2017, 07:02:20 pmAt the risk of being obvious, go to Millstone?If you can think of anything hard enough there in those sizes, please let me know
Quote from: ashtond6 on February 09, 2017, 08:50:52 amI find ringlock technique easier than rattly fingers, just unsure on the stamina side of it.Because in splitters ringlocks are easier than rattly fingers, and the feet are usually better as well. I have really big toes, so in a true splitter I sometimes have to pegboard ringlocks, still easier than loose fingers (which always require pegboarding)
What the heck is pegboarding?
I am hoping to attempt s-Shunt insanity climbed as a crack (rumored to be 5.12+/13-)
Quote from: ashtond6 on February 08, 2017, 05:48:55 pmI am hoping to attempt s-Shunt insanity climbed as a crack (rumored to be 5.12+/13-)not a chance; 10+ at the most. (maybe) I pretty much agree with Bennett on this one I'm afraid, Millstone is nothing like the Creek, the Peak in general is not that similar at all. The closest thing in the UK which springs to mind is the cracks on slate. However, if you are tied to the peak... just get savagely fit on hand cracks so you can milk all the jam rests? The Optimator itself is the most sustained ringlocking thing i can remember, I think I did all the other ones you mention, but can't remember them having massively sustained ringlocks. Way Rambo is particularly great, as is Dos Hermanos, as Grimer said.