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Wanted:Progression Fingerboard (Read 2960 times)

JDobo

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Wanted:Progression Fingerboard
February 03, 2017, 12:07:38 pm
Does anyone have a Progression Fingerboard for sale, or perhaps know where I can get one in the UK?

Cheers  :)

Three Nine

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#1 Re: Wanted:Progression Fingerboard
February 03, 2017, 12:41:53 pm
Your poor skin.

Paul B

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#2 Re: Wanted:Progression Fingerboard
February 03, 2017, 12:43:38 pm
Does anyone have a Progression Fingerboard for sale, or perhaps know where I can get one in the UK?

Cheers  :)

There's one in the Depot Manc so ask where they sourced theirs?

I agree with Three-nine, they aren't lovely to hang on and the finishing etc. could be a lot better.

shark

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#3 Re: Wanted:Progression Fingerboard
February 03, 2017, 01:04:55 pm
Probes at Crusher supplied me a similar version in wood - I forget what it was called. Its brilliant and I use it all the time whereas the beastmaker is gathering dust.

Lopez protocols aside, the graduated edges is great for a progressive warm up which I often do before going out bouldering.

Recently for repeaters I use the gradually smaller edges as I reach full recruitment and then back up the larger edges for the final sets as I get tired as an alternative to adjusting the added weight on a fixed depth edge.

JDobo

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#4 Re: Wanted:Progression Fingerboard
February 03, 2017, 01:27:18 pm
Hmm I would prefer a wooden version as it would be more skin friendly. However I can't seem to find the one that you are talking about on crusher holds site Shark. Do you mean he made it specifically for you?

shark

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#5 Re: Wanted:Progression Fingerboard
February 03, 2017, 02:41:01 pm
Hmm I would prefer a wooden version as it would be more skin friendly. However I can't seem to find the one that you are talking about on crusher holds site Shark. Do you mean he made it specifically for you?

No - it was a model he had - definitely had a name and was pre-Progression I think and called something similar. Maybe he isn't promoting it now. Drop him a PM and see whether he can make one.

Duma

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#6 Re: Wanted:Progression Fingerboard
February 03, 2017, 02:51:23 pm

Lopez protocols aside, the graduated edges is great for a progressive warm up which I often do before going out bouldering.


I occasionally use the TCA one for this (foot on) and its ok in this role, would be horrible for proper hangs though. A wooden one sounds much better.

dave

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#7 Re: Wanted:Progression Fingerboard
February 03, 2017, 03:00:16 pm
Didn't someone come up with a board not too long ago that was basically a deep wooden rung with an adjustable backboard, ie. you could screw it out to make the rung shallower.

moose

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#8 Re: Wanted:Progression Fingerboard
February 03, 2017, 03:05:34 pm
The finish on the Lopez boards is horribly rough but can easily be "comfortised" with a wire brush or sandpaper - it actually recommends you do so on the Lopez blog (or maybe it was part of the instructions it arrived with).  You have to be very careful though - I went a little too far and the texture of my board is a bit too slippy. 

I really like my board though - the more qualitative nature makes it very easy to develop and calibrate training regimens (especially when combined with weights and pulleys).  I also used it last year to do a quick graduated warm up on the morning of big RPing days at Malham and Kilnsey -  6x7/3s repeaters on the 18mm, 14mm, 12mm, and 10mm edges (maybe go lower even if feeling psyched).  Seemed to have a physcial benefit - could generally have a good burn on the route straight away, and perhaps more importantly, it was good to arrive at the crag confident my fingers had already coped with more stress than the route would present.

Probes

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#9 Re: Wanted:Progression Fingerboard
February 03, 2017, 04:01:07 pm
Hmm I would prefer a wooden version as it would be more skin friendly. However I can't seem to find the one that you are talking about on crusher holds site Shark. Do you mean he made it specifically for you?

No - it was a model he had - definitely had a name and was pre-Progression I think and called something similar. Maybe he isn't promoting it now. Drop him a PM and see whether he can make one.

This board is definitely in the pipeline, the next bit of free time and I should have one out for the public. I've a new prototype I've been using all winter based on sharks.. based on the original board i made back in 2008... just needs some fettling and good to go.
So if you're able to hang fire this could be an option for a progressive type board..

Screen shot of it...
 
« Last Edit: February 03, 2017, 04:08:57 pm by Probes »

JDobo

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#10 Re: Wanted:Progression Fingerboard
February 03, 2017, 04:23:16 pm
That looks really good actually! I don't suppose you need anyone to test out prototypes :P

I might hold out for this depending on the time frame. What size edges are you thinking of putting on it?

 

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