Talking to Steve Dunning at the Depot a lot of the newcomers seemed surprised that a. people climbed outside b. would want to and c. would travel the world to do so.
The future of British climbing is indoors. What it lacks (other than the Schoolroom) is set problems/routes that never change, that would be as memorable a 'tick' as if it were an outdoor climb.
I assume the holds in the School Room don't get cleaned/changed. Is this because they are predominantly wooden?
If using resin holds, would these need to be changed/cleaned?And how would you mitigate for cleaning of holds!?
Would the grade change by the number of attempts/ascents since last cleansing!?
Am I taking this far too seriously?
What you've got to remember is some walls already have permanent testpieces. There are some features-only problems on the Foundry, and old bendcrete walls like Eldon Square in newcastle are 99% permanent problems. These don't need climbing they just stay up and nobody expects them to be like they were brand new
If only someone could come up with a standard template for a bouldering wall, and use the same set of holds and document a set of problems online so everyone could try them and claim they are all undergraded.
Quote from: SA Chris on January 27, 2017, 11:16:49 amIf only someone could come up with a standard template for a bouldering wall, and use the same set of holds and document a set of problems online so everyone could try them and claim they are all undergraded.Isn't that a moon board
people will laugh at the idea of walls as primarily training facilities
If using resin holds, would these need to be changed/cleaned?And how would you mitigate for cleaning of holds!?Would the grade change by the number of attempts/ascents since last cleansing!?
Quote from: Bonjoy on January 27, 2017, 01:20:45 pmpeople will laugh at the idea of walls as primarily training facilities Walls are primarily entertainment facilities, any coincidental value they might have for training is already very secondary.
Quote from: fatneck on January 27, 2017, 10:59:15 amIf using resin holds, would these need to be changed/cleaned?And how would you mitigate for cleaning of holds!?Would the grade change by the number of attempts/ascents since last cleansing!?I can't see the lifespan of heavily climbed on resin being much of a problem compared to the lifespan of heavily climbed on limestone, and with resin it's a lot easier to do something about it.
Quote from: Mark Lloyd on January 27, 2017, 02:03:17 pmQuote from: SA Chris on January 27, 2017, 11:16:49 amIf only someone could come up with a standard template for a bouldering wall, and use the same set of holds and document a set of problems online so everyone could try them and claim they are all undergraded.Isn't that a moon boardThat was the joke
Quote from: SA Chris on January 27, 2017, 11:16:49 amIf only someone could come up with a standard template for a bouldering wall, and use the same set of holds and document a set of problems online so everyone could try them and claim they are all undergraded.Isn't that a moon boardDid the Climbing works have a replica of west side story once, maybe they could continue with the theme andhave a boulder of the month, a replica of a classic problem
Yes!! Loved Broughton wall on the few occasions I have been able to visit... Is it still going?
Quote from: fatneck on January 30, 2017, 11:25:22 amYes!! Loved Broughton wall on the few occasions I have been able to visit... Is it still going?No, the council shut and sold the building a couple of years ago.
Quote from: Mark Lloyd on January 27, 2017, 02:03:17 pmQuote from: SA Chris on January 27, 2017, 11:16:49 amIf only someone could come up with a standard template for a bouldering wall, and use the same set of holds and document a set of problems online so everyone could try them and claim they are all undergraded.Isn't that a moon boardDid the Climbing works have a replica of west side story once, maybe they could continue with the theme andhave a boulder of the month, a replica of a classic problemBack in 2007 The Westway did this, with not replicas but attempts to get close as possible to the moves and style of (from memory) Peak classics like Strawberries, Trackside and Deliverance. Needless to say that despite being able to do laps on Trackside at Curbar, I got totally shut down by the indoor "equivalent".