[tomtom]

Evening all, baby in bed so time to log this weeks entry...

M: Drive to London for funeral things for Brother in law..

Tu: Funeral service - very nice, c.300 people there, good reception/booze up afterwards... helped set up and clear up etc.. Sadly that night Grandfather in law passed away too... (had been in hospital..)

We: Family Crematorium shizzle.. Drive back from London - including dropping off relative in Glossop.. Long Day.

Th: NEEDED to get out, but SHITE conditions... damn you drizzle and murk... went to the Depot instead and was rubbish. Creaky, unconnected. Lasted about 90 min including as many time wasting conversations as possible... Kitten weak...

Fr: Break in the clag Manchester side - zipped up to Brownstone... was a bit warm, and faffed around on Unjust eliminates but too warm to hang slopers well.. moved along to Colt (7C) at R-Mans suggestion. Its a pretty cool problem, that seems to climb alot like West Side Story.. sidepulls, flicks, fairly crap hand holds, body position important etc.. Anyway, it took me a while to get off the ground, but it was great to be outside...

Sa: Day out with friends at Alderley Edge... great late lunch at the Wizzard...

Su: Back to Brownstones.. overcast, the odd snowflake - 1 degree.. good conditions. Took a while to get warmed up, then got Unpinched (the 7A+ / V7 eliminate of Unjust) with no lanky cheat manoeuvres.. Moved along to Colt and made progress - working out some micro beta for how to hold a fairly shitty crimp/sidepull...

May be of some interest - but logged pulse during an outdoor session for first time today. Mainly as above, working the 7C so trying quite hard..

[the_dom]

I've had better weeks of training, but it could have been worse..

Mon: Deadlifts at lunch, followed by bouldering in the evening.

Tues: 30 min home metcon

Wed: Short hangboard session - repeaters. My first since my injury. Made it through, but it wasn't pretty.

Thurs: Deadlifts at lunch, followed by bouldering in the evening.

Fri: 40 mins walking on the treadmill, listening to podcasts. 

Sat: Sick in bed all day. Allllll dayyyy. Couldn't even face food.

Sun: Felt better - 90 mins of wiped out bouldering in the heat, followed by (light) deadlifts and (weak) deadhangs.

On the plus side, one step closer to a Peak trip in late March.

[fried]

Meh, 3 days off with dodgy shoulder

Th - Indoors, shoulder not good, did stuff that didn't bother it too much.
Fr - Rest
Sa - Rest
Su - Planned to go outside, nice sunny, bit cold for me but ... still achey, got a shoulder massage. Fitted a new pulsating shower head, blasted it with that too.

Not working tomorrow and connies looks good, preferred a day extra of rest. Meh for the week.

[nai]

2017 goals - be the best I can be.

Mon -
AM - Yoga class.
PM - 3x10 LI AeroCap

Tue
AM - AeroPow on autobelays, pretty good session.
PM - shoulder weights/rehab
Eve - 30 mins home yoga

Wed - 1 hour home yoga

Thu -
Wave bouldering, new L2 set seems to have a number of problems with long/stopper moves. Twats.
HI AeroCap on autobelays.

Fri - AM another painful Massage. Loads of new knots and tightness, suggested that I spend longer warming up and down a bit more thoroughly.

PM & Eve home yoga sessions, about 1:30 in total

Sat - not quite as sore as usual.  Nothing but lots of stretches.

Sun
AM - dropped daughter off at a party in Heeley, raced to Foundry, hour on wave - worked out a few more L2s - collected from party, back home for AnCap.  Fingers surprisingly unprepared for the board so had to rewarm up to adjust the fingeryness then got on with it.  Decent session. some good scraps in the 3rd set.
Lots of stretches and foam rolling.
 

[TobyD]

A fairly shitty week, in which i spent far too much time in the Northern General because of some deranged blood test results. Extremely traumatic experience for reasons i won't elaborate on too much, but managed to pack in a bit of activity, feeling way fitter on routes by the end of the week; able to manage 5 laps of a route I found hard to do once initially.

Mon turbo trainer 30 min intervals in the evening
Tue relaxed routes in the Foundry
Wed routes Foundry; had to go to hospital
Thu 30 minutes turbo intervals before dawn, and early trip to hospital
Fri FA; I walked the perimeter of the Northern General a couple of times but basically spent the day in hospital
Sat In hospital most of the day... finally out! Foundry late afternoon; 30 routes
Sun 20 minute turbo morning, Foundry in the day; packing stuff for a week of relaxing and escaping it all in Mallorca (and hopefully some road biking, if its stopped snowing.) Plenty of books packed as insurance (as well as actual insurance).

[duncan]

Commiserations Toby, hope neither insurance is needed in Mallorca.

STG: Rehab. elbow, shoulder.
MTG: tbc
LTG: 7b+. E5. Tempi Moderni August 2017 + one other long, hard and free

M - 30 mins. step-ups. 8km walk.
T - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.
W - Shoulder rehab. exercises. 8km brisk walk.
T - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Finger board lifting: half crimp and drags (30kg), Left hand only. 8km walk.
F - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.
S - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises. 3km slow walk through an expensive bit of central London.
S - 30 mins. step-ups. 10km brisk walk.

Elbow a bit better, not sure when I'm climbing again, still on for the sharkathon.

[Muenchener]

STG: Re-plan spring sport targets given Spain climbing partner fail.
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

M: Half hour shoulder rehab & mobility

T:   Had planned to go to Boulderwelt with M jnr but he has pulled a muscle in his leg sliding around in the snow. So instead - inspired by last week's lattice board discussions - went to Thalkirchen, did a 40 minute bouldering warm-up then a benchmarking session of feet-on campusing. Absolute numbers clearly not comparable with a lattice board since it wasn't one, but I get the impression from hints that have been dropped that the shape of the curve isn't wildly terrible: 62-46-52-41-26-24-26.
Clearly not trying hard enough on the last but one set though.

W: Half an hour shoulder rehab

T: Beastmaker max hangs. A few maintenance sets in the morning before work, in the hope that I can fit this in as an extra training session and still be recovered sufficiently for routes at the wall tomorrow evening. Mini-benchmark single hang to failure @ bodyweight on medium campus rung: 38 seconds. 13% improvement over my previous best on this (summer 2015) yyfy.

F: Wall, Gilching. Ten routes up to 6c+ (attempts) Dreadful conditions; minus 15 outside & the staff had closed all the ventilation, so inside was damp & clammy. Nevertheless a worthwhile evening in good company.

S: Kettlebell swings & TGUs, shoulder rehab routine.

S: Boulderwelt with M jnr. Weak. Perhaps overdid the kettlebells yesterday? Or perhaps just weaker some days than others.

[Luke Owens]

Another big week, accidently trained pinches 3 times...

M: Lunch - Max weight narrow pinch
Repeated the below for both arms, 1 min between reps
R1: 10s - 12.5kg
R2: 10s - 15kg
R3: 10s - 17.5kg
R4: 10s - 20kg
R5: 10s - 20kg
R6: 10s - 20kg
2 mins rest then: 22kg - RH: 7s, LH - 10s
(~6hrs)

T: Lunch - 50 Crunches (+5kg)
30 Side plank raises (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
5 Leg raises to bar
3 x 10 Dorsal raises (+5kg)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
3 x 10 Knee raises
50 Crunches (+5kg)
Couple of one arm lock offs on the bar on each arm

Eve - Boardroom: 2 x 8min on 2min off LI-AeroCap

Deadhangs - 3 x 10s - 30' Slopers
2 x 8s - 3 finger open-hand (20mm edge)
2 x 8s - Half crimp (Large campus rung 25-30mm edge)

Moonboard - Back on this after it injured me just over a month ago, spoke to a few mates who are open handed beasts and raved about not crimping, inspiring stuff. Tried various pinchy/open 6C's and 6B+'s open handed. Counter intuitive for me to climb like this. Managed a 6B+ completely open, really happy with that.

AnCap - 11 reps x 13 moves (1:30 mins rest between reps)
Powered out on move 11 of reps 9 & 10 and move 9 of rep 11, seriously powered out.

2 x 6min on 2min off LI-AeroCap
(~4.5hrs...)

W: Lunch - Max weight narrow pinch
Repeated the below for both arms, 1 min between reps
R1: 10s - 12.5kg
R2: 10s - 15kg
R3: 10s - 17.5kg
R4: 10s - 20kg
R5: 10s - 21kg
R6: 10s - 23kg
(~7hrs)

T: Lunch - 50 Crunches (+5kg)
30 Side plank raises (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
10 Knee raises
3 x 10 Dorsal raises (+5kg)
5 x 5sec L-hangs
10 Knee raises
50 Crunches (+5kg)
(~7hrs)

F: Lunch - Max weight narrow pinch
Repeated the below for both arms, 1 min between reps
R1: 10s - 12.5kg
R2: 10s - 15kg
R3: 10s - 17.5kg
(Rest 3 mins)
R4: 10s - 20kg
R5: 7s - 22.5kg
R6: 10s - 22.5kg

Pulled a muscle in my neck when my form failed on one of the hangs.

Eve: Boardroom - 2 x 10min on 5min off LI-AeroCap on the Autobelay

Deadhangs:
35' Sloper - 3 x 10s
20mm edge - 3 Finger open hand - 3 x 8s
25mm edge - Half crimp - 3 x 8s
BM2K shallow (20mm?) 2f pocket - 3 x 10s
(~2mins rest between everything)

Moonboard: Tried and failed repeatedly on some 6B+'s.

10mins LI-AeroCap on the Autobelay.
(~5.5hrs)

S: Rest - Freezing cold day at the zoo with the family. (~7hrs)

S: Had planned to go bouldering on the Orme, my better half badly pulled a muscle in her neck early morning so had to stay in to look after the kids.

Eve - Deadhangs:
4 Finger Open-crimp - 20mm edge (BM2K 30mm slot with AAA batteries):
R1: 10s, R2: 10s, R3: 8s, R4: 6s
4 Finger Half Crimp - 30mm Edge:
3 x 10s
35' Slopers (nestle/cheating):
3 x 10s

My Beastmaker at home is so much harder to hand on any hold than the one at the wall...
(~7hrs)

[T_B]

M - ill
T - Lunch. Autobelays. Worked out a good intensity with 5 x lilac 6cs, then a short rest and repeat.
W – PM homeboard bouldering.
T  - PM Lattice. 98, 20 mins rest then 84, 56, 42, 28 (rest time same as preceding climbing time). Later PM run.
F – Lunch run.
S – pulled back lifting some heavy tiles out of the boot of the car. Thought I’d done it badly, but luckily it didn’t go into spasm.
S – AM run in a frosty Peak. PM homeboard.

Managed to fight off a cold from early in the week.

4th Lattice session. It’s taken me 4 sessions to get the fluidity of movement dialed. Interestingly I managed another 10 moves this week, despite being 2nd day on. Went for as many moves as possible second rep, on my 3rd rep only managed 57% of first rep. This makes sense given last week's discussion and the fact that I haven’t been doing much endurance training, nor any routes since January last year. I.e. poor Aero.

Have lost 2Kg since Xmas 

[Coops_13]

STG: Fix elbow, get fit and strong
MTG: More 7B+
LTG: 8A

M: Squash
T: Wall, fairly good session
W: 5-a-side footie
T: Wall, poor session. Couldn't get warm, super weak
F: Drive North
S: Bradley, Cocking tor and Turningstone Edge. Failed on Swinger's Party, Wicker Man, Gibbon Swing... Did some nice 6's though.
S: Gardoms North, tried Mark's roof again. Elbow started to hurt quite a bit. Tried Soft on the G also, elbow too bad so drove back to London.

Elbow not great. Got physio on Friday so hopefully they'll give me some idea what's wrong with me and some exercises to do while I'm away on my diving trip. Planning to get Swizzy booked this week so gonna work on the rehab before I go. 

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - board climbing, singles and short links on project. Extremely hard, will keep me busy for long. PE, 1/1x5, poor. Must address things with AeroCap training. Generally tired.
Tue - rest.
Wed - got home late from work, was tired, wanted to take more rest. Girlfriend asked "Why you don't train?" with a puzzled look on her face. So I did some weights.
Thu - weights warm up, dumbbell complex static; climbing class.
Fri - rest. Walked a lot, drank a lot, ate a lot.
Sat - dumbbell complex speed x2; boxing bag; boxing bag tabata. Hell on Earth. Went to a wine tasting event, then ate like there were no tomorrow. Heavy.
Sun - board climbing, overweight training after two days of eating and drinking. Singles and short links on project. Not very motivated for board project at the moment, but stuck at it. Mega hard, mega hard. Will take the whole season, it will be a nightmare. Clean PB, 66 kg!

[nai]

T  - PM Lattice. 98, 20 mins rest then 84, 56, 42, 28 (rest time same as preceding climbing time).

Went for as many moves as possible second rep, on my 3rd rep only managed 57% of first rep. This makes sense given last week's discussion and the fact that I haven’t been doing much endurance training, nor any routes since January last year. I.e. poor Aero.

But Rep 2 ( First one after your 20 minute rest) is only supposed to be 75% of Rep 1, so you should have done 73.5 moves rather than 84.  Then Rep 3 vs Rep 2 gives you your Aero score.  Not sure your score will be accurate if you went to failure in Rep 2.  Even 56 vs 73.5 would be 76% so not as bad as you think but no doubt you would have done much better with fresher arms.

[Dolly]

M Routes on autobelay at gym
T First time at the Works for about 6 years. Its very different to training at The Foundry or on my board which are the only 2 other places I train inside. Stayed as long as I could until I was battered.
W
T Gym Core. Didnt get there until 9:15 at night. Went at it hard with kettlebells and balance boards/balls doing press ups on TRXs and stuff. Hard and short
F Got up early and did loads of work stuff. Had a power nap late morning by which time the sun was out and it looked as though there might be some dry rock. Burbage North was boiling - T short and no hat weather. Warmed up a bit and fell off Scouse's problem In Plain Sight which was wet in the break ( I didnt see this until afterwards) and managed to miss both mats. Cracked my shoulder and ankle and cut my wrist. A reminder to be careful as my head only just missed a block. It hurt. Met Andy Cave and had a great couple of hours talking about football, whilst we did some climbing. Neither of us had done Hanging Wall Sitter before and it took us a good while to work out what to do before we both did it. Messed about on The Terrace for a bit. Smart fun
S I ached from the fall on Saturday.
S


Forecast for this week is OK I think  - look cold and dry even though the humidity is high according to the Met Office. Will see Shark do Dick Williams on Thursday

[T_B]

T  - PM Lattice. 98, 20 mins rest then 84, 56, 42, 28 (rest time same as preceding climbing time).

Went for as many moves as possible second rep, on my 3rd rep only managed 57% of first rep. This makes sense given last week's discussion and the fact that I haven’t been doing much endurance training, nor any routes since January last year. I.e. poor Aero.

But Rep 2 ( First one after your 20 minute rest) is only supposed to be 75% of Rep 1, so you should have done 73.5 moves rather than 84.  Then Rep 3 vs Rep 2 gives you your Aero score.  Not sure your score will be accurate if you went to failure in Rep 2.  Even 56 vs 73.5 would be 76% so not as bad as you think but no doubt you would have done much better with fresher arms.

Doh. OK, getting there. Will probs have another sess this wk.

[psborland]

M: More tired than expected after previous day's ancap workout attempt, indoor bouldering approx 1 hour then limit for 30minutes. 2x50 situps, 2x20 pressups.

T: Kettlebels for HIt . Core strength; L sits 5s / 20s rest x10rep. 40 pressups.

W: boulder then ancap . 4 x 12 move 2:30 rest  10 minutes repeat. went better than last time with new problem link. failed before end of last rep in first set and last two second set. . At some point tweaked something in my left side . maybe a strain?

Th: Climbflow routine; kettlebell heavy; warming up deadlift felt pain in side again on first light lift so left it. Shoulder antagonist with bands.

F: Aero cap ? 6 min/6 min/8min/10 min/8mins. 5 mins rest between each.

S:

S: Burbage Nth didn't do much - Drove back to BBc  general bouldering & chatting .

[filz]

M: rest
T: fb max hangs. Weak. Probably still tired from sunday
W: rings: planks, push ups, top position
T-F: nothing
S: board climbing. Setting up new problems and trying them for a couple of hours. Good session. Then dinner with friends. I Ate and drank too much
S: system. Bad session. Tired or weak or both.

[36chambers]

M: full body workout
T: 50/30 board. Managed another 50 moderate. good session. Working pinchy project.
W: ab ripper x
T: 50/30 board. Everything felt nails today. First seemingly backwards progress session of the campaign. Quick one arm hang test on the BM2K. Could easily hold the low mid rail for several seconds. Managed about 1 sec on the smallest hold. LH still considerably weaker than RH.
F:
S: (first time at the) Manchester depot with non climbing friends. Had a quick play on the 50 board. I like the small footholds. Felt reluctant to go for it at the top in case I flew off onto somebody.
S:

If I feel weak on the board again I might switch to a PE session. Maybe I'm overdue a short break from the board.
 

[measles23]

69kg

M- Nowt
T- BM2k max hangs small rungs half crimp: 10 sets mostly 40kg x 5s
W- Nowt
T- 1-armers 5 sets including 1 set of 3 on left and 2 on right
F- BM2k max hangs small rungs half crimp: 10 sets up to 40kg x 8s
S- Nowt
S- 3 hrs Stoke AW: problems up to V6, 30 min moonboard not great, 3 sets 1-armers singles, 3 sets campus board 4 to 1 drop downs, 3 sets ring dips/partial iron cross dips..

First week back at work - tired...

[Footwork]

So very almost ticked Exorcist at the cliff numerous times over the Christmas / New Year period. I was so flipping close, dropping the last move maybe 12-15 times. Had a bash on 2nd of Jan and did my A2 NNFN

Been 3 weeks and fed up of not being able to climb so will join power club again for enthusiasm.

Mon
Tues - 36 Chambers' super secret, super exclusive core gym ball work out. Weeks 1 & 2
Wed
Thurs -36 Chambers' super secret, super exclusive core gym ball work out. Weeks 1 & 2
Fri
Sat - 36 Chambers' super secret, super exclusive core gym ball work out. Weeks 1 & 2. Wiped the floor at Munchinkin. PB finishing the game on lvl29
Sun

I'll use this time to strengthen the weak chains in my body and keep up the shoulder maintenance.

[Duma]

Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June
In shape for SA next summer.

Body Audit: Shoulder okish. Middle finger LH seems to be recovering well, mummified with tape last week and no tweaks, will try reducing tape volume this week...
Sleep: pretty decent, early nights all week as trying to recover.

M: Nowt, ill. (7.5~hrs)
T: Still ill. Brief session at TCA, tried the finals problems from the weekend - surprisingly successful, managed all the womens and 2 of the three mens, got most of the 3rd too. Felt like a double win as not just ill but 2 of the problems had undercut starts which are anti style for me. Weird "teeth and brain loose in skull" feeling though when jumping down...(~7hrs)
W: Still ill. Passed motorbike theory though  Finally decided to sack work off till better. (~6.5hrs)
T: Off work, still ill, day chilling def improved things though. (~7.5hrs)
F: Feeling a lot better, but still off work, wanted to make sure I shook it off. Nipped in to TCA in afternoon, finished off last finals problem. (~7.5hrs)
S: Almost better, hanging out with daughter, took her to wall for a bimble, no training value though. (~8 hrs)
S: Nothing, stayed in all day doing lego and housework to finish recovery. (~7 hrs)

Feeling ok now, just very slight cough left. hopefully back on it this week, but going to be pretty careful as really can't be arsed with this dragging on any longer.

67kg.

[Coops_13]

Maybe I'm overdue a short break from the board.

Stop it 

[andy_e]

Maybe I'm overdue a short break from the board.

Stop it 

 

[36chambers]

Maybe I'm overdue a short break from the board.

Stop it 

stop climbing on the board or stop complaining? 

[nik at work]

T  - PM Lattice. 98, 20 mins rest then 84, 56, 42, 28 (rest time same as preceding climbing time).

Is that 98 as in two moves off the 100 that puts you in the 8c redpointing band? Or has my minimal knowledge of lattice-ology let me down?

[nai]

Apparently 

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27767.msg542694.html#msg542694

[Sasquatch]

M - Shoulder work - 30 min cardio
T - Moonboard Projects - worked all 5 projects extensively.  All went from seemingly impossible to just improbable.  Very good session and managed almost all of the moves on all of the projects.  Managed to send 1 project (easiest) at end of session.  Completely worked DL - 3x3x315#, wtd PU's 3x3x70#, TRX
W - Completely worked. 
T - Moonboard at friends instead of planned rest.  terrible session - still completely worked.  one good go on one of the projects, but otherwise total shutdown.
F - 30 min cardio shoulder work, DL, Wtd PU's
S - Routes with Wife - OS, 10 routes.  as good as I've ever done. either routes are soft, or I'm doing better than expected on end.
S - Cardio - 30 min bike

Amazing day on Tuesday, but otherwise not as planned for the week. 

[petejh]

STG: Secret winter goal - first need a winter. Likely to bail from winter goals very soon. Send existing projs at Crag X (NI), G.Orme, Gideon.
MTG: first 8b+ (Mecca), spring. Develop routes at Mega Crag X. (spring-summer). Send proj on L.Orme. (late summer)
LTG: 8c, by June 2018


M. MA. Fingerboard. 5 x 10secs with 14Kg on AAA battery-reduced BM2k large slots (to make them 20mm).
T. Moonboard. Good sesh working three 7Bs, getting close to doing two of them. 'Aero' sesh on lattice board afterwards but was too high intensity.
W. Manod drytooling crag. Put draws in and worked out moves of a new route I bolted 3 years ago but hadn't got around to doing. 30 metre pump-fest extension to an existng M9. Arms too wrecked from previous day's session to send it.
T.
F. MA.
S. Fingerboard. 5 x 10secs with 16Kg on AAA battery-reduced BM2k large slots (to make them 20mm).
S. Manod drytool crag by myself, putting bolts in on finish of another new route proj. Psyched.

(sent new route on Monday yyfy, to give a brilliant long M10)

[webbo]

Mon. Bike 68.5 miles 4 hrs 15 mins.
Tue. Shifted two builders bags of logs from the drive to log store.
Wed. Nothing. Last day in current job, offered 3 other posts. I was never this popular when I worked full time.
Thu. Looking after grandson went to Railway museum. I hope I'm not encouraging him to become a train spotter.
Fri. Board repeated some recent problems. Turbo 1 hour. Went to see about new job, yet another dysfunctional team that needs sorting.
Sat. Shopping with the missus. Board just did a load of classics.
Sun. Thirty warm up problems then repeaters 5 secs on 5 off x 5 5 sets with 36.5 lbs added.
Bike 32.92 miles 1hr 57 mins.

[Duma]

T. Moonboard. Good sesh working three 7Bs, getting close to doing two of them. 'Aero' sesh on lattice board afterwards but was too high intensity.

What were the 7B's Pete? Got a bit of psyche for the TCA moonboard atm and bee good to have some recommendations for good ones - there's so much on the app now it's getting hard to filter out the crap/ridiculously graded stuff.

[gme]

Duma

I try to do the benchmarks 1st then filter the problems by most repeats, finally look at the comments which generally say if the grade is right or not. Seems to filter out the shit and the massively under graded ones. Some of the 7bs have had 100s of ascents so should be accurate.

There is a user grade in brackets but i think most people dont upgrade stuff even if they think its worth it.

4130 different problems at the minute and going up by 20-30 per day so impossible to keep up.

There is also the ability to share lists with people on the app so Pete could create a list of problems he thinks are good and share it with you. Its really easy to do.

[Duma]

Cheers gme.

The TCA one has a tablet with its own account that's always logged in so not sure if the sharing thing or the user grades would work?

Suppose if pete or someone had a list they could share it to the TCA account?

Think you can't vote on the grade unless you log a problem, that right? logging an ascent seemed a pain so never bothered (obvs couldn't do this anyway on the TCA account)

[gme]

Logging takes seconds on the app on your phone if you have wifi. Then creates nice lists and graphs of what you have done which pleases the anal side of me. i have logged nearly 400 problems now.

It also means you can eliminate the problems you have done from the ever growing list at the press of a button so you only see stuff you have not ticked. If everyone logged and graded honestly then the whole thing would work better than it already does.

[Duma]

No doubt true (yr last sentence), makes it even more important it's quick and easy to do.

I remember logging seeming like more of a pain than it should be when I last tried, but as TCA has its own account for the tablet I haven't looked on my phone for ages. Suppose theres nothing to stop me using the TCA acc when flicking through probs, but logging ascents on mine - will have another look. Like the idea of removing stuff you've done from the list too.

Cheers for the help.

[petejh]

T. Moonboard. Good sesh working three 7Bs, getting close to doing two of them. 'Aero' sesh on lattice board afterwards but was too high intensity.

What were the 7B's Pete? Got a bit of psyche for the TCA moonboard atm and bee good to have some recommendations for good ones - there's so much on the app now it's getting hard to filter out the crap/ridiculously graded stuff.

Hi Duma. The three probs I've been trying are 'Vurt', '5 Finger Discount' and 'Mark's Favorite Problem'. Grades seem about right for a board - as in nails, way harder than 7B outside!

Agree about the logging thing - it would make the system better if people voted on the grades and added comments. Annoyingly there's no signal or wifi in the Boardroom training room so in the time it takes for me to finish my sesh and walk out the door I usually forget to log or comment. I'd defo do this if I had signal while training.

[Duma]

Thanks Pete, will look them up next time

[Luke Owens]

(sent new route on Monday yyfy, to give a brilliant long M10)

Effort Pete!

S. Fingerboard. 5 x 10secs with 16Kg on AAA battery-reduced BM2k large slots (to make them 20mm).

Can't you one arm a 20mm edge for 5 secs? If the above is with 2 arms then you're not adding enough weight beast 

[shark]

M.
T. Depot Manchester. New venue for me. Impressive. Messed about really
W. Drive back from Manchester to office and did an AnCap session on systems board
T. Eve Fingerboard
F. Climbing Unit Derby. Another new venue. Did the climbing comp. They've still not published the results - slackers 
S. Hungover. PM AnCap on systems board. Weekly shop then AeroCap on auto belay at Foundry
S. PM Foundry doing new level 2s on teh Wave and a bit of work on my gastons problem on the woodie.

Still adjusting to fulltime working and staying over in Manchester. Enjoying the job - head is spinning a lot of the time. Dietary, alcohol resolve etc has wilted. Training sessions been good. Weight static.     

[andy_e]

I can't work out if that's a photo or a live stream of you climbing.

[tomtom]

I can't work out if that's a photo or a live stream of you climbing.

Bravo :D

[petejh]

(sent new route on Monday yyfy, to give a brilliant long M10)

Effort Pete!

S. Fingerboard. 5 x 10secs with 16Kg on AAA battery-reduced BM2k large slots (to make them 20mm).

Can't you one arm a 20mm edge for 5 secs? If the above is with 2 arms then you're not adding enough weight beast 

Yeah I can. 5 secs on lefthand, 3-4 secs on righthand.

I'm in maintenance mode - just keeping the finger strength ticking over, supposed to be winter climbing but that's gone to shit because there isn't any winter.
First time I've done weighted hangs too, so I'm slowly upping the weight towards something more beefy for when I do a proper finger strength phase starting shortly.


Blatant crotch shot there btw Shark, shameless sexualisation.

[Palomides]

Bit late this week.. last week was a quieter week as predicted, after giving everything at the comp on Sunday and easing into fingerboarding

M - Rest
T - Road bike commute, evening bouldering - cut short due to feeling too tired
W - Rest
T - BM 5A routine (one set only) - small holds felt v. hard, bigger holds OK
F - Short lunch bouldering to try out resoled blancos - actually felt pretty good
S - Short outing, four easy routes in the sun at local beginners crag (mostly for climbing partner who is starting to rehab a shoulder), Works "end of year" do in the evening. Yes, I know it's mid-Jan.
S - Rest

Bit more next week. Holding off running/cycling/loads of climbing until visit to knee surgeon

[Sasquatch]

What were the 7B's Pete? Got a bit of psyche for the TCA moonboard atm and bee good to have some recommendations for good ones - there's so much on the app now it's getting hard to filter out the crap/ridiculously graded stuff.

Hi Duma. The three probs I've been trying are 'Vurt', '5 Finger Discount' and 'Mark's Favorite Problem'. Grades seem about right for a board - as in nails, way harder than 7B outside!

I thought Vurt was nails, but the other two seemed pretty reasonable. 
if you want soft, then Kemal's Var is quite good  

I've mostly thought that the more repeats, the softer it is for the grade (up to a point because of newer problems). By logging them you can do the softies, then continue working your way through the rest.  Despite doing quite a few of the 7C-8A's(including all but one of the Benchmarks), I'm still stumped on two of the 7B's with a load of repeats - I want Milk Moo Var and Melet Var.  Tried them many many times and no joy...

I wish they had dates on them.  It would help alot.

[petejh]

^ This is why the moonboard is such a brilliant idea. Three people trying an identical board problem; one in Wales, one in Sheffield and one in Alaska. Able to compare notes. 👍👍👍

[Duma]

Think milky moo var was one of the ones I did Monday sasq, will check next week when I'm back in.

[Sasquatch]

Think milky moo var was one of the ones I did Monday sasq, will check next week when I'm back in.

I struggle with the dynamic inline motion, where one hand is directly above the other.  Which is exactly milk moo... 

FWIW - I upgrade quite a bit of stuff(especially in the 6C/C+ range), but with the thought that the board should always err on the stiff side of things, rather than the soft side. 

[Duma]

Yeah mmv is def inline! Good for you upgrading stuff, some of the 6's are just stupid.

[gme]

I try to give honest grades too. Upgrade quite a lot of 6s but down grade a fair few 7s.

Evryone says grades are really hard but I don't really agree. Stiff maybe but not hard.

[Duma]

I've not found the 7's too hard on average, though sometimes variable! The lower grades do tend to be too stiff imo

[James Malloch]

I’ve had a bit of a quiet week so won’t go into too much detail of what I've done. However my finger is feeling better and I’ve managed to flash a bunch of 7a routes at the wall and start attempting some harder bouldering again which seems to be going okay too.  So from next week I’d like to start training properly and I was hoping I could get a bit of feedback on the thoughts for my current plan.

My current level sport wise is around 7a/+ onsight and 7b+ redpoint. Bouldering wise I like to think I could still tick 7A pretty fast (within a session) on something more crimpy. I’ve avoided that type of style for a while due to injury but that’s about my current strength level.

I’d like to have a good season on Yorkshire sport this year and my vague goals for the year are:

Next 2 months: Strengthen finger.
April/May onwards: Start to get back on the Yorkshire limestone and focus a bit on mileage and tick a bunch of stuff within my limit (7a/b).
June onwards: Start to get involved in some (hopefully fast) projects. 7c routes such as Tremolo which would be around my current limit.
Into the Autumn: Get on some harder things (8a) if things are going well.

So I have 4/5 months until I want to be testing myself on some projects which seems to fit well with Barrows’ training plan. Given I don’t do any specific training currently I don’t think I can go that wrong with whatever I go for, but it would be good to hear the latest thoughts. 

Barrows PDF suggests an 8 week base phase which would take me up to late March. For this, given I can fit 3 sessions in per week, I was thinking:

First 4 weeks: Strength and An Cap.
2 x deadhang sessions per week.
Initial month open handing to see how my finger gets on. Gradually increasing the weight as I go doing 10 second hangs on a beastmaker (one pad egde – not the tiny one). If this sounds okay, how many reps/sets would people recommend per session.
2 x An Cap per week.
Find a challenging 12-15 move circuit with an aim of doing one block of 8-10 reps per session.
0.5 x routes session
We generally do routes once a week so half a session of some easier routes to keep things a bit more varied followed by one of the An Cap sessions.
Bit of Areo cap at the end of each session.

Weeks 5-8
If everything is going well up the intensity.
Switch to 3x Strength (hangs or similar).
2 x Ancap but start to include campus board doing 15-20 moves on the bigger rungs (I’m terrible at campusing).
0.5 session of routes.
Bit of Areo cap at the end of each session.

Does this sound sensible? Anything that would be worth changing