UKBouldering.com

Cosmos - Albarracin (Read 2814 times)

AdamD

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 100
  • Karma: +2/-0
Cosmos - Albarracin
February 19, 2017, 11:14:55 am
Hello,

I'm off to Albarracin for the first time in April and I'm hoping to have a go at Cosmos.  :bounce:

I was wondering if anyone on here has done it and whether they can give me an idea of what looks like the crux move (the throw to the pocket from the left handed crimp/pocket?).

I can't tell from videos on youtube and vimeo whether it's a crimp or a pocket and I'd like to do some board training, to practise that type of move... ;D

Any help would be appreciated!

Richie Crouch

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1830
  • Karma: +92/-0
  • G Time
#1 Re: Cosmos - Albarracin
February 19, 2017, 01:24:23 pm
It's an awkward pocket that you can't quite fit into unless your fingers are tiny, so end up crimping the edge of. I found the roof stopped you getting a proper full crimp on, then make a weird hip swing to unleash to the jug.

If you're short and strong, you can prob get the high right foot and make it a dynamic rockover move. I'm weak and lanky, so had to try jumping from feet lower. Failed to do it in the 30 mins effort, so thought it was solid for the grade compared to zarzamora, el varano and Zatoichi which are all way easier. Would be nice to try it not in 20 deg + sun!

haydn jones

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1050
  • Karma: +96/-2
#2 Re: Cosmos - Albarracin
February 19, 2017, 11:07:05 pm
Basically try not to cut loose. I'd  recomend zombie  nation which is similar in that its a very board style problem.
Zatochi and el varano both felt easier because they are. They are 7C+ and 7C in the new guide and this still gets 8A.

haydn jones

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1050
  • Karma: +96/-2
#3 Re: Cosmos - Albarracin
February 19, 2017, 11:09:37 pm
Train your half crimp no thumb over as the roof blocks your fingers from curling into a full crimp.

AdamD

Offline
  • **
  • player
  • Posts: 100
  • Karma: +2/-0
#4 Re: Cosmos - Albarracin
February 20, 2017, 05:38:23 pm
This is fantastic info! Thank you! :clap2:

It looks like I'll be doing it dynamic then, since I'm 6ft3... :o

Does anyone also have an recommendations for problems in the mid 7's to low 8s range? The guide isn't that great! :shrug:


monkey boy

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 1196
  • Karma: +65/-0
#5 Re: Cosmos - Albarracin
February 20, 2017, 06:23:12 pm


Maybe this will give you a slightly better idea of the hold. Hit it dragged and crimp the edge, mainly on front 3 to be honest so do some chisel training too. Like Richie says depending on height you can get a high right toe, come into an intermediate and go again to the pocket. I think lots of shoulder work would be good too, saves the left hand from coming off as that move isn't that nice that way.

Good luck!

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal